DIY Rear Brake Line Replacement W/ pics.
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DIY Rear Brake Line Replacement W/ pics.
Ok this was done on my 94 DX with Del sol Vtec Rear discs. But all civics are very similar.
Tools Needed:
14mm socket (for the Banjo fitting)
12mm socket (for the Support bracket)
10mm Line wrench (to remove the Hardline nut)
Food for thought:
When I did my Disc swap the Lines were cut to simplfy removal off the junk car, I then went to the honda dealer and picked up a new set of lines for 56.75 out the door. With the kit you get both lines, 4 Washers and 2 horseshoes.
Step By step Instructions:
1) Jack The rear end of the car up and place on jack stands for safety
2) Pull the wheel off, and Notice the following.
3) Here is where the Old line was removed from, Notice the Banjo bolt and the fluid purge.
This ones the Banjo Bolt
4) To Remove the line Get your 14mm Socket and Take off this Bolt
Now throw away the old 2 washers from each side and replace with the new hardware.
5) Now Take the 12mm bolt off the Brace backet behind the Caliper
6) Finally use your 10mm line wrench to remove the olny intact pc of your brake line from the hard line.
New and Old
Now your ready to replace with new ****, take a brake and drink a bud or some good ol' Captain and Coke
Now that your thirst is satisfied Lets finsih our project
If you have access to a wire wheel then use it to take off some of the grime off the Banjo bolts, if not use a wire brush just to take some of the **** off it.
Now installation is 180* backwards
1) take your new Washers and place one on the Banjo bolt, and then feed the banjo bolt thru the Banjo fitting on the Brake line and put the other washer on the other side, so that they are "sandwiching) the banjo fitting. And use that Trusty Snap on 14mm socket to tighten 'er down.
2) Feed the Line in the same way it came out, Line up the brackets off the Chassis to the one on the Brake line and replace the 12mm bolt.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/...l.jpg
3) If you can't figure this one out then you need to be slapped with a we limp noddle untill your skin brakes.
4) If your bleeding now and really are this stupid then Tighten the Hardline fitting into your new brake line.
After your all done go make another Captain and Coke and Get ready to bleed your new system.
Search the archives for this:
"Bleeding Brakes"
Hope this helps some of you newbs
Tools Needed:
14mm socket (for the Banjo fitting)
12mm socket (for the Support bracket)
10mm Line wrench (to remove the Hardline nut)
Food for thought:
When I did my Disc swap the Lines were cut to simplfy removal off the junk car, I then went to the honda dealer and picked up a new set of lines for 56.75 out the door. With the kit you get both lines, 4 Washers and 2 horseshoes.
Step By step Instructions:
1) Jack The rear end of the car up and place on jack stands for safety
2) Pull the wheel off, and Notice the following.
3) Here is where the Old line was removed from, Notice the Banjo bolt and the fluid purge.
This ones the Banjo Bolt
4) To Remove the line Get your 14mm Socket and Take off this Bolt
Now throw away the old 2 washers from each side and replace with the new hardware.
5) Now Take the 12mm bolt off the Brace backet behind the Caliper
6) Finally use your 10mm line wrench to remove the olny intact pc of your brake line from the hard line.
New and Old
Now your ready to replace with new ****, take a brake and drink a bud or some good ol' Captain and Coke
Now that your thirst is satisfied Lets finsih our project
If you have access to a wire wheel then use it to take off some of the grime off the Banjo bolts, if not use a wire brush just to take some of the **** off it.
Now installation is 180* backwards
1) take your new Washers and place one on the Banjo bolt, and then feed the banjo bolt thru the Banjo fitting on the Brake line and put the other washer on the other side, so that they are "sandwiching) the banjo fitting. And use that Trusty Snap on 14mm socket to tighten 'er down.
2) Feed the Line in the same way it came out, Line up the brackets off the Chassis to the one on the Brake line and replace the 12mm bolt.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/...l.jpg
3) If you can't figure this one out then you need to be slapped with a we limp noddle untill your skin brakes.
4) If your bleeding now and really are this stupid then Tighten the Hardline fitting into your new brake line.
After your all done go make another Captain and Coke and Get ready to bleed your new system.
Search the archives for this:
"Bleeding Brakes"
Hope this helps some of you newbs
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Re: DIY Rear Brake Line Replacement W/ pics. (jL iLLuZiOnz 9)
no clue, car doesn't run yet, will let you know I should be able to afford my Intercooler piping this week
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#8
Re: DIY Rear Brake Line Replacement W/ pics. (dat_flip)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dat_flip »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they look like stock rubber lines. Why didn't you upgrade to braided lines?</TD></TR></TABLE>
?
Your 2 OEM lines cost you $56
You could have gotten a set of (4) SS braided lines for around $100, this would have produced a little better braking performance.
But nice write up anyways...
?
Your 2 OEM lines cost you $56
You could have gotten a set of (4) SS braided lines for around $100, this would have produced a little better braking performance.
But nice write up anyways...
#9
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Re: DIY Rear Brake Line Replacement W/ pics. (Jon V)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon V »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Your 2 OEM lines cost you $56
You could have gotten a set of (4) SS braided lines for around $100, this would have produced a little better braking performance.
But nice write up anyways... </TD></TR></TABLE>
werd
Your 2 OEM lines cost you $56
You could have gotten a set of (4) SS braided lines for around $100, this would have produced a little better braking performance.
But nice write up anyways... </TD></TR></TABLE>
werd
#10
Honda-Tech Member
im a moron, can someone quickly explain to me how the brake lines work. i see there is a hole on the end of one side. i dont understand how fluid travels through taht hole?!?!
#13
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Re: (Vero)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">write up looks good, wish picks worked.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They work for me?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stripes777 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im a moron, can someone quickly explain to me how the brake lines work. i see there is a hole on the end of one side. i dont understand how fluid travels through taht hole?!?!</TD></TR></TABLE>
The brake line has a machined fitting on the one end (the "banjo" fitting). The tolerance on it is just enough that, with washers on both sides, it has a couple thousandths of an inch for fluid to come out of the one drilled hole in it and flow into the caliper through the "banjo bolt": the bolt that has two tiny holes in it and a large tunnel through the middle so the fluid has somewhere to go.
When you press the pedal, brake fluid flows through the brake line, out the pinhole in the banjo fitting, around the banjo bolt to the pinholes, through the banjo bolt into the caliper and the pressure of that fluid exchange pushes the piston into the brake pads.
Good enough?
They work for me?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stripes777 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im a moron, can someone quickly explain to me how the brake lines work. i see there is a hole on the end of one side. i dont understand how fluid travels through taht hole?!?!</TD></TR></TABLE>
The brake line has a machined fitting on the one end (the "banjo" fitting). The tolerance on it is just enough that, with washers on both sides, it has a couple thousandths of an inch for fluid to come out of the one drilled hole in it and flow into the caliper through the "banjo bolt": the bolt that has two tiny holes in it and a large tunnel through the middle so the fluid has somewhere to go.
When you press the pedal, brake fluid flows through the brake line, out the pinhole in the banjo fitting, around the banjo bolt to the pinholes, through the banjo bolt into the caliper and the pressure of that fluid exchange pushes the piston into the brake pads.
Good enough?
#14
Honda-Tech Member
thanks archidictus, jus looking at it, it never made sense to me. thanks for the explanations! now im in the market for brake upgrades for all 4 corners, SS brake lines, if anyone has for sale, holla this way
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Re: (Mario.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mario. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How the hell did you get your rear suspension to look like it has 5 miles on it?!?!?! ****** sick, please share. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ahaha foreal, that **** is hella clean.
ahaha foreal, that **** is hella clean.
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Re: (Mario.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mario. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How the hell did you get your rear suspension to look like it has 5 miles on it?!?!?! ****** sick, please share. </TD></TR></TABLE>
your kidding right?? hmmm look closer at the pics.. notice all that over spray on the disc?
your kidding right?? hmmm look closer at the pics.. notice all that over spray on the disc?
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Re: (JCracer723)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCracer723 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your kidding right?? hmmm look closer at the pics.. notice all that over spray on the disc? </TD></TR></TABLE>
So he just spray painted the suspension pieces? They look a little better than the brake system...
So he just spray painted the suspension pieces? They look a little better than the brake system...
#18
Re: (JCracer723)
Yeah, it looks like he just spray painted the **** out of it. Notice how everything is that same shade of silver, even the two screws that hold on the rotor and the cap that covers the nut where the wheel bearing is.
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Re: (_Edge.ONE)
yea high temp Aluminum, the overspray doesn't matter first time the brake clamps down what do you thinks gonna happen use youe head instead of your mouth running skills y0!
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Re: DIY Rear Brake Line Replacement W/ pics. (CivicSiRracer69)
oh and for the "Why didn't I Go SS" They were a B-Day present from my GF Plus my friend had bought a set off SS's and 3 corners leaked right thru the Braids, Good thing his mom noticed the trail of brake fluid b4 he made it on the road. Could of been a shitty situation.
#22
Re: (CivicSiRracer69)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSiRracer69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea high temp Aluminum, the overspray doesn't matter first time the brake clamps down what do you thinks gonna happen use youe head instead of your mouth running skills y0! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Foreign debris and brake pads
Foreign debris and brake pads
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Re: (Jon V)
I have a set of slotted power slots on the way it was just a way to kill time, plus if you wanna get technical If you think about a thin layer of spray paint would burn right off with lil to no FOD.
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Re: (JCracer723)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCracer723 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
your kidding right?? hmmm look closer at the pics.. notice all that over spray on the disc? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Im not looking at the disc, Im looking at the rear trailing arm, and other suspension pieces. They look clean. Im not talking about the spray painted hub.
your kidding right?? hmmm look closer at the pics.. notice all that over spray on the disc? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Im not looking at the disc, Im looking at the rear trailing arm, and other suspension pieces. They look clean. Im not talking about the spray painted hub.