Engine only runs good, Sometimes, WTF?
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Engine only runs good, Sometimes, WTF?
So this problem is haunting me for about 2 years, and its been getting a little better. So when the car is cold, its pretty good, im at 60 pretty fast. But when it warms up, its about 1/2 in power. Doesnt matter at what temp, even in -20degree weather.
When its working, the gas pedal feels really stiff, and its REALY responsive, i mean really, i can burn out and churp the tires all day, but then its like i take a sharp turn, like on off ramp, and I have to redline it to merge. Thats the weirdest part, when i take right turns, its SUPER slow, and bogs down and takes along time to reach redline in most gears.
Another thing i noticed was, I can floor it, and it just gets really loud, but when i let go of the gas, it almost chirps the tires and launches forward. So 10-30% throttle is better than 60-100%, unless i slowly ease on the gas. When i SLAM on the gas, it just bogs out, unless im in 1st.
My idle drops when im at a red light for a minute to about 500rpms, the 1st white line. While cruising at about 3000 rpms, i slam on the gas, and the pitch of the exhaust actually drops, and it gets really slow, and makes me think, Why did i just slam on the gas, i didnt pick up any speed, just made my eardrums hurt. Ive even got really pissed, and just slammed on the gas pedal, and held it there for like 2 minutes, nothing, felt as if I had 12hp, but then i released the gas and then i started moving.
Ive tried these things, and im about to paypal somebodys bitchass for a solution
3 different sets of plugs/cap/rotor
2 different plug wires
3 different fuel filters
2 different TB's
Regrounded surfaced grounds, and converted stock engine grounds to 0/1 gauge and changed Fuel pump ground (helped some)
3 different intakes and filters
2 different exhausts and headers and cats
different wheels
seafoamed it a bunch (works better when seafoam is in the system)
lots of weight reduction
removed PS/AC/and CC
new O2
Fabbed up motormounts
it really started happening after i put on my intake, and removed my rear seats, but i replaced the fuel pump wires and intake. oh and going against the wind will make it hard to go over 50mph without dropping gear.
I get REALLY low gas milleage, i got about 200 miles this tank.
Ive noticed i have better low end torque and HP, than higher now, i even tried doing vtec a few times, and it just was sloooooow.
What things do i check now? fuel pressure? thanks guys
d16y8 civic 5speed 96
When its working, the gas pedal feels really stiff, and its REALY responsive, i mean really, i can burn out and churp the tires all day, but then its like i take a sharp turn, like on off ramp, and I have to redline it to merge. Thats the weirdest part, when i take right turns, its SUPER slow, and bogs down and takes along time to reach redline in most gears.
Another thing i noticed was, I can floor it, and it just gets really loud, but when i let go of the gas, it almost chirps the tires and launches forward. So 10-30% throttle is better than 60-100%, unless i slowly ease on the gas. When i SLAM on the gas, it just bogs out, unless im in 1st.
My idle drops when im at a red light for a minute to about 500rpms, the 1st white line. While cruising at about 3000 rpms, i slam on the gas, and the pitch of the exhaust actually drops, and it gets really slow, and makes me think, Why did i just slam on the gas, i didnt pick up any speed, just made my eardrums hurt. Ive even got really pissed, and just slammed on the gas pedal, and held it there for like 2 minutes, nothing, felt as if I had 12hp, but then i released the gas and then i started moving.
Ive tried these things, and im about to paypal somebodys bitchass for a solution
3 different sets of plugs/cap/rotor
2 different plug wires
3 different fuel filters
2 different TB's
Regrounded surfaced grounds, and converted stock engine grounds to 0/1 gauge and changed Fuel pump ground (helped some)
3 different intakes and filters
2 different exhausts and headers and cats
different wheels
seafoamed it a bunch (works better when seafoam is in the system)
lots of weight reduction
removed PS/AC/and CC
new O2
Fabbed up motormounts
it really started happening after i put on my intake, and removed my rear seats, but i replaced the fuel pump wires and intake. oh and going against the wind will make it hard to go over 50mph without dropping gear.
I get REALLY low gas milleage, i got about 200 miles this tank.
Ive noticed i have better low end torque and HP, than higher now, i even tried doing vtec a few times, and it just was sloooooow.
What things do i check now? fuel pressure? thanks guys
d16y8 civic 5speed 96
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So nobody knows anything? my car stalled today infront of a car, which resulted in a 500 dollar ticket for my exhaust being to loud.
When the problem exists, the exhaust is ungodly loud, not an exhaust leak, but its wierd, almost like a leak of somesort, vaccumm, but the idle doesnt surge. When ever i take a sharp turn right, its REALL REALLY bad, to where i cannot accellerate untill i jerk to the left, and let off the gas, put it in nueteral, and start out in 1st again.
When the problem exists, the exhaust is ungodly loud, not an exhaust leak, but its wierd, almost like a leak of somesort, vaccumm, but the idle doesnt surge. When ever i take a sharp turn right, its REALL REALLY bad, to where i cannot accellerate untill i jerk to the left, and let off the gas, put it in nueteral, and start out in 1st again.
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Re: (YoungKadafi)
Have you checked your timing? Timing changes as your car warms up. If it's working well when the engine is cold it could be a timing problem. How about your timing belt? Is that aligned correctly? Another situation I have heard of with the same problems you are having were a hairline crack in the ECU. When the ECU got warm the car would run poorly. Also under G-force it would also run poorly which could explain why it happens when you turn. Check to see if your fuel line is getting pinched. Another thing is check to see if your charge system is working correctly. If your car isn't getting enough voltage it will cause your car to bog down too when the voltage gets too low. Any additional information you can provide will help trouble shoot the issue.
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Re: (TeamExtremeMike)
Thank you so much for the reply....It also seems that when my tank is really low, its a tad bit worse.
Yea both of those options seem very likely. I put a screwdriver over the injectors to see if their clicking, yes they are.
On the way to work today, it was driving PERFECTLY, untill i stopped at the gas station 30 miles into the trip, and apon restarting to car and driving off, the car seemed more raspy and sluggish like whoa!
this is what it feels like when its working perfect-
-Feels like i have low end torque
-Really really nice throttle response-reacts to my throttle position very nicely, i can burn out
-Exhaust is not as loud and raspy.
-there is no hesitations throughout the powerband
-intake doesnt gurgle at idle, and the idle is at a set 700
-I can beat ALOT of cars out there
-getting to 80mph is a very easy task
-Alot of resistance on the gas pedal, which is GOOD because the more i push down, the faster she goes.
When its not working right
-Exhaust is raspy and loud
-car will idle horribly, and stalled yesterday which resulted in a $400 ticket
-NO throttle response, i can go from 0%-100% throttle back and forth really fast, and the engine just does nothing, keeps going. I can flutter the throttle, and it doesnt really react, but the NOISE does.
-I can floor the car, and it just wont go anywhere, remains same speed, untill i let go and as im letting go...CHURP!
-I have to engage vtec just to merge on the highway.
-Throttle is very very loose, easier to floor it, no resistance, when i do floor it, not much happens but it gets really loud!!!
-Seems like its sucking in air at WOT but not igniting it.
-10% throttle is really the only thing that works, anything higher is just noise.
Wind and a hill will almost make me slow down almost 40 mph, so if i was doing 80, it will slow me down to 40 if i hold the throttle steady
I dont know if this is vaccumm, because when i do floor it, like 3 different sucking noises are heard in hte engine bay, but i have taken a bottle of water and sprayed in the engine bay...nothing.
I dont know if its an exhaust leak, because my header doesnt fit correctly on my cat.
Gas milleage is of the WORST i have seen, 180 miles to the tank. and this is driving nice- New o2 also.
I have cleaned my IACV lots of times, changed PCV valves alot
Things i have not replaced or tried.
-Checking the timing
-Distributor o-seal
-ignition coil
-IAT sensor, but have cleaned it
-Adjusting my TPS, but when i checked i THINK it read .5v- ill do .45 today
-checking compression
-leak down test
-replacing thermostat
-replacing all vaccuum lines
-pulling codes- But there is no CEL
--refilling tranny fluid
-replacing IM gasket
-my spark plug seals are bad, but cant find any, but this problem was WAY before this.
This huge problem ALL started the day i stripped my interior, so i thought it was my fuel pump ground, which was replaced, worked great for a few days, now back to DOO DOO. Only mod i had was an intake, which was done on the same day. hmm
Current mods are
Custom built intake system
4-2-1 OBX headers
resonator in place of cat
2.5" exhaust system- this helped my issue believe it or not
Custom made grounds @ 0/1 guage
stripped interior
looped coolant lines
Thanks SO MUCH
Yea both of those options seem very likely. I put a screwdriver over the injectors to see if their clicking, yes they are.
On the way to work today, it was driving PERFECTLY, untill i stopped at the gas station 30 miles into the trip, and apon restarting to car and driving off, the car seemed more raspy and sluggish like whoa!
this is what it feels like when its working perfect-
-Feels like i have low end torque
-Really really nice throttle response-reacts to my throttle position very nicely, i can burn out
-Exhaust is not as loud and raspy.
-there is no hesitations throughout the powerband
-intake doesnt gurgle at idle, and the idle is at a set 700
-I can beat ALOT of cars out there
-getting to 80mph is a very easy task
-Alot of resistance on the gas pedal, which is GOOD because the more i push down, the faster she goes.
When its not working right
-Exhaust is raspy and loud
-car will idle horribly, and stalled yesterday which resulted in a $400 ticket
-NO throttle response, i can go from 0%-100% throttle back and forth really fast, and the engine just does nothing, keeps going. I can flutter the throttle, and it doesnt really react, but the NOISE does.
-I can floor the car, and it just wont go anywhere, remains same speed, untill i let go and as im letting go...CHURP!
-I have to engage vtec just to merge on the highway.
-Throttle is very very loose, easier to floor it, no resistance, when i do floor it, not much happens but it gets really loud!!!
-Seems like its sucking in air at WOT but not igniting it.
-10% throttle is really the only thing that works, anything higher is just noise.
Wind and a hill will almost make me slow down almost 40 mph, so if i was doing 80, it will slow me down to 40 if i hold the throttle steady
I dont know if this is vaccumm, because when i do floor it, like 3 different sucking noises are heard in hte engine bay, but i have taken a bottle of water and sprayed in the engine bay...nothing.
I dont know if its an exhaust leak, because my header doesnt fit correctly on my cat.
Gas milleage is of the WORST i have seen, 180 miles to the tank. and this is driving nice- New o2 also.
I have cleaned my IACV lots of times, changed PCV valves alot
Things i have not replaced or tried.
-Checking the timing
-Distributor o-seal
-ignition coil
-IAT sensor, but have cleaned it
-Adjusting my TPS, but when i checked i THINK it read .5v- ill do .45 today
-checking compression
-leak down test
-replacing thermostat
-replacing all vaccuum lines
-pulling codes- But there is no CEL
--refilling tranny fluid
-replacing IM gasket
-my spark plug seals are bad, but cant find any, but this problem was WAY before this.
This huge problem ALL started the day i stripped my interior, so i thought it was my fuel pump ground, which was replaced, worked great for a few days, now back to DOO DOO. Only mod i had was an intake, which was done on the same day. hmm
Current mods are
Custom built intake system
4-2-1 OBX headers
resonator in place of cat
2.5" exhaust system- this helped my issue believe it or not
Custom made grounds @ 0/1 guage
stripped interior
looped coolant lines
Thanks SO MUCH
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Re: (YoungKadafi)
get your timing set,
this could even be an intermettiantly faulty/malfunctuining map sensor , either that or you have a intermittiant vacume leak somewhere throwing the map sensor off. my basis for this is due to your bad mpg consumption, it could be a dodgey ecu but i cant see a fault there returning the crap mpg you are getting, also the bad idle/poor throtle response etc point to either the tps/map sensor, or possibly a intermittiant joint in your fuel relay.
i would nip on e-bay and buy a cheap vacume gauge, hook it in permantly into the inlet manifold and make notes of the readings when the car runs correctly and when it starts playing up, if there is a large diffrance in the vacume then it could be an intermittiant leek somewhere along theose lines.
tbh unless you are prepared to write a huge list out and check every component yourself i would be tempted to have honda check it over, expensiave but looking at the gas milage the longer you leave it the more its costing you in the long run.
why are you spraying water btw? i was told to spray wd40 around (basicly on entering the engine it increases combustion and increases the revs)
this could even be an intermettiantly faulty/malfunctuining map sensor , either that or you have a intermittiant vacume leak somewhere throwing the map sensor off. my basis for this is due to your bad mpg consumption, it could be a dodgey ecu but i cant see a fault there returning the crap mpg you are getting, also the bad idle/poor throtle response etc point to either the tps/map sensor, or possibly a intermittiant joint in your fuel relay.
i would nip on e-bay and buy a cheap vacume gauge, hook it in permantly into the inlet manifold and make notes of the readings when the car runs correctly and when it starts playing up, if there is a large diffrance in the vacume then it could be an intermittiant leek somewhere along theose lines.
tbh unless you are prepared to write a huge list out and check every component yourself i would be tempted to have honda check it over, expensiave but looking at the gas milage the longer you leave it the more its costing you in the long run.
why are you spraying water btw? i was told to spray wd40 around (basicly on entering the engine it increases combustion and increases the revs)
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#8
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Re: Engine only runs good, Sometimes, WTF? (jdmboi86)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmboi86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VTEC requires 91 or higher </TD></TR></TABLE>
D16Y8 engines only require 87 octane as per the Honda manual.
D16Y8 engines only require 87 octane as per the Honda manual.
#9
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Re: Engine only runs good, Sometimes, WTF? (jdmboi86)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmboi86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VTEC requires 91 or higher </TD></TR></TABLE>
not true
Are you sure the gas pedal resistance change isn't just in your head? The amount of resistance on the pedal is from your throttle plate which should be constant no matter how the car is running, unless you have a bad throttle cable, or your tps is sticking.
not true
Are you sure the gas pedal resistance change isn't just in your head? The amount of resistance on the pedal is from your throttle plate which should be constant no matter how the car is running, unless you have a bad throttle cable, or your tps is sticking.
#10
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Re: Engine only runs good, Sometimes, WTF? (IHateJDM)
same problem here with gas pedal resistance. sometimes its stiffer and sometimes its softer. i can also feel the power difference
#11
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not in my head at all, its a night and HUGE day difference. Well today i was driving home, and decided to blast my heat on full. The pedal became stiff, and throttle response was a tad bit higher, could it be something related to coolant?
im going to check everfything you guys posted. How much does honda charge.
im going to check everfything you guys posted. How much does honda charge.
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would the resistance have something to do with a vaccum leak or fuel? when its having a leak, the pressure wouldnt be so high, since its pulling air from the leak.
Pretty much it feels like its not converting the air into power, just sucking it in and throwing it nowhere, also feels like there is no intake on there, so no "back pressure" on the intake side. When its working right, it feels like its sucking in air, and converting it to power based off my throttle position
Pretty much it feels like its not converting the air into power, just sucking it in and throwing it nowhere, also feels like there is no intake on there, so no "back pressure" on the intake side. When its working right, it feels like its sucking in air, and converting it to power based off my throttle position
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Re: Engine only runs good, Sometimes, WTF? (YoungKadafi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
not true
Are you sure the gas pedal resistance change isn't just in your head? The amount of resistance on the pedal is from your throttle plate which should be constant no matter how the car is running, unless you have a bad throttle cable, or your tps is sticking.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its kool i only use 91 on my z6 or can i run 89 i got no owner book
not true
Are you sure the gas pedal resistance change isn't just in your head? The amount of resistance on the pedal is from your throttle plate which should be constant no matter how the car is running, unless you have a bad throttle cable, or your tps is sticking.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its kool i only use 91 on my z6 or can i run 89 i got no owner book
#14
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Re: Engine only runs good, Sometimes, WTF? (jdmboi86)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmboi86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
its kool i only use 91 on my z6 or can i run 89 i got no owner book </TD></TR></TABLE>
you're safe on 89. the compression isn't that high on a z6.
its kool i only use 91 on my z6 or can i run 89 i got no owner book </TD></TR></TABLE>
you're safe on 89. the compression isn't that high on a z6.
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well today and last night, seems like some thing blew or somthing, im thinking my header.
NO POWER what so ever. I can flutter my throttle from 0-100% over and over again with NO response, just noise. Flooring it will do NOTHING. God it feels like im pulling a bud behind me, im almost better off letting the wind blow me and leaving it in nuetural.
When i start it up now, its this really really loud low ruble in the engine, ****.
NO POWER what so ever. I can flutter my throttle from 0-100% over and over again with NO response, just noise. Flooring it will do NOTHING. God it feels like im pulling a bud behind me, im almost better off letting the wind blow me and leaving it in nuetural.
When i start it up now, its this really really loud low ruble in the engine, ****.
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so down by my bottom end, there is a really loud rumber, kinda like a large exhaust leak....sounds like my muffler is in my engine compartment.
I cant feel anyleaks anywhere, im kinda nervious about this. I just bid on a stock 99 ex manifold, pray to god this will fit. You guys thinkin this is a leak? i did tape my whole header with aluminum tape, to seal the leak between the flange (where the 4 meets the 2)
I cant feel anyleaks anywhere, im kinda nervious about this. I just bid on a stock 99 ex manifold, pray to god this will fit. You guys thinkin this is a leak? i did tape my whole header with aluminum tape, to seal the leak between the flange (where the 4 meets the 2)
#22
Re: Engine only runs good, Sometimes, WTF? (YoungKadafi)
well all i can say is ....maybe ur clutch is goin bad.....ur fuel filter is stopped up an the car starving for fuel...ur plug wires can be in the wrong orders...if ur car has egr...could be stopped up...i forgot wat kinda car u have..check those and ...and also if ur exhaust is not the same size all the way through....from header to exhaust....ur not getting a good even flow coming out from exhaust can loose power.... check thoseout and see...
#23
Re: Engine only runs good, Sometimes, WTF? (sirsi)
yo if u can check ur o2 sensor cause....usaully if u come to a stop if ur rpm drops..u have a bad o2 sensor... its not getting accurate readins to even out ur air/fuel....
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Re: Engine only runs good, Sometimes, WTF? (sirsi)
yea, it could be my clutch, i dont think plug wires that would cause my car to idle really rough. they could be bad however. ive changed my fuel filter 5 times.
I ONLY GOT 120 miles this tank!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I ONLY GOT 120 miles this tank!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!