BEATurBOYS

Here's the low down...........
Its a D16Y5 ( vtec-e ) w/manual trans.

I dont want to convert to OBD1.
I have a D16Z6 head ( free find ) to put on.

Question #1.......
Can i use my D16Y5 ( OBD2 ) distributor on the D16Z6 ( OBD1 ) head without converting to OBD1?

Question # 2........
Would i be better off putting on a D16Y8 head on my D16Y5 block?

Question #3.........
Is the D16Y5 block good for boost?
(i heard that with the stock internals it can handle lots of boost)

BEATurBOYS

Im really glad no one responded to this thread.
I found out (with a little research) that the D16Y5 motor in my car is not the original motor. The D16Y5 in fact only comes in the 96-98 HX hatch back model, and not the coupe. So i guess i answered my own question about my build.

I will get rid of the motor and drop in a mini-me.
Prolly turbo it.

sharno

i dont really have an answer for your question but im pretty sure that there is no hx hatchback, i have the hx coupe with the engine you are talking about.

Jimster480

No.

There is no HX hatch. Its a Coupe. It only comes in a Coupe.
Y8 heads are bad.
It can handle about 200-220WHP max on a stock block.
A z6 head is better if you are going to boost it.
Getting rid of the motor and dropping a mini-me? A mini-me is just changing the head on your current engine.

BEATurBOYS

I gotta check shop key again. Maybe i read wrong.
Does your coupe have sunroof, power windows?

BEATurBOYS

So what head should i use?

And thanks to all for the advise.

92ehatch

its easier to put a d16y8 head on since its obd2

everyone seems to think the d16z6 head is a better option but i think they are about the same.

its the blocks on the y8's that blow (crank, oil pump, etc)

however if you plan to boost. obd1 is easier to tune.

so if you ask me its kind of a toss up

Jimster480

the Y8 head has a square/rectangle combustion chamber, and it is shorter, which increases compression, and since its small and irregularly shaped its bad for FI.

If you are staying all motor then put a Y8 head. If you are going FI then do a Z6. Or if you can find a Cam for the Y5, then thats even better, since the Y5 head has roller rockers.

BEATurBOYS

Well i took a few snap shots of the program we use at work.
( this is where i got the info about the motor from. Hope its clear enough )

this is the program. Shopkey ( i searched 1996 honda civic HX hatchback and this is he results of engine identification)


this is what it tells me.( all info is per honda motor corp.)

i probably will slap on a Y8 head and work with that.
Just till i get a B16/B18.

Jimster480

the program is wrong. Because the Hx is not a hatch, there is no HX hatch.

If you boost your D series you can easily make more power than you would have with a B series swap.

92ehatch

i did not know this.

thanks for the info.

BEATurBOYS

I have found things wrong with Motor AllData as well.
I tend to believe honda enthusiest at times.
Isnt the hatch a CX and the coupe HX?

Anyhow, so if i boost a sohc i can get more HP than a dohc?
(n/a or boosted dohc?)

protoTypeR

The HX was a coupe only and was available in 96-99 with the commonly referred too "vtec-E" and is the successor to the VX models of the 92-95 era, and the HF of the 88-91 era. I know the head featured roller rockers, but im not too aware off the performance aspects of it though, so in my opinion a decent SOHC build would be the typical D16 block with pistons, a regular MLS head gasket and a decently worked head, and a t3/t4, we did one here in Colorado that ran 12's and was a beast on the street Also a relatively cheap build as well.

suspendedHatch

The only distributor that will work on a Z6 is an OBD1, SOHC D series VTEC distributor ie JDM D15b, OBD1 ZC VTEC, D15Z1 (VX). Other distributors will seem like they bolt up but they wont allow enough adjustment to time correctly.

Y5 head on a better block (ie Y8) with a VTEC trans and with the Y5 ECU or a tuned ECU rips quite nicely. I much prefer it to any other SOHC.

Jimster480

yes the hatch is CX and the coupe is HX. But the 96-00 CX hatch is powered by a Y7. The HX Model is the only one with a Y5.
You can have more power than a Boosted DOHC aswell, but in the world of boost it depends on how much boost you are running, how big your turbo is, and who tuned it.
But you can build and boost your D series for the price of a GSR swap. And make more power than a GSR (you could have more than 2x the power, depending on turbo, amount of boost, and tune). Thats what I did, my whole build cost around $3600, and thats including swapping the car to manual and a freshly built block, weighted, balanced, honed, decked, tanked, everything. I don't regret my build at all, if I could go back and make a different choice, I would take the same route.

BEATurBOYS

Thanks to all you sohc lovers. I will stay with sohc and defintely boost.
Thanks again. OBD1 here i come.

sharno

hey sorry i havent answered back yet, i assume you have your answer by now but mine does not have sunroof but does have power windows and locks no cruise control also it has black moldings and mirrors just like the dx

Jimster480

im not sure if sunroof was an option. But the HX has about half the features of the EX. My friend had one.

BEATurBOYS

Installing my gripforce f1 stage 2 clutch today.

Thanks to all of you who post here. Your info is greatly appreciated.

Happy new year btw. I will post pics of the clutch swap. Just for the hell of it.

sharno

i love my little hx i just wish it got the mpg that i know it should be getting.

sharno

btw op did you find out if the engine was definately the y5 ?

BEATurBOYS

It is in fact a Y5.
However i have a couple of questions.
1. I have a b000 trans but the 3rd and up gears suck. Why is that?

2. Where can i get an aftermarket cam for this head?

Jimster480

i dont think anyone actually makes cams for the Y5 head, but changing it to a regular VTEC cam would negate anything you got from having a Y5, which is good low end TQ and gas mileage.

owneyboy

iTrader: (1)

(BOOO) trans for sohc's are usuallly ex or vtec models but if you said you had a y5 its a economical motor and trans so you got a super long ratio trans. Port the head until its bigger than a normal y8 head and it will flow the same was a y8 or better depending on how much you port and get a stage 1 cam with your roller rockers on the y5 power will be good till 8-9k - less friction. {according to a guy at crower}. port you oil pump and it will compensate for the 1 oiling hole in the crank. all y-series have bad oil pump and bad crank.( 1 oiling hole). or you could go with a a6/z6 crank and oil pump but it will negate your dipstick. these cranks have 2 oiling holes much better for lube... get a obd2a <-> obd1 conversion harness and get a chipped p28. dont use a stock p28 timing is 16 y-series timing is 12 degrees so you will be off half a tooth of timing from crank or actual ecu timing.

Jimster480

yes but he could leave the stock cam and then he could have low end TQ and gas mileage when hes not stepping on it. And if he puts in a cam, it doesnt automatically go to 8-9k. You need to do what you mentioned to the oil pump and you need to build the head. Its the same cast as the Y8 head and flows the same as a Y8 head. The only difference is the intake manifold and the roller rockers in the head. Also if you were to change the cam you would need to run a different ECU, and if you ran a different ECU without a change in the cam you need to set VTEC to like 2000-3000 (i forget exactly where) because that is how the stock cam is designed.