hondapwred95

can someone tell me how to build some homemade cooling ducts for my brakes, pictures would also help me out, also is it expensive and worth the time to make them thanks

The Destroyer

Do you have an upgraded brake system at all?

im_out_of_it

bump

hondapwred95

some what i got powerslots and some axxis pads and i alos am going to change the fluid but i do use my brakes for scca autox and other events just dont have the oney of a upgrades brake system

hondapwred95

so can anyone help me out hear ive hear they work and they are fairly cheap and easy to make, help me please

The Destroyer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondapwred95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so can anyone help me out hear ive hear they work and they are fairly cheap and easy to make, help me please</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldnt be to worried about cooling, if you are just trying to get the most out of your breaks get good fluid and braided lines.

hondapwred95

what is the best fluid and where can i get some good prices braided lines there like over 100 arnt they?

The Destroyer

Im pretty sure there are a few FS in the sponsors section.

About the fluid, id just search what fluid people use in the auto-x forum and see how there experiences with it were.

The Destroyer

Heres a few things to look at for brake fluid.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1247464
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1135355
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=489923

hondapwred95

thanks alot for your help, has anyone ever hear of goodrigde? brake lines

menkio

hey man, it's basicly you get the duct, 5x7, 5x5, whatever, dual, single, etc.. then you get duct hose.. you want to get actualy racing duct hose instead of the dry washer stuff at home depot.. the race stuff tends to hold out a lot longer. A lot of companys sell ducts, you can get them from northwest racing for like 18 bucks a pop.



there website is http://www.northwestracing.com now as far as getting air to the back of the rotor.. thats gonna be tricky.. you can run the duct to the back but you want to get it as close to the rotor as you can.. so that your kinda on your own. You could get a 12" round aluminan sheet metal, and then put out the center, and bolt it to the hold air duct, then jb weld a 3" ring to the back, and then the hose can clamp on that.. or a freeflow system where its just point at the back of the rotor.. which won't be nearly as effective as the enlosed system.

I'm going to be doing this mod myself very soon, i'll try to do a write up and post it here for you. Any questions, feel free to shoot me a msg on aim, menkio001.

ohh yea, and fluid,

"Wilwood, EXP 600 Brake Fluid, Tested to 626 degrees F with a wet boiling point of 417 F. These numbers far exceed any DOT specs. Low moisture affinity slows the natural absorption rate of water vapor"

good stuff,

Targa250R

You don't need brake ducts for autocross.

Stinkycheezmonky

ATE Superblue works very well as brake fluid too. And before you worry about cooling stuff (which I doubt would be necessary for just autoxing in the first place), get some better brake pads, the Ultimates are sort of sporting, but build up heat fast and consequently fade fast. Look into Cobalt GT-Sports or Hawk HP+ ( http://www.cobaltfriction.com ), Carbotech Panther + or XP8. I'm more of a trackday guy than an autoxer, so my personal pad choice reflects that, but any of those should do better than Ultimates. I'm not sure if the XP8 would require warming up or not, as I haven't tried them out myself, but from what I can tell they're equivalent to GT-Sports, which do fine.

The Destroyer

Goodridge is good stuff.

menkio

less heat, longer pad life.. cost what 30 bucks to make a break duct system...

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menkio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">less heat, longer pad life.. cost what 30 bucks to make a break duct system...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You obviously don't autocross.

Mattamotor

Dude if you are fading brake in autocross especially with upgradeed pads then you have some serious issues other than cooling.

I dont fade brakes on the track with no duct work, BTW i am not very slow either the car run a low 1:12s at beaver.

To answer your question though i run ATE fluid in my car, with goodrigde line, and cobalt Gt-sports for autocross, with 15/16 master cylinder. My car problem is have to much brake.

Stinkycheezmonky

The Ultimates don't have a real high heat resistance though, keep that in mind. They can be faded with moderate to heavy street use, let alone an autox or track day (ESPECIALLY a track day).

AlpineInstaller

Don't forget that brakes need to be somewhat warmed up to function best. So if you sit there and design and install this bad *** cooling system that keeps your brakes cool to the touch AFTER THE RACE, then they won't be working as hard as they could.

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Ultimates don't have a real high heat resistance though, keep that in mind. They can be faded with moderate to heavy street use, let alone an autox or track day (ESPECIALLY a track day).</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had no fade problems at all with Ultimates at Nelson Ledges and BeaveRun with the stock brake system on my CRX. I have never come close to fading them on the street except while bedding them in. Anyone who has should probably have their license revoked.

onePOINTsix

i was going to do some ducts on my crx but after wmhm @ gingerman and no fade what so ever on carbotech panther+ pads i dont think i'm going to

Stinkycheezmonky

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had no fade problems at all with Ultimates at Nelson Ledges and BeaveRun with the stock brake system on my CRX. I have never come close to fading them on the street except while bedding them in. Anyone who has should probably have their license revoked. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe you're not using them hard enough
No way would I be able to do a track weekend on Ultimates. As further evidence, at ITR Expo '04 a buddy of mine with stock brakes on an EK hatch completely destroyed a set of Ultimates. Like, to the backing plate destroyed, and they were fresh to begin with. They're just not made with a real high heat coefficient or whatever.

Targa250R

I ran ITR Expo '04 with my CRX on Ultimates just fine. My instructor in a '99 Civic Si was also running Ultimates with no problems. Operating range is 100-900*F and critical fade temp is 1000*F. Compare that to the Cobalt GT-Sport which has the same operating range and a critical fade temp of 1050*F. By the specs, they are very similar in terms of fade resistance.

Your friend with stock brakes on an EK hatch probably also had an engine swap too, right? Extra weight + going a lot faster than the car was intended to + stock 9.5" fronts = yeah it's going to eat brakes.

AlpineInstaller

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran ITR Expo '04 with my CRX on Ultimates just fine. My instructor in a '99 Civic Si was also running Ultimates with no problems. Operating range is 100-900*F and critical fade temp is 1000*F. Compare that to the Cobalt GT-Sport which has the same operating range and a critical fade temp of 1050*F. By the specs, they are very similar in terms of fade resistance.

Your friend with stock brakes on an EK hatch probably also had an engine swap too, right? Extra weight + going a lot faster than the car was intended to + stock 9.5" fronts = yeah it's going to eat brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Also, don't forget that all these ppl who buy wheels because they look good, don't consider the weight when purchasing. The heavier the wheel, the more rotational mass there is and that means it is harder to stop.

battle951sedan

iTrader: (4)

as for the ss brake lines. these are what i have. made in canada. they are really good. fitttings are perfect. cheap but topnotch. goodridge is expensive for me

search ebay for "Stainless Steel Brake Lines"
or EK 96-00 SiR

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...97781




Modified by jdm951EK4 at 4:39 PM 7/17/2005