dpetro1

hey guys. did pads and rotors on my 92 hatch this morning. Everything went smoothly except the drivers side caliper was stuck pretty good. i was able to force it back so the new pads would fit. buttoned everything up hopped in to go for a little ride to seat the pads. after my first hard stop i could hear the drivers side grinding when my foot was off the pedal. went back to my apartment like 1 minute away and when i got back i saw this




these are brand new brembo blanks with hawk pads, passenger side looks fine. those grooves are fairly deep. sorry for the cell phone pics. what do you guys think

HondamanXxX

What do you mean driver side was stuck pretty good? Did you double check everything?

Preferio

Did you put the metal backing, not the friction side, of the pad towards the rotor? Trust me, I've seen people put the brake pads on backwards. How they do that, I don't know... but they did it.

slowcivic2k

If you plan on salvaging that rotor, you would have to cut it at the very least, depending on how many times it has been cut already and the severity of the gouges would determine whether or not the rotor could be cut and made true again. Around here a rotor cut costs 7 dollars and some change, and a new rotor costs like 18 from autozone, so the choice is really up to you...

forcefedferio

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Preferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you put the metal backing, not the friction side, of the pad towards the rotor? Trust me, I've seen people put the brake pads on backwards. How they do that, I don't know... but they did it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah a "master technician" at my work did that, it's ok though because i thought he was a moron before he did that.

judging by your pictures it looks like the pads are on right and you even used silicone in the right place make sure that your caliper isnt locked if you had trouble compressing it you probably have a bad caliper

pimpinblackcivic

check that the carrier is free to move too as if the sliders are stuck it would cause this...how deep are the gouges?

dpetro1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pimpinblackcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check that the carrier is free to move too as if the sliders are stuck it would cause this...how deep are the gouges?</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is what i think the problem is. when i was putting the new pads in the "carrier" or piece that moves on the caliper wont budge so i played with it a bit and it finally moved back. maybe its stuck in the back position now?? i was thinking i should lube up the slides but the looks like this.


how do i get the left one off?? there is no bolt just a weird metal piece with a little rubber thing in it

postman

is this the front or back, assuming the front. if the piston was hard to press back then you either need a new caliper or brake hose. they are tough to press back but you shouldnt have to muscle it in anyway. did you lube your slides. if not this would be causing the caliper to stick and not release once your off the brakes.

last was the wheel locked when you checked it or could the wheel spin freely.

double last possible wrong mix of pads and rotors. to hard of pad maybe

turbociviccoupe

yes they look ruined

dpetro1

the piston moved fine but the slides were hard to move. i did not lube them because i was unsure of how to get the one off. the one on the left of the pic i posted above. everything else seems fine.

does anyone know how to get the slides out so i can lube them and hopefully unstick this caliper. these are brand new rotors so im hoping i can have them turned to clean up the grooves

MidwestCivic

get new ones from autozone and lube up everything real good.
mine are the same way. except everything is hard to move, so I can hear a screetch when in reverse, and any bump I hit, its like the brake catches.

looks like something was either stuck on the pad, or pads were reversed

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

depetro1:

I am willing to bet you have a frozen caliper. The floating part of the caliper should slide back forth VERY freely on the pins when the pads are removed.

To disassemble the caliper, you don't even have to remove your brake pads. You simply remove bolt #22. Then the floating portion of the caliper will swing up and you can easily pull/slide it right out of the fixed bracket #7/17. The pin your wondering about is not actually held in by anything on the Akebono caliper. I know because I've painted and lubed my calipers several times on my CX...

dpetro1

so if i remove the pivot bolt i can take that part off and lube the slides?? or do i need to remove the pads to get to the slides?

also if i need a new caliper i will have to bleed the entire system or just the one line that i removed?

Sloshy

its either a frozen piston, or just the bolt is frozen, just check which one it is and fix it

dpetro1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sloshy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its either a frozen piston, or just the bolt is frozen, just check which one it is and fix it </TD></TR></TABLE>

piston is not frozen, possibly the slides. there are no frozen bolts they all came off fairly easily.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

You only have to bleed the wheel you removed as there is a gas-trap in the fluid line where the calipers flex hose attaches to the hard lines.

One pin (#26) is attached to the floating part of the caliper, and the other (#21/25) is attached to the fixed bracket. You might have to remove the pads to really clean everything good & inspect the pins though...

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sloshy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its either a frozen piston, or just the bolt is frozen, just check which one it is and fix it </TD></TR></TABLE>

If he had a frozen piston he would know, as the car would not be able to stop for ****...

.jdmdelsolsi.

YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK TO SEE IF UR AXELS ARE LOSE AND TIGHTEN DEM UP... BUT YOU CAN ALWAYS GET NEW ONES FOR LIK 15 BUCKS...

MidwestCivic

question, could it be the rubber dust stopper on the end of the slide pins?

seems that only those pins seen to freeze up, and the lower slide pins can move freely.

anyway to remove the cailper piston, and clean the crap out of it?

dpetro1

ok guys removed pivot bolt, pivoted caliper up. it actually looks like the caliper shims dug into the rotor. should i be able to get to another bolt at the top. #21 in the pic above. can i remove the metal piece that i showed you guys in the akebono caliper pic?? i feel like i could lube up the slides and be good to go if i can get to the other one.

i took the shims out and the little tabs were scrapped up. why would the shims have dug into the rotor like that?

dpetro1

also i reinstalled the calipers with no pads or shims and it still seems as if the rotors are draging SLIGHTLY. is it possible the the rotor is hitting the fixed caliper bracket?? maybe the rotor is slightly thicker than it should be?? just exploring all the options here

SL!M

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .jdmdelsolsi. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK TO SEE IF UR AXELS ARE LOSE AND TIGHTEN DEM UP... BUT YOU CAN ALWAYS GET NEW ONES FOR LIK 15 BUCKS...</TD></TR></TABLE>

That makes no sense. What AXLES are LOOSE and what costs 15 bucks? That is completely misleading and irrelevant.

Back to the question at hand. The caliper mounting bracket is the piece that bolts to the hub assembly and if those "slider pins" are not loose then the whole brake will be fucked up, I've had it happen. You MUST break those pins free that the caliper bolts to, and further more the rotor is hammered, turning that rotor and resurfacing it would weaken the rotor, those cuts look too deep. After reading all these posts I hope my diagnosis is of some help and someone hasn't already said it. Peace.

dpetro1

thanks for the reply. im going to see if it can be turned safely if not i can grab a new one for like 20 at autozone. im more worried about the caliper and the slider pins. the bottom one slides nicely even though it could use some lube. but the top one doesnt move at all and i dont know how to disassemble it. it doesnt have a visable bolt like the bottom is has this thing



i can pivot the caliper up and down but it doesnt slide front to back.

MidwestCivic

axles cost alot more than $15, get some autozones with free warranty, and the axles have nothing to do with the rotor.

im thinking i have the same problem with the shim/clips that hold the brake pads, sometimes it sounds like they're squeaking when I hit a bump. maybe you have them installed backwards?

SL!M

Just get rid of the shims if they are hurting more than helping. The pad will still sit properly.