e jay one

its in a eg hatch its the wire right under the brown one it is an uncovered peice of wire like bare wire it goes from one wire the blue one to another the brown i think.

also my car has a jumping idle goes from 800 to 1500 rpm up and down but when i mess with the wires the idle goes up to 2000 and stays there then i mess with them some more and it goes back to jumping.

e jay one

nobody know what the stock ecu wiring looks like?

ek-j

its really hard to tell by looking at a pic!

sirekhatch

looks like it was messed with....

Luserkid

Are you talking about the sheilding wire? Was the wire wrapped around the red wire and you un wrapped it?

e jay one

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you talking about the sheilding wire? Was the wire wrapped around the red wire and you un wrapped it? </TD></TR></TABLE>
no the unsheilded wire. it was exactly like it is in the pic i didnt do nothing to it. its like there is a thick wire with unsheilded wire and another sheilded wire coming out of it, the unsheilded part goes to another wire. make any sence? sorta looks ghetto rigged then again it looks like its suposed to be there cause the tape on it looks stock.

aziz93

it looks like a jumper wire that someone rigged up for vtec in a nonvtec car. could be for knock sensor, speed sensor, oil pressure, or temperature. i will look more into it tomorrow for you. cant remember how i did mine off the top of my head but i will look into it more tomorrow like i said. and since your sayin it is meesin with your idle it deff... sounds like some kinda temp.. thing beacuse your car is supposed to idle hi till it gets warm then idle down. and i belive vtec wont work unless your car is warm.

a little more info will help to. did you buy the car and it was like that? how did all this come about? you gotta help us help you! and stock wires from factory are not stripped or bare (exposed wire)

Luserkid

Could you get a better pic. Cause the wire that looks loose is the shielding wire, it wraps around certain wires to help prevent electrical interference. Looks like somenoe just unwrapped it.

B18EG6

that brown wire looks like the knock signal to me. The shielding is coming from the brown wire I take it?

YodajdmEK4

SEARCH FOR A DIAGRAM FOR UR SETUP

FLyByZTYler

Yeah that doesn't look right, take it to a shop you know has good knowledge of ECU's and wiring. And have them look at it.

aziz93

yeah find out where the red wire with blue tape is going what pin in the ecu. then find a ecu schematic (diagram) (ecu pinout). aand then look some more and see where that wire was jumped to and rejump it. it looks like it is just hanging there.

i remember when i wired up my car i had to jump a4 vtec selinoid to d6 can't remember what that is for!


this is how the order goes
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=944353

and hear is the list
OBD1
A1-INJ1 INJ1 Brown, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A2-INJ4 INJ4 Yellow, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A3-INJ2 INJ2 Red, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A4-VTS VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL, N/a
A5-INJ3 INJ3 Blue, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A6-PO2SHTC O2 sensor (heating element) Org/Wht, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A7-FLR1 fuel pump Grn/BLK, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A8-empty A7 and A8 have the same circurt, so they can be the same
A9-IACV IAC valve Blk/Blu, About 10v KOEO on Warm engine
A10-empty
A11- This is EGR Control Solenoid Valve (if the ECU has) Red, N/A
A12-FANC engine coolant temp switch Blu/red, N/A
A13-MIL MIL (check engine light) Blu/wht, N/A
A14-empty
A15-ACC (a/c compressor clutch) Red/Blu, N/A
A16-ALT C alternator Wht/Grn, N/A
A17-IAB IAB Solenoid Pink, N/A
A18- Org/Red, Transmission Control Module (A/T), N/A
A19- White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A20-PCS EVAP purge control solenoid Red/Grn, N/a
A21-ICM ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module (ICM) Output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22- *per Sander* Ignitor same as A21
A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V
A24-PG2 ground same as A23
A25-IGP2 to main relay and to gound for o Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A26-LG1 gound Blk/red, less than 1V
B1-IGP2 to pin A25 Yel/Blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, Less than 1V
B3- Orange, upshift/downshift comparative input, N/A
B4- Pink, upshift/downshift comparative input, N/A
B5-ACS a/c switch Blu/Blk, A/c input, About 5V with KOEO & A/C off; less than 1V KOER with A/C & blower on
B6-empty
B7- Light green, Park/Neutral switch (A/T), Less than 1V in Park or Neutral with KOEO; 5V in Park or neutral with KOER; Battery voltage in all other positions
B8-PSPSW PSP switch Red/Green, Power steering oil pressure switch, 0V KOEO; Battery Voltage KOER While slowly turning steering wheel
B9-STARTER SIGNAL starter signal Blue/red, Battery Voltage in the START position (clutch depressed on M/T models)
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel
B11-CYP P CYP -P Orange, CYP sensor input, N/A
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, N/A
B13-TDC P TDC -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, N/A
B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, N/A
B15-CKP P CKP -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, N/A
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, N/A

D1-VBU Back Up Power Wht/Yel, Battery positive From battery through Fuse Box, Battery Voltage at ALL times
D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times
D3-KS Knock Sensor Red/Blue, N/A
D4-SCS service check connector Brown/Wht, About 5V (M/T); About 11V (A/T)
D5-empty
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, N/A
D7-TXD/RXD (data link connector) Light Green/Red, N/A
D8-empty
D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, About 4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D10-ELD electric load detector input Grn/Blk, N/A
D11-TPS TPS Signal Red/Blk, About 0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; About 4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
D12- Wht/Blk, EGR Valve Lift sensor, About 1.2V KOEO
D13-ECT ECT sensor input Yel/Blu, About 5V KOEO (varies with temperature)
D14-PHO2S O2 sensor White, heated 02 sensor Signal, 0.4-0.5V when ignition is turned on; drops to less than 0.1V within 2 minutes
D15-IAT IAT sensor Red/Yel, Intake Air Temperature signal, .05-4.5V KOEO(Varies with temperature)
D16-VREF VREF shows BLANK on my diagram
D17-MAP Map Signal Wht/Blu, About 3V KOEO (Varies with Temperature)
D18- Light Green/Blk, Transmission Control Module (A/T Only), N/A
D19 - Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, About 5V KOEO
D20 - Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, About 5V KOEO
D21 - Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, Less than 1V
D22 - Green/Wht, Sensor ground, Less than 1V


your welcome! and you are probaly dealing with the iacv


Modified by aziz93 at 2:01 AM 9/26/2006

aziz93

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FLyByZTYler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah that doesn't look right, take it to a shop you know has good knowledge of ECU's and wiring. And have them look at it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no dont go to a shop, unless you wanna get riped off or unless you know them very well! you can do it

B18EG6

well... looking at the picture, that bare wire appears to be coming from the shield for the knock sensor.

and the wire that its going to looks like its blk/red actually.

Only so much we can help without the OP coming back into the thread!!!

e jay one

sorry i dont get on the computer much. ill get a better pic right now.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aziz93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a little more info will help to. did you buy the car and it was like that? how did all this come about? you gotta help us help you! and stock wires from factory are not stripped or bare (exposed wire)</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes i bought the car like this im definatly thinking it was rewired for vtec cause its a dx and i can tell it was swapped at one point. thanks for all the great info
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could you get a better pic. Cause the wire that looks loose is the shielding wire, it wraps around certain wires to help prevent electrical interference. Looks like somenoe just unwrapped it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yea and ill see from what wire its coming from and going to.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FLyByZTYler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah that doesn't look right, take it to a shop you know has good knowledge of ECU's and wiring. And have them look at it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you are crazy ive never taken any car of mine to the shop and never will.

aziz93

be sure to tell what ecu you have and what motor not only what motor but what year. also is the ecu chipped?

how many wires are coming out of your iacv 2 or 3

e jay one

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aziz93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">be sure to tell what ecu you have and what motor not only what motor but what year. also is the ecu chipped?

how many wires are coming out of your iacv 2 or 3</TD></TR></TABLE>
p06 virgin d15b7 95 dx. 2 wires on the iacv pics are on the way my computer is slow

e jay one

ok heres what looks iffy to me keep in mind there are a few other wires that have been cut and ghetto spliced back together im gonna solder them though.

heres the thick brown wire with the unsheilded wire and a white wire coming out of it.

heres where the unsheilded wire is going to its a black/red wire.

under the tape. looks stock to me maybe it got unwraped like luserkid said

also when i move around the unshelded wire the idle changes. im gona start sauldering see if that helps out anything.

aziz93

then pull all the wires except the stock ones if you have a d15b7 and a stock p06 then all your wires should be stock put it all as if it where stock let me go take a pic of my wire harness and then you can go from there. another thing is your ecu for a automatic or 5 speed and what is your car? not sure if that matters but it probaly does

e jay one

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aziz93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">then pull all the wires except the stock ones</TD></TR></TABLE>
what do you mean? they are all the stock ones it looks like they were cut then put back where they were stock but some ***** bag just twisted them together then taped them. what i was concerned about is the unsheilded wire.

aziz93

pm sent

aziz93

it was dark so i brightend them up if you dont figure it out be tomorrow i will take better pics. also i did not see no brown wire and all the stock wires should be tucked close together and none should be spliced into each other i belive

also is your ecu for a automatic or 5 speed and what is your car? if you dont know what the ecu is then just post the numbers on the side and i will tell you

e jay one

37820-p06-a02
740-322297

theres no cel all the wires that were cut were put back to the right color. i guess what your getting at is see if any were depined and moved right? thats gonna be a bitch but ill go through and see. oh ya all the wires were untaped. what about that unsheilded wire? leave it?

Luserkid

Thats normal, the brown wire goes to your dist. if you were to take off the brown wire you would see the silver wiring wrapped around it its so no outside interference will go through there. Although yours is blk/red (probably ran out of wire) that other wire is a ground wire. Everything looks fine for someone to unwind it. Get some electrical tape and wrap them up and youll be ok.

aziz93

is your car an auutomatic?