BiG_DeE

So i just got this EK recently and it needs to do emissions but like.. i cant get it to pass because the battery was disconnected so the ecu isnt reading all the way or something, i gotta complete a whole drive cycle, so i called up the local honda dealership and they siad 15-30 mins of driving when the car was at operating temperature so im unsure how long i need to do it for, i cant remember when it was disconnected i wanna say probably friday or something like that.. anyone help?? please?!?!?

Libertariat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BiG_DeE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and they said 15-30 mins of driving when the car was at operating temperature so im unsure how long i need to do it for</TD></TR></TABLE>




sounds like you need to drive 30 highway miles minimum.

HCivicSi23

This question makes no sense? Your car cannot even start with out the battery connected.

Richard...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HCivicSi23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This question makes no sense? Your car cannot even start with out the battery connected. </TD></TR></TABLE>


LOL

just drive around for an hour or a couple of days and all those stupid sensors will be back on

pkdog167

LOL

wtf??? He can't pass emissions because the battery was diconnected

You should able to pass it after you connected your battery

BiG_DeE

of course the battery is hooked up. but when you unplug it, it resets the ecu causeing some of the functions for sensors to get resetted and so i was wandering what it took for it to go back to normal, i did notice that when i turn the car on.. it will idol at like 1500 rpms but then when it gets warm it goes down to like 600.. also just bout 15 mins ago i started it up and it was down to like 1200 rpms when i started it.

Richard...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pkdog167 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL

wtf??? He can't pass emissions because the battery was disconnected

You should able to pass it after you connected your battery</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes BUT you have to drive the car around for a while so the computer re-learn i believe the Honda manual refers this to

As for how long it takes for the ECU to regain full function shouldn’t be to long you can go to the smog station have them re-check your ECU to find how many sensors the ECU is reading and a number come up on the screen

I had this same problem my self so I know your frustration!

Personally I just drove the car around for a couple of days then took it in and the rest is gravy!

westcoastcivic

that sucks

BiG_DeE

it had 5 sensors not reading.. im just wandering if theres anyway to find out if there working now lol

suspendedHatch

This is goddamned retarded. Who cares how long it takes? Are you trying to only use 20 minutes of gas?! 28.2 minutes of gas? Go run some errands, then go to the smog shop. They're going to run your car on the rollers for a while anyway so stop being a baby.

OBD2 sucks.

VAAJ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BiG_DeE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it had 5 sensors not reading.. im just wandering if theres anyway to find out if there working now lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have a scan tool that display monitor, you can check to see if all monitors are ready before you head off to do the smog check.

On OBD2 vehicle once you reset or disconnect the ecu, you need drive the vehicle for a while until all the sensor or monitors are ready. You need to at least drive the vehicle up 60mph in order to activate one of the monitor.

thesmogman

Yes, Someone has it right.

These monitors are run at different times and have different enabling criteria. (Drive cycles)There are seven to ten of them and you only need 60% of them set to complete to pass in CA.

At least you don't have to do any repairs.
Usually the DMV will give you an extension for your reg. when you have failed smog check papers, if that is the reason you don't want to drive it.

BiG_DeE

are you seriously that ******* dumb? with obd2 they hookup something to your computer and it tests all your sensors.

cimo463

No you are ******* dumb...You have to drive your car so the ECU can read the sensors! And when you start your car and it idles at 1500 that is normal..The engine is cold and it idles higher to warm up

Damon Reeves

if you manage to get the car running.

Check for CEL...O2 sensors tend to be the reasons for failing emissions.

I know my car did.

Relic1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BiG_DeE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you seriously that ******* dumb? with obd2 they hookup something to your computer and it tests all your sensors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not even cali tests that much. they check for DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes).
if there is a faulty sensor it will set a DTC, if the ECU has been reset and the proper drive cycles have not been encountered the ECU will store what's called a pending code.

doubt this? read --&gt; http://www.obdii.com/
yes it's GM and Ford based but it's a standard that every car must comply to, or that car can not be sold in the US.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The OBD-II drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below
122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees
of one another).

NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the
heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half
minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBD-II checks oxygen sensor heater
circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.

2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half
throttle. OBD-II checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.
Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes. OBD-II monitors
EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.

3. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the
clutch. OBD-II checks EGR and purge functions.

4. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBD-II checks misfire,
fuel trim and purge again.

5. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. OBD-II monitors
catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and
purge functions.

6. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBD-II makes a final
check of EGR and canister purge.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thesmogman

The emissions tests for California do indeed check for DTC's. They also check for monitors too. fyi.
50% of failures are for either CEL or monitors. Because they replaced the battery.

BiG_DeE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
not even cali tests that much. they check for DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes).
if there is a faulty sensor it will set a DTC, if the ECU has been reset and the proper drive cycles have not been encountered the ECU will store what's called a pending code.

doubt this? read --&gt; http://www.obdii.com/
yes it's GM and Ford based but it's a standard that every car must comply to, or that car can not be sold in the US.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly what i was looking for. now do i gotta do these steps in order?? cause i dont live near a place i can go 55 for 3 mins or even 5.. so ima try this lol!!

Relic1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thesmogman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The emissions tests for California do indeed check for DTC's. They also check for monitors too. fyi.</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually, monitors and DTCs are technically the same thing.
the DTC status includes several factors including readyness. (readyness = monitors)

OP - the steps just have to be present, oder is not critical but to be sure it works you should try to follow them as close as possible. driving 30 minutes to a location where you can drive 55mph for 5 minutes is ok though.

BiG_DeE

okay so just did emission again and i got 2 of the codes off.. now i only got 3 left, and they are...

Catalyst Ready
Evapurative System
and
02 Sensor

Relic1

you have to get though step 5 to get rid of the cat not ready flag, and the evap requires step 6 to be completed.
I'll bet the O2 sensor was the secondary O2. Typically set when the cat not ready is set.

BiG_DeE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have to get though step 5 to get rid of the cat not ready flag, and the evap requires step 6 to be completed.
I'll bet the O2 sensor was the secondary O2. Typically set when the cat not ready is set.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i tried them all before i did anything so, ima just do a full cold start again after while!!

blanka98

Hey Big_Dee

I am having the same issues as you are! I have no clue what it is, I have no check engine light or any trouble codes! I've driven 100 miles and those three sensors are not being re-learned by my ECU.

SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!!! Could it be a bad ECU???

tylerfoote

blank and big dee, you both have a obd2 right? first just to make sure you can check what codes your ecu is throwin for free, there should be a plug near your ecu, mines blue, but take a paper clip and make a u shape and plug it into both open spots, if you already know that, then usually you can just run a stock p28 and it'll pass.....lmk

blanka98

I've used both a code reader and also the paper clip method...no codes whatsover.