95delsolz6

I have a 1995 Del Sol with the d16z6 engine. I have never had any issues with this car that weren't caused by myself. I drove the car once between today and the second week of December, during this time I had to recharge my battery three times. But the battery isn't the issue, it's the distributor.

I had to go back to school today, so last night I went to make sure the car had a good charge on the battery (12.5v) and make sure it was good to go. When I tried to start the car it just kept cranking. All of my lights work, fuel pump primes, no CEL. So I took the DI cap off and found that the inner cover was a little broken, and there was white power on the cover from part of the dizzy exploding (I think.) I've included a picture of what I found.

I consulted my Del Sol Service Manual and found the ignition coil test. I tested both Primary and Secondary winding resistance and found a probable issue with the primary winding because I couldn't get a reading. The Secondary coil tested within tolerance.

From a visual inspection I would want replace the cracked peice in the upper left hand corner of the picture. But from testing the primary coil I find that I need to replace it.
Can anyone give me any feedback? Thanks for any help.

94EG8

That cracked sensor on the left is the cylinder position sensor (CYP), to get it you need to buy a new distributor housing, which is basically the case, the CYP/CKP/TDC sensors, the shaft/bearing assembly and distributor seal. The spring in the end of the coil that transfers power to the cap got messed up somehow too.

Edit that should have read case, not cause, stupid typo.

Mashimaro

iTrader: (1)

^i agree.

you're better off replacing the entire dizzy with a new one. it's probably a matter of time till the rest of the bits fail on you so this will save you a headache in the future by replacing it all at once.

94EG8

Normally I just replace whatever died as I usually have a bunch of distributor parts laying around, seems like usually one of the sensors dies, the bearing flies apart or the igniter goes bad (I don't think i've seen a coil fail even though i've heard about them going bad enough) usually though there are still some perfectly good usable parts left though so I hang on to them and then build a distributor using good parts from 2 or 3 bad ones. In this case though, I can see rust on the shaft making me think the bearing may have rusted and be ready to fly apart, and the coil is bad, so really the only thing any good is the case and the igniter, so yeah, in this case new distributor is the way to go.

95delsolz6

Looks like I'm getting a distributor. What would have caused this to happen? Just out of curiosity, where is a good place to get a distributor? I've seen a couple threads a while ago about where not to get a distributor. Thanks for your replies.

94EG8

its really hard to go wrong with OEM, for a little a little over $100 I belive majestic honda sells the housing with the CYP/TDC/CKP sensors, shaft bearing assembly and seal. This leaves you having to buy a coil, cap and rotor assuming your old igniter is still ok.

95delsolz6

I've read that d16z6 distributors are like 1 of 3 distributors that are not interchangeable with other d16 motors. Are there parts from other obd1 distributors that I can use to replace the bad parts I find in mine, the following thread for example.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-rebuild-your-distributer-using-different-model-dizzy-2441044/

94EG8

Yes, you can use the sensors, coil and igniter from any OBD1 D or B-series distributor. The shaft bearing assembly found in a D15B7/D15B8 distributor *should* be identical, look at the two side by side to make sure. D15Z1 distributors as a unit are identical btw, as are JDM SOHC Vtec ZCs and the OBD1 JDM D15B Vtec.

95delsolz6

I found an F series TD-59U distributor for $20, but I doubt I would find anything useable. F--- it, I'll just get a distributor with a warranty, because it would **** me off if in like 6 months I had to do this again. Thanks for sharing your knowledge on distributors with me, I really appreciate it.

95delsolz6

Okay bought a distributor with a 5 month warranty and installed it today. Matched the new dizzy to the same position as the old (so I wouldn't be off 180 degrees) and set the timing in the middle (where it was on the old dizzy.) I know I need a timing light to get the timing dead on, but if the distributor was the problem then it should atleast start, right?

What else should I check?

Car tries to start but won't catch. Let me know any suggestions

95delsolz6

I charged the battery all night long and it reads like it got a good charge (11.52v), but the car is a hell of a lot weaker than it was yeasterday when I tried to start it.

When I turn the ignition to the 2nd accessory right before trying to start it, everything is normal. I hear a click from the main relay, fuel pump primes, dash lights come on and then go off, ecxept for brake and door ajar.

I don't think it's the starter, because the car is trying to start. If I put the distributor 180 degrees off what kind of symptoms would I get? The belts aren't too tight, I don't have any CEL's, WTF!?

Does anyone have any advice? Can you have a bad battery that has a good charge (if that makes sense?)

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

You can't put on the dist. 180 degrees out, the key that fits into the end of the camshaft only goes in one way. Basically fool proof.

95delsolz6

That's good news, mcvtec. I have a gut feeling that it's the battery, but why would it read 11.52v and seem like <8v?

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

So the starter is actually turning the engine, but it won't start up?

95delsolz6

I kept checking the voltage on the battery and it stayed at a steady 11.52v, even after I cranked it a couple more times which should have left a noticeable difference in the voltage. So I took it to Autozone and had it checked and sure enough it had a dead cell.

After I got the battery I installed it and when I got to the 2nd Accessory and everything sounded real good, better than when the car was running. But after a few times cranking on it, still nothing. I checked the starter earlier and there was continuity in both tests.

When I do crank the engine it kind of sputters like it's trying to start. The last time I tried to start it I tried for 5 seconds straight and it still didn't catch.

I'm starting to think I really need to get my timing dialed in, as in timing light, making things dead on. Or there is something small that I'm missing.

95delsolz6

What happens if you charge your battery without disconnecting the positive terminal lead?

95delsolz6

I checked the new distributor and everything test out fine. I started messing with the timing and got it to nearly start. Any other ideas let me know.

green99civic

when you put the new distributor in what u wanna do is take the driver side wheel off and take the plastic cover panel off, then get a 27 socket i believe and take the spark plug and wire out of the number one cylinder, then turn you wrench until you get number one cylinder on top dead center compression stroke then after that put the tire back on put the plug and wire back on the number one cylinder. Then go get a timing light. Start the car up let it run until you have the motor warmed up (best way u can tell is after the radiator fan goes off) then huck the gun to the number one cylinder have the distributor on loose so u can move it forward and back. Watch the gun to see if you have it flash right on the mark in the middle. Then tighten the bolts and the timing should be good..

95delsolz6

I think I understand what you're saying, but the distributor and rotor can only go on one way. And manually turning the crankshaft pulley is what I did to get the rotor in the right position to take out the retaining screw. I would use the timing light but don't I have to be able to start the car?

Thanks for the help, anyone else?

Something else I found, when I checked the spark plugs they were soaked from the gas. I know I was cranking it a bunch, but could the injectors be giving the engine too much fuel?

green99civic

If you have been cranking it alot and it hasn't started at all its probably because you flooded the engine and you gotta let it settle for a while. Cause every time you turn the key and try to crank the engine over the injectors are pumping fuel into the engine and if it keeps cranking and no start the engine eventually ends up getting flooded with fuel that's probably why you have fuel all over them.

95delsolz6

I understand that after cranking the engine becomes flooded, I got that much.

I have no idea what is wrong with my car, because I drove it once during my winter break after I had recharged the battery. I drove it around town, stopped at 2 different places and the car started up like normal. After that I didn't use the car for a week and a half and found the battery dead again. I charged it but this time without disconnecting the positive lead and when I tried to start it the next day it wouldn't start. I kept cranking it and after 7 or so seconds of cranking the engine it all of the sudden sounded different. That's when I discovered the blown sensor in the distributor.

This is where my troubleshooting began.

I checked the compression, but it doesn't mean ---- because I did it after cranking the engine for a while. Tomorrow I plan on putting some oil in each cylinder and disconnecting the distributor before checking the compression.

I'll also check the color of the spark to tell whether it's weak or strong.

Timing will be in the middle, since that's where it was prior to this experience.

And I know I have fuel, so that about sums up my plans for Friday night.

95delsolz6

The question I really want to know is why after I charged the battery without disconnecting the positive lead and tried to start the car the next day the CYP (cylinder position sensor) exploded? Or is it just a coincidence?

green99civic

Okay it sounds like to me that you either have a bad battery or your alternator is shot and isn't charging the battery. You can test the alternator by taken a DVOM and put the positive lead on the positive cable lead on the alternator and the negative on the engine block should read 14.6 when car is on. Then if that checks out put the leads on the battery to makes sure the connection from the alternator to the batt is good and the bat should read right around 14.4 The reason that i would think why the sensor exploded is if were u live is really cold then that sometimes happens in very cold weather.

95delsolz6

The alternator does more than just charge the battery? After reading a little more about alternators I'm still unsure whether that would cause my problems. The car gets it's power from the battery, and when the engine revolves the alternator charges the battery.

"The alternator provides enough power to run all of the electronics and charge the battery"

green99civic

it sounds if you keep recharging you battery and its charged after every time the car is used then the next day its dead it sounds like something is draining it. it might be the stereo if you have an aftermarket one and subs could do it too i had to make a switch attached to my power wire from the batt cause i went through my battery over night causes it kept getting drained.