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Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

Deciding on chassis parts ,Extended ball joints, tie rods, upper control arm, bushing

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Old 09-09-2015, 02:28 PM
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Default Re: Deciding on chassis parts ,Extended ball joints, tie rods, upper control arm, bus

I have the Truharts pictured up top, Haven't driven on them yet, but the quality is supreme, just worried about the rubber bushing over poly.

and this camber in the rear. despite being from Ebay great quality with poly bushings, lasts longer.
Old 09-09-2015, 03:42 PM
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Default Re: Deciding on chassis parts ,Extended ball joints, tie rods, upper control arm, bus

Polyurethane doesn't last longer than properly installed rubber bushings. Rubber bushings need to be clocked when assembled or installed in order to last their intended spans.

For ball joints and tie rods, I would buy them from a Honda dealer. There are discount dealers online. Bernardiparts.com is one of them.

Youd use extended ball joints/RCA's to extend suspension travel and correct roll centers on lowered cars. But you'll do fine without them.
Old 09-09-2015, 06:22 PM
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Default Re: Deciding on chassis parts ,Extended ball joints, tie rods, upper control arm, bus

I'd post in the road racing forum in regards to ext. ball joints. Probably a lot more answers for you there.

I'm using Skunk2 UCA's (Pro Plus), and the bushings squeak crazy over speed bumps. Also, the ball joints have already kicked the bucket. I've been daily driving on them for about a year and half now.



What is this I read about lubricating Energy Suspension bushings?! I've never heard of that. Is that all poly bushings in general?
Old 09-09-2015, 06:54 PM
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Default Re: Deciding on chassis parts ,Extended ball joints, tie rods, upper control arm, bus

Originally Posted by Dorkenheimer
I'm using Skunk2 UCA's (Pro Plus), and the bushings squeak crazy over speed bumps. Also, the ball joints have already kicked the bucket. I've been daily driving on them for about a year and half now.
Good to know. Makes me feel even more confident in the Truhart's with their HardRace ball joints. I know Hard Race strives for quality.

Originally Posted by Dorkenheimer
What is this I read about lubricating Energy Suspension bushings?! I've never heard of that. Is that all poly bushings in general?
From what I understand.... Yes.
Old 09-09-2015, 07:51 PM
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Default Re: Deciding on chassis parts ,Extended ball joints, tie rods, upper control arm, bus

I don't see any use for having an extended ball joint, unless you're referring to the adjustable ball joints that swivel
Old 09-10-2015, 11:01 AM
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Default Re: Deciding on chassis parts ,Extended ball joints, tie rods, upper control arm, bus

I have still yet to see proof that extended ball joints ACTUALLY correct anything. It's true they do raise the roll center (and add a tiny bit of compression travel). But from the actual measuring by another member here, they make bump-steer much worse because they cause the 3 arms (upper, lower & tie-rod) to point even further out from a zero-bump angle (assuming it was zero at stock ride height w/ stock suspension). Personally I wouldn't bother with these unless I was going to do mucho measuring, calculating and testing.

Here's the link to the posts: https://honda-tech.com/suspension-br.../#post46632244

Near-zero bump unequal length double wishbone suspension:

Last edited by 94eg!; 09-10-2015 at 11:35 AM.
Old 09-10-2015, 03:50 PM
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Default Re: Deciding on chassis parts ,Extended ball joints, tie rods, upper control arm, bus

^correct. Bumpsteer isn't really that big of a deal with civics/integras. And usually everyone's after more REAR roll stiffness anyway.
Old 09-10-2015, 05:20 PM
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Default Re: Deciding on chassis parts ,Extended ball joints, tie rods, upper control arm, bus

All I know is that in RC touring-car racing, we would run the roll centers as low as possible to gain max traction on low-grip (asphalt) racing. Some racers would raise their rear roll centers to free up the rear end (more oversteer), which translates to less grip at that end. Definitely the last thing one might want on the front of a FWD.

Suspension tuning is all about trial & error. Testing testing testing.
Old 09-11-2015, 06:48 AM
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Default Re: Deciding on chassis parts ,Extended ball joints, tie rods, upper control arm, bus

Originally Posted by johnmota
Nice same here , yea the hardrace looks good it's a little pricey but I've heard nothing but good things from them most likely going to go with them unless the difference in price is substantial compared to oem or beck arnley.
Well right now I can barely fit 1 finger in the gap, I do plan on raising it but not too much I like it lowered. I am probably going to go with those Extended ball joints by buddy club since I found them at a good deal less than 20$ over oem. Do you know if those will lower or raise the car anymore ? I know they are about 3/4 longer than oem but I'm not sure if it will affect ride height?

Yea well the reason I don't want to spend extra on adjustable UCA is because I'm not planning to do any camber to it I just want it as aligned and straight as possible. But if it isn't such a price difference between non adjustable and those skunk2 I might give them a shot.

I was on their website also and saw this kit it looks good but I have to see how far I can stretch my budget. Have you heard anything on the "pillow ball" bushigns hardrace sells? They are very pricey
Finger gap is a good relative way to measure but you have to take into consideration your tire and wheel size too when it comes to determining how dropped a car is. Before I got the S2 UCA my car was a one finger gap and the negative camber was pretty high and ate up my new tires rather quickly (I drive everyday but I don't drive far, I average about 8k a year). So I would get your camber checked out and I'm planning on raising my car back up to a 2 finger gap all around. I saw on the link someone provided that they can lower you car anywhere from .75 - to a full inch. So I would reconsider the ball joint. As for the UCA go OEM or a good brand but don't go cheap. I bought some $80 control arms but it was from some company (with a website) not an ebay brand and in a year the bushing gave out.
Old 09-11-2015, 06:53 AM
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Default Re: Deciding on chassis parts ,Extended ball joints, tie rods, upper control arm, bus

On an EK you will probably only need to bump the rear camber out with a shim kit due to the longer lower arms. I have an EG that's lowered 2.5" with all OEM arms. So long as I keep the toe straight, the tires last & last. I have put 10's of thousands on a set of soft Falken RT615's and they still have tread.

Whenever you alter your ride height, you MUST reset all your suspension bushings, and get an alignment to straighten out the toe. This keep your tires from shredding.

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