donee12

I need some help! My 93 Del Sol 1.6 Si won't start. Did the following and still not starting:

Checked plugs and are like new
Compression great
All Fuses checked and ok
Replaced main relay switch (with new OEM Honda)

Even after replacing the relay I don't hear any clicks and the engine check light stays on after turning the key on.

I checked for fuel pressure by unbolting the top fitting on the fuel filter and turning the key on. NO fuel spray.

What am I missing?

Former User

Check the G101 ground attached to the thermostat housing.

Check voltages using a test light or multimeter at both top test tabs of installed 15A hood fuse 31 and 15A dash fuse 24.

donee12

Thanks RonJ.

I checked the G101 ground and it was ok. Both the 24 and 31 15A slots light up with a test light.

I thought about the fuel pump being bad but then why don't I hear clicks or why dosen't the check light go out after turning on the key. I thought the main relay was the culprit.

I would welcome any other suggestions.

Crashtestdummy

First will the engine rotate at all? If not loose battery terminal connector or ignition switch or starter. If it does rotate but still won't start check
Fuel pump, pressure regulator, and see if the distributor is loose causing the ignition timing to change.

donee12

The engine cranks fast and I have a new rotor and distributor cap. It does not have fuel pressure. My concern is that I replaced the main relay and yet when I turn on the key I hear not clicking and the check light stays on. Other than the main relay what else would cause this?

Former User

Unplug the main relay connector. In the connector, you will see (1) Yel/Wht (from fuse 31), (2) Blk/Yel (from fuse 24), and (3) Yel/Grn (to fuel pump) wire terminals.

Install a jumper wire into the free connector so that you short (1) to (3) or (2) to (3). The (2) to (3) test is done with the key in ON(II). The listen for whether the fuel pump runs. Post the results.

donee12

RonJ, When I did both jump tests I could hear the fuel pump both times.

Former User

Do you have a multimeter because the next test is to check whether the Blk wire terminal in the unplugged main relay connector has continuity to body ground.

donee12

I do have a INN-VA 3300 multimeter but not sure how to do this test. Could you please guide me. Thank

Former User

Set the meter to read resistance/Ohms (or continuity if you have that setting). Touch one meter probe the Blk wire terminal and the other meter probe to the metal frame under the dash. What is the Ohm reading? Or does the meter indicate continuity?

donee12

I just checked the black wire and got an Ohms reading of 00.6

Former User

Replug the main relay connector and then unplug ECU connectors A and B. With the key in ON(II), do you measure battery voltage to body ground at ECU connector terminals A25 and B1? Do you also measure voltage to body ground at A7 and A8? With the key off, do you measure continuity to body ground at terminals A23, A24, A26, and B2?

donee12

Sorry Ron you lost me here. Can you help me locat the ECU connectors and do I measure them with the Ohms meter?

Former User

The ECU is located behind the front passenger kick panel. The ECU connectors and wire colors are shown here.

Voltage measurements -- Set the meter to the lowest DC Voltage scale, typically around 20V. Touch the red meter probe to the indicated ECU terminal and the black meter probe to the metal frame under the dash.

Continuity to body ground - Test is done as I described previously. Use the lowest Ohm scale here as well.

donee12

Could they be located someplace else on my 93 Del Sol? I checked behind the passenger side front near trhe glove box and pulled back the carpet. I found on green connector and a black box.

Former User

For the Civic, the ECU is behind the plastic kick panel where the service connector (to pull CEL codes) is located. Post a picture.

donee12

I don't have a plastic kick panel in the front passenger side- just the carpet. Could the 93 Del Sol be different than some other years?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Looks like an ECU to me.

donee12

Its a 6" x 9" metal box - has a sticker with lots of numbers and the letters "ARM" It has a 2.5" x 8" black plactic case with wires going into it. Is the blak plastic part the ECU?

Former User

Remove the black plastic trim holding the carpet down on the right so that you can access the ECU connectors.

donee12

Ok got the metal box out and have the connectors out where I can get to them.

donee12

Providing this is the correct box and wires this is what I found.

A25 0.95
B1 No Reading
A7 No Reading
A8 No Reading

With key off
A23 No Reading
A24 14.8
A26 No Reading
B2 No Reading

It looked like some of the slots didn't have a metal connector inside or maybe there was but I didnt probe it enough. I could go back and give it another try it the readings above are not good.

Former User

It can be tricky getting proper measurements if your probes are fat and don't insert into the pin slots. If these numbers are correct and the tests were done correctly, there are problems. Are the top group voltage readings and the bottom group Ohm readings? Are the top group done with the key in ON(II). Did you verify that the ECU terminals were correct by matching them with the expected wire colors in the rear of the connector?

donee12

Let me go back and give it another try.

donee12

Yes I did have it wrong the last time. I traced the wire colors this time and this is what I got.


with key on II
A25 No Reading
B1 No Reading
A7 No Reading
A8 No Reading

with key off
A23 - 00.7
A24 - 00.7
A26 - 00.8
B2 - 00.7