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When I’m ready to lower it I’m thinking of going with Coilovers so I can choose the height that I feel safe at. I know how camber works but I don’t know how to adjust it. I understand I have to buy a camber kit but don’t know how to install it. Yes this is before I’ve done any research so I do plan on some homework. Any pointers or recommendations are welcome.
As you car sits now, even on the factory suspension, if you hit a pot hole, it looks like your wheel may hit the fender. Rolling and pulling the fenders will give you around an inch of width clearance. If you can dial in 2-4* degrees of negative camber, it might give you a bit more clearance, while still being functional. Really you are going to need some pretty high spring rates to help you out here, say at least 10k front 8k rear, to limit wheel travel.
Camber kits are just adjustable upper control arms, but you need to be careful, as front camber kits usually reduce the shock clearance (adjustable ball joints will hit the underside of the shock tower) and depending on how low you drop your car, your spring rates and the adjustable ball joint design your upper control arms may hit your shock towers on large bumps.
The bolts on this style of camber kits will hit the towers on large bumps, if you are too low and/or spring rates are too soft.
This style of control arms have a little more clearance than most other camber kits, though still less than the factory non adjustable front upper control arms.
If you want to pull these wheels off correctly (if that is a thing) you are going to want to find a professional fender roller that can give you some more fender clearance, some high quality coilovers with high spring rates, camber kits front and back and a shop that can adjust them and get your ride height/camber/toe/caster where it needs to be.
The higher the quality of dampener, the higher the spring rates you can get away with comfortably, but high end shocks/ coilovers can get pretty expensive.
Most everyone on this site praises the Koni/ Ground control set up, it is very high quality, but after you buy the spring/sleeve, top hats and shocks, you are looking at about $1000.
I am currently using BC Racing coilovers in 10k/6k and I am pretty happy with them.
Everyone has different opinions on what comfortable rates are from 8k/5k to 12k/10k etc, but intended purpose (Track only, auto cross and street, daily commuter or aesthetics etc) of the car and the quality of the damper plays a huge role in this.
A more budget friendly option for you could be progress coilovers.
Are DNA Motoring or Yonaka decent quality. I’ve heard of different products made by Yonaka but never heard of DNA. I’d prefer not to spend over $500 on coilover setup. I understand I still have to buy camber kits and other suspension pieces to make it work properly. I’m hoping there are decent options in that price range.
The "stiffness" isn't totally due to the spring rates, its partially due to shitty dampening on lowend / low quality shocks/dampeners/ coilovers....
I think the cheapest option that anyone is going to recommend to you here are the progress coilovers.
As you car sits now, even on the factory suspension, if you hit a pot hole, it looks like your wheel may hit the fender. Rolling and pulling the fenders will give you around an inch of width clearance. If you can dial in 2-4* degrees of negative camber, it might give you a bit more clearance, while still being functional. Really you are going to need some pretty high spring rates to help you out here, say at least 10k front 8k rear, to limit wheel travel.
Camber kits are just adjustable upper control arms, but you need to be careful, as front camber kits usually reduce the shock clearance (adjustable ball joints will hit the underside of the shock tower) and depending on how low you drop your car, your spring rates and the adjustable ball joint design your upper control arms may hit your shock towers on large bumps.
The bolts on this style of camber kits will hit the towers on large bumps, if you are too low and/or spring rates are too soft.
This style of control arms have a little more clearance than most other camber kits, though still less than the factory non adjustable front upper control arms.
If you want to pull these wheels off correctly (if that is a thing) you are going to want to find a professional fender roller that can give you some more fender clearance, some high quality coilovers with high spring rates, camber kits front and back and a shop that can adjust them and get your ride height/camber/toe/caster where it needs to be.
I suspect those "Truehart" front UCA's are knock offs.
Truhart uses HardRace bushings and upper ball joints and use the same under arm fastener system as the skunk2.
Getting it tinted and adding an alarm. Not a major update but I like how tint looks plus it’ll help with the heat. 5% on sunroof, back doors and windshield. 20% on front doors.
Y not do 20% all around for evenness? Personally I cant stand tint that are light up front and dark in the back. It doesnt flow well. Just my opinion.
Ya I agree. I’ve done 20% all the way around on another car and it doesn’t help block the heat as well. I did it primarily for function, aesthetics secondary. I’m telling you, it gets friggin hot!!
Good call on the alarm. Unfortunately our cars are some of the most stolen vehicles, especially once modified. Look into adding a main relay kill switch, it's easy, cheap, and adds another layer of protection. I have a full hidden 2 way alarm, kill switch, and GPS tracking on my car.
Good call on the alarm. Unfortunately our cars are some of the most stolen vehicles, especially once modified. Look into adding a main relay kill switch, it's easy, cheap, and adds another layer of protection. I have a full hidden 2 way alarm, kill switch, and GPS tracking on my car.
i have a friend with a removable steering wheel on his integra. I might go that route, too.
I’m really considering Skunk2 coilovers but I’m wondering if they’re overkill, plus a bit more than I wanted to spend. Every time I decide on a brand I’ll do more research and get more mixed reviews. I’m even considering getting Skunk2 lowering springs with matched sport shocks.
Thanks. Cool thing was, I wasn’t even looking for a civic to build when I bought this car. I just needed a car for work. Was on CL all weekend with lots of deals falling thru. Found this car literally an hour before I bought it.
Put these reverse lights on that I got from SBL since my stock ones were out, since I bought the car, just to for these not to work either. The fuse is good so I don’t know. I’ll trouble shoot later.
04-16-2018, 09:07 AM
Re: Droop’s 95 Civic Ex build
