94preludeguy

My only key which works in the ignition, will not work on the doors or the hatch. I could care less about the hatch lock it is only a conveinance but I need to get the doors fixed asap. I came across this on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Door-Lock-Cy...a67afb&vxp=mtr

Has anybody had experience with aftermarket lock cylinders? I wouldn't really care if I had to have two keys and $42 shipped isn't bad. Or would I be better of having the door locks rekyed for my ignition or have a new key cut for that cylinder? I also run into the chance of what if one of those locks isn't functioning correctly, then I just paid to rekey a bad lock. Which is why I'm leaning towards the new ones but just wanted to see people's experiences. I figure a lock is a lock but who knows?

Sorry if this isn't very "tech related". To throw some tech in here, my window crank handles seem to be glued to the regulators because there is no "u-clip" holding them to the door panel. Suggestions on how to remove these without ruining my regulators? I have replacement handles that are black anyways that I want to replace them with and I'd like to get new door panels at some point as well.

Last but not least, it is possible to install an alarm system still using manual locks/windows/etc. correct? I have no experience with alarm systems have never needed one in any of my cars.. until now. I'm constantly paranoid my car might get stolen so I need to beef up security.

95civiccpdx

For the $42 your gonna spend in locks I would just call the dealer and have them cut you a new key based off of your vin# chances are the ignition was replaced and that's why the key is different most likely all of the doors the hatch and the gas cap/hatch release lock are all original

94preludeguy

Thanks man, I don't know how I didn't even think of this. Spent the $13 and 45 minute drive to the dealer and my passenger door and hatch both work great! However the driver side lock won't do anything. For now I can lock the driver side from the inside and anytime I unlock the car, I'll have to do it on the passenger side and reach in to unlock it.

What is my best option now? Should I just take the driver side lock cylinder out and take it to a locksmith? If I did do this, I could go ahead and get the ignition rekeyed to match the doors and only have one key, correct? That would probably be the way to go. I thought about maybe trying to take the lock apart myself and see if I can fix it, I think I still have a few other locks with good tumblers/springs or whatever in them.

Or does anybody know if the hatch lock cylinder will work on a door? I don't really care about the hatch lock and I'm about to swap a new tailgate anyways. I'd rather have a locking door than the convenience of unlocking the hatch with a key.

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

if you took the hatch and door barrels to a locksmith im sure they could swap the barrel centers over ..problem fixed

and no the complete units cant be swapped

PerfectionIsKey

When locking your driver side door hold the "Handle" in the "Open position, like if you were opening it", hold it open then push the lock down. I have the same locking style on my honda. For the whole "Key problem" take it to your dealer and ask them if you can get a key remade for you doors. Or you can get a brand new Ignition switch and locks for your door so all 3 are universal to three. Personally i have 2 different key's so i have spare's for both.

94preludeguy

I think I would rather rekey for the OEM VIN key that I just had cut. The ignition key is worn so bad that one time when I first owned the car the key came out of the ignition while the car was running. Hasn't happened since then but I think that would be the better route.

Sorry the inside of the door locks fine. The outside lock cylinder with the new key (that was cut from the dealer for the doors/hatch) is not working. The passenger and trunk work great, driver side will not unlock from the outside if the car is locked. The driver side lock cylinder is used way more often than the other two locks so I'm sure it's just worn or something.

94preludeguy

What do you guys think of this alarm for $50? I understand I would probably have to get a few other things from DEI. I'm wanting to stay as cheap as possible yet stick with Viper/Python alarms.



Or is it worth spending 2x the amount of money and getting the 2-way system for $101?

94preludeguy

Hey guys I am really wanting to order this alarm system in the next day or two, so really hoping for some input on people who have owned/installed the Viper 350 system, thanks!

PerfectionIsKey

I'm telling you now, UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES do you go cheap with an alarm system. You either go with the best, or you might as well not buy one at all. Honda's are the #1 stolen cars, and in colardo (On average) there are between 150-200 car's stolen and over 80% of them are Honda's(I live in california, Modesto and we were #1 on the list for YEARSS now # 2 lmfao). There is no reason why you should get a cheap Alarm system when all it takes is 4 people to steal your car. 1 either using a shaved key or slim jim to get the door open, 2nd person quickly ready to slide his hand in to pop the trunk, 3rd person opening the hood and 4th waiting to clip your battery wire. This only takes 2-3 seconds and more than likely won't wake you up. This is one of the only things i am comfortable with putting a lot of money into to make sure my car is "Safer". Also, don't say it's in a garage so it's safe, because a lot of car's are stolen out of parking lots also. Just don't go with a cheap alarm system please.

94preludeguy

I'm going with a brand that everybody recommends.. I wanted to stick with Viper, Python or Clifford. I don't see how the 2-way Viper 350 is a "cheap alarm" it is the same alarm system Best Buy installs for $299... I'd probably add a poieza (sp?) alarm to one of the extra ports. By the time I order DEI actuators and other misc. parts I'll be paying over $150 for DIY... Trust me I'm not wanting to go cheap but I'm not about to spend $4-600 on an alarm that has tons of features that I can't use or don't want anyways. I don't want remote start I don't care about glass break and I don't care about trunk pop. I feel like the 2-way Viper 350 will suit my needs.

PerfectionIsKey

Okay so you don't care if someone break's your glass, steals your car and on the road clips your alarm and now you don't have a gps to find it? You don't mind spending thousands of dollar's in your car and knowing that if it get's off your property all it takes is 5 mins to a chop shop and it's gone forever? Engine, Alarm, and insurance are the top 3 things you can't go cheap on. I'm not sure if you know who Walker Wilkerson is? One of my favorite drifters not even a month ago(Just a few weeks) he has is Formula D1 car stolen. His car was behind 3-4 gates, in a trailer that was fully secured with MANY locks and low jacked to the ground and behind another fence? It took the theifs no more than an hour to get his trailer off the property. THE ONLY thing he did not put on his car was a GPS and a tracker so he can track his car. 50k+ spent in a car that he uses to make a living all over a gps. Even a 20$ track fone could have fixed that whole problem(Sticking it somewhere hidden). A little noise maker will do NOTHING to save your car they are so easy to get by it's not even funny. I'm not saying your stupid or dumb for not spending the extra money but IF YOU TRULY love your care and actually want to keep it the last thing you want to do is try and save money on an alarm and getting the washed down lower version.

94preludeguy

Glass sensors do nothing but false alarm. Sorry I don't want to wake up at 3am constantly on false alarms. Also holy **** talk about paranoia.. Lmao thieves aren't going to go through that much trouble to steal a crappy 94' Hatch vs a 100k race car. If full coverage wasn't $130 a month you bet I would retain it.

PerfectionIsKey

Hatches are the most preferred of the civics most of the time. I have a shitty *** 93 sedan that my dad just uses to go to work and they've tried stealing it 4-5 times now and one of the times they were trying to put it on a trailer. if a thief want's HE WILL GET IT. if your car to you is only worth 100$ then fine you but a 100$ alarm. All it's going to do is be a noise maker and if you get lucky enough to have a thief trigger the alarm and it's not at home, it's gone. Obviously it's not my car so you can do what you want with it. You asked for input i gave it to you.

DCRB

PerfectionIsKey has some valid points. but if you install even the 50 dollar viper correctly you'll be a lot better off than with no alarm. do a stealth install on the brain, and instead of hooking up the ignition relay kill hook it up to something else, like the ecu. so if the alarm goes off the ecu wont power up untill the alarm has been reset. i'd also install a back up battery for it. security works best in layers though, so like along with an alarm use a kill switch and a clutch pedal lock, if you're that concerned about security

94preludeguy

I've also considered putting a couple of security cameras up around the house. I just moved into my sister's house and her next door neighbors got robbed in broad daylight and had a bunch of electronics stolen. Security cameras would help deter both home and auto theft plus a 3 camera DVR system can be had pretty cheap.

If I catch anybody trying to steal the car, an alarm would be the least of their worries. They better be ready to dodge the bullets flying at them. It sits in a driveway in an alleyway with two condos right by me. There are literally 30+ cars parked through the alley, decent amount of foot traffic from residents. There are two other cars in the driveway with me, one is an 06' Audi right next to me. That would be a much more desirable yet harder car to steal.

I will eventually have the car decked out so that the only way possible to steal it would be to tow/drag it. Hopefully if I leave the car kind of "shitty" looking too most people would move on to something better. I really wish AAA offered just comprehensive instead of full coverage or nothing. I got quoted like $61 a month from Progressive for $500 deductible on comprehensive, no collision so I might just do that when my dad stops paying my Insurance for me.