XSwordFishX

When I push my car and slow to an idle my rmps tend to increase and decrease repeatedly by themselves ranging from 1000 to 2000 rmps. When I drive it runs perfectly fine. Could anyone tell me why ?

TomCat39

Can you be a little more specific on what you are doing when the idle rises? I am not sure what you mean by push your car.

And slow to an idle, is it surging just as you press the brake or does it surge also when you are just holding the brake at a full stop?

Using the brake causes a vacuum change and the car raises idle to bring the vacuum back up. Pumping your brakes will raise the idle a fair amount.

Not sure if this is the behavior which you are experiencing.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Why is following the rules so hard for people?

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...sting-3002401/

Follow the rules - Fill us in on the missing information. In the mean time, properly bleed your coolant. Park the car on an up-hill slant, remove the radiator cap, and let the car run for two cooling fan cycles, keeping the radiator topped off at all times. Should take about 10 minutes.

rice a roni

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like surging. FITV under the throttle body.

XSwordFishX

Thats the exacttttt thing Im dealing with if I push about 60 then come to a stop my rmps just go up and down with my foot on the brake ,some times the clutch too if Im lazy, then when I take it off it either starts up again (going up and down that is) or stops. I asked a guy at the parts shop I normally go to and he said a vacuum problem or something clogged I couldnt remember

XSwordFishX

Its a 93 Honda Civic Eg CX stock engine no check engine light um I did have a valve gasket leak but fixed it, the person who own my car before me tore the damn thing up. I did have a bit of a splash of water sucked into my engine a few months back, right into my exhaust system but it survived surprisingly. Thats about all it think that might be a contributor

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Bleed. Your. Coolant.

We can work from there, but that's the place you want to start.

tamboo

Former User

Also clean the IACV and post the CEL codes.

tony_2018

I believe what the OP is saying is he dogs out his car and slows down to a stop, idle speed, and that is when his rpm's are "hunting", start to fluctuate.

Any thing changed, replaced, lately?

TomCat39

Hey Swordfish, you still have been very vague.

I asked if your rpm change was either one thing or the other and you replied with "yeah that's it" but not which it was.

Another words, I asked if you wanted soup or salad and you said, that would be nice.

We still can't be sure of anything at this point.

I'm not trying to sound rude so let me try a different approach.

1) Does your rpm repeatedly go up and down when you are at a full stop and the brake is depressed? (yes/no)

1) Does your rpm repeatedly change when you run the car in neutral with the parking brake engaged and no pedals depressed? (yes/no)

If you can provide a yes or no to both of those questions, some definitive understanding can happen and we can progress instead of taking pot shots in the dark.

The reason I'm not sure it's idle surge is if you pump your brake pedal the idle will continually rise.

Now if you are saying your rpm goes up and down multiple times with only a single press of the brake pedal.... That is a problem.

XSwordFishX

Sorry about that let me clarify by saying that it does it when I come to a complete stop (no peddles depressed) not when Im pumping the break. It also doesn't do it every time I drive my car. I drive my car daily so I really cant figure out what the cause is. Sometimes when I start to drive again after my stop and then stop again the rpms might stay leveled its really strange. Blah please give me some good news !

Former User

OP --> Rather than post, act^.

Does the CEL work?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

How many times do we need to tell you to bleed your coolant before you actually do it?

For the record, this is #4. #5, if you count RonJ's quote.

TomCat39

Thanks for clarifying.

RonJ above me has quoted all the relevant advise for your situation.

If you have questions about any of the 3 procedures he quoted, please don't hesitate to ask.

Also RonJ's question about the CEL is an important question too.

XSwordFishX

Sorry ya'll Im a stubborn lady, I just wanted to make sure everyone here came to the same conclusion before I started working!!!!

XSwordFishX

And to be honest Im not to sure about my check engine light... is there anyway to see if it works at all ?

Former User

Consensus is not necessary - all are possibilities.


Turn key from off to ON(II). Does CEL turn on for 2 seconds and then turn off?

TomCat39

When you first turn the car to the on position (II) the CEL yellow/orange engine light should come on for about 2 seconds as the fuel pump primes, then turn off.

If you don't see the little yellow engine illuminate, then your bulb is quite likely burned out.

Former User

Or removed by previous owner.

XSwordFishX

OH....yea it does work...I feel stupid.... -_- lonnggg day at work excuse me

XSwordFishX

I was thinking about whether or not the reading was accurate or not, like actually working working

XSwordFishX

hahahah i feel like an idiot

TomCat39

Don't sweat it, just proves you're a fellow human being.

Since the CEL works and isn't always on... Just work the three things quoted by RonJ above and report back your findings afterwords. Or ask any questions you have before or during any of the processes.

Good luck and most of all, if at all possible have fun.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Please don't triple post. Use edit button.