king29

K, so pretty much title says it all, i drive a 95 civic ex coupe,

so i wanna make Power either N/A or Turbo, my 1st QUESTION is if i should turbo my d16z6( if so) what would i need to build on the motor prior to dropping in ANY turbo kit (if NOT) then what all motor parts should i get.

my 2nd question is what would come out cheaper, option 1 & 2 or would a jdm B16B swap from jhpusa be more "bang for the buck" in the long run?

please give me advice on where i need to go to be quick, dont matter the price.



would like to know EVERYONES theory on being quick, please. thanks

king29

currently into the d16z6.... would like to know what other parts would be needed to go turbo

1- Mugen Headers
2- Act 6 puck clutch Pressure Plate
3- Act Prolite 8lb Flywheel
4- Short Ram Intake

ke98248

iTrader: (1)

TURBO BASIC FAQ:

Firstly, an exhaust manifold comes from an NA motor, so you'll need a turbo manifold. They come in many forms, Ram horn, top mount, log manifold, etc... Log manifold is by far the cheapest and it spools really quickly -- plus it's quite reliable if build right the first time. Here's what else you'll need for your car:

Turbocharger: Pick which size and trim turbo is gonna work best for your application and goals. A regular T3 turbo is usually good for 250WHP, a t3/t4 up to 400WHP, and a t4 400+ WHP... I'd recommend a ball-bearing garrett turbo, a nicely sized t3/t4 turbo, not too large or too small TRIM/AR size.

Downpipe: Again must be custom for your turbo/manifold choice. A flex pipe and o2 bung are nice to have while creating a downpipe -- although not necessary.

Wastegate: Choose a wastegate size (also what psi spring you'd like to run) according to application such as amount of air flow and psi from turbo.. This is if you have a turbo that's externally wastegate powered..

Intercooler: Choose either a FMIC (Front Mount InterCooler) or Side Mount Intercooler. FMIC is the only way to go really for efficient cooling..

Blow off valve: This is actually an optional (but very recommended part). Doesnt really matter which one you choose. Pick a sound you like. Some people like to use ebay or cheap BOV's, but if it fails, you can hurt your turbo -- so don't really cheap out.

Fuel Management: One of the most important parts on your turbocharged car. I would highly suggest running a programmable chipped ecu or standalone device. I'd suggest Hondata or Crome..

Fuel Pump : You will probably need an upgraded fuel pump to support the added fuel consumption. Can be either internal or external -- I recommended the Walbro 2550LPH hi pressure fuel pump kit from injected-performance.com on H-T's marketplace for sponsors

Injectors : To support added air induction, more fuel is need... hence bigger injectors. Buy size according to application.

Map Sensor: Stock maps can only read up to ~10.63 psi, if you plan to go higher upgrade to a 2bar or 3bar map sensor.

Intercooler Piping: You can buy a ic piping kit, but usally will always take some modification to fit your exact application.. I believe ebay has some kits that have flanges made for the greddy BOV's for around $150 shipped

Couplers/t-bolts: You will need silicone couplers to bind the two intercooler pipes together as well as t-bolts -- I don't recommend screw clamps for anything other than for your intake pipes for your custom Short Ram

Oil drain/feed lines: Every turbo needs oil, so you must buy an oil feed and drain line kit. Stainless Steel lines are HIGHLY recommended. Rubber lines will get hot and can/will burst.

Vacuum Manifold: Not required but recommended to help organize vacuum lines and allow for good vacuum sources. I'd use Golden Eagle's Vacuum manifold.

Gauges: although not required, it's highly recommend so you can keep some status of motor operation. boost/oil pressure highly recommended

Spark plugs: Although not required, turbo temps can get high, so i recommend you step down two steps colder in your spark plugs. Also copper too.. You need NGK BKR7E.. For SOHC it's: ZFR7E-11 spark plugs..

I have a bunch of helpful links I submitted to the Honda Civic/Del Sol (1992-2000) forum FAQ:

http://www.beesandgoats.com/bo....html
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_400322/tm.htm

HOW TO INSTALL THE TURBO AND EVERYTHING -- THE BEST TUTORIAL ON THE WEB: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1263795

I highly suggest reading a few!

king29

geez thats probably the best answer i coulda gotten, so then i DONT need too do any mod's too the head, or block? if im only gonna be boosting like 8-10 lbs right?

if you were too buy a turbo kit for the d16z6, where you would buy yours at?

mattyfo0z

www.go-autoworks-store.com. Fantastic company with a really cool owner and quality parts. Check out the street turbo kit, I believe it's a bit under $2,000.

When trying to figure out how much you can run on a stock block/head, you do it in how much horsepower as opposed to how much you're going to be boosting. For the d16, around ~200/220whp is the most I've seen on a completely stock block. If you want to be on the safe size, upgrading to ARP headstuds to prevent headlift (which is pretty notorious) would be a good option, but not 100% necessary.

I'd say 6-8lbs would be ideal on a stock block, which would get you anywhere from 180-200whp.

king29

sweet sweet, k so now im reading that arp headstuds would be best choice, and the smarter choice to prevent any unwanted damage to my engine, anything else i would need just to be on the SAFE side?

quick question would 3" downpipe be good? or am i straight with 2.5"?

93egSLEEPER

dont waste your money on a b16b. i would never consider then a best bang for your buck.

93egSLEEPER

always remember bigger is better with a turbo setup. a larger DP will allow the turbo to spool quicker giving you more power. IMO get a 3"

ramonjones16

With the money ur about to put into this D....you can buy a clean as GSR for 1500 on hmo and a greddy turbo conversion kit for 1100....why keep the d? Or you can build a poor mans type R....B16B is not worth the money

king29

well i mean its not gonna be an ALL out beast, its gonna be daily driven, and sometimes out on the time attack circuit track, would boost be better(d16z6), or All-Motor(GSR) for it?
i heard somewhere (not 100% sure if true) turbos get better mpg if driven right?

93egSLEEPER

if you plan on tracking it on a road course turbo probably isnt the best idea. 1 you will have no traction. 2 you will have overheating problems more then likely not being able to run it for long extended periods of time. if you want a auto x/ circuit car keep it NA. if you wanna drag it and just play around on the corners every now and then boost it.

thumper64

A B16B is still a 1.6 liter. A B18C1 would be cheaper, even if you throw a ITR/CTR intake cam on it.

king29

kk, thanks for all the info, im thinking im gonna go GSR then once its all said and done,

anyone know what would be some cheap, but very cost affective parts that i can throw on the d16z6 for now, just so i wont be the SLOWEST single cam

canteengreen

go b series u will be disapointed with the d and a na b would be alot more reliable than a turbo d

king29

does the d just not respond to mods very well then? so i should just save up my penny's and eat at micky d's dollar menu till i have enough :D

ramonjones16

The d series motor is very limited and for the money you put into a d series turbo setup you can buy a clean *** b series motor with upgraded internals and probably match the torque that you would get from the d...I have an LS swap and I plan to turbo it....they are cheap have 1 more pound of torque than the GSR and they have the best block for turboing out of all b series motors if your short on money....

king29

probably wont wanna turbo now, since egsleeper scared me with the fact that with turbo i would have no traction on the track, as far as this thread goes i'm leaning more towards time attack with my ej1

i mean yes, turbos are always fun, and builds power quick, but how much faster would it be on the circuit compared to another ej1 N/A- B-series with more hmmm whats the word..... mobility? ability to last on the track.

Bennyboy1717

boosted Ds are fun . . . besides when you pull on someone with a durdy D people aint too happy lol

Matt93eg

You can save more money by eating Ramen Noodles..they come in lots of flavors to

thumper64

throw money at a D series to make it a little faster, or save towards the B? Hmm, I would just save and focus on the B series, even if you have to build it for boost and run it NA for a while. I'm planning on doing that, just run like mid 9:1 to 10:1 compression and just stick the turbo on later when I get the last of the junk I need. Then on a long weekend put the oil and water lines on, turbo, etc. Might be safer for breaking in the engine also.

king29

hmmm, yeah your right im just gonna save for a good deal on a b-series motor to come around,

what would be good prices? like is their a certain price range, just so i dont get raped on prices, never really bought a b-series motor

Matt93eg

As you know you can piece a B-Series swap together by buying the parts individually and looking for deals or you can go online somewhere like Hmotorsonline.com and get a complete swap.

ramonjones16

Yeah but whatever you do...do not buy from passwordjdm.com their motors are way overpriced and the shipping is ridiculous.

SoCal EJ1

whats you budget, hp goal, and purpose of the car. I have a coupe and don't wanna see you **** it up, so let me know which route you want and I can help you with a lot of know-how.