95delsolz6

I have a 95 del sol with a z6 and 185k miles on everything. Finished buying for my turbo setup and finally along came winter break with a month to build. Replaced rod bearings, piston rings and cleaned the head with a mild port and polish. Installed 255lph fuel pump, new fuel filter and balanced 450's w/resistor box.

My problem is that I try starting the car, but it won't turn over. The starter seems to be wearing on the battery, so I'm charging the battery over night, but it still has enough juice to play music. I know I get a spark, and when I finish attempting to start the car the engine bay smells of gas. So I don't know where I should start troubleshooting, any help is appreciated Thanks

Dirty Corey.

Playing music only requires like 2 volts of power, and that isnt even under load. Id honestly head to an Advance Auto or an Autozone and have the battery tested first off.

Speaking of the gas smell...do you have any visible leaks on the regulator return line side?

95delsolz6

One thing I haven't done yet is scoket and chip the ecu. I have all of the necessary parts for the ecu, but I wanted to make sure that the parts I replaced were correctly installed so that if something went wrong, the ecu wouldn't be a factor. But would that be stopping the car from starting?
No leaks in the fuel system that are visible, checked above and below.

reactone

I've started my car w/450's and an unchipped p05, it started but idled like crap.

zebvaj

Yes that would stop the car from starting. Should just chip it and load a basemap for thos 450 injectors. You might just be flooding your head there.

boosted_dc2

put in the stock injectors and try it. That will tell you if that's the issue.

Landon

95delsolz6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zebvaj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes that would stop the car from starting. Should just chip it and load a basemap for thos 450 injectors. You might just be flooding your head there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually that is exactly what I've been thinking this whole time. I can smell the fuel, but it's not leaking and I know I have a spark. Next to the fact that my battery is pretty shot I really hope those are the 2 problems. I'll install the chip and let you know how it goes. Thanks for all of the replies.

95delsolz6

Well I installed the socket kit and the base map with ease. Is there a certain direction I needed to install the capacitors on c51 and c52?
Anyways, I installed the ecu and the car did the same thing, tried to turn over but didn't start. Now I have a solid CEL and the SRS flashes when the key is on the second click. I'll try to figure out what's going on, any help is appreciated.


Modified by 95delsolz6 at 3:52 PM 1/17/2008

venomzz

if piston one is not in the exact same spot that it was in when the car was last shut off it would throw off any stored info in your ecu got to top dead center on piston one and then use the mark on your cam gear to set your valves with top dead center on one -----the mark on your cam gear should be straight up or straight horizontal I forget which one

yoffer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put in the stock injectors and try it. That will tell you if that's the issue.

Landon</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by venomzz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if piston one is not in the exact same spot that it was in when the car was last shut off it would throw off any stored info in your ecu got to top dead center on piston one and then use the mark on your cam gear to set your valves with top dead center on one -----the mark on your cam gear should be straight up or straight horizontal I forget which one</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is completely wrong. I am assuming since you know how to rebuild a engine that you wouldnt have over-looked the possibility of your timing belt being off. But about the part with the codes being throw, where are you getting this from?? O and just to clarify this off-topic post, the cam gear marks should be horizontal when setting the #1 cyl to TDC.

venomzz

Whats wrong about it I was told by someone else about the position of the piston and ecu so that could be wrong and I am sorry if it is I probably should have phrased that differently and said if you skipped a couple of teeth on your cam gear but thats how I timed my D motor when I was like 5 teeth off and it worked someone said the timing mark was on the crank gear on the b motors but there was a mark on my cam gear and it ran perfect afterwards ( sorry I am a lil intoxicated).

yoffer

You have said the exact same thing in two different threads where the problem wasnt related to the engine timing at all.
Stop posting random information that isnt entirely correct just so your post count goes up.

venomzz

Im actually bored and drunk and have had a lot of experience with cars and timing and am just throwing it out there because its alwasy the best place to start and maybe I am a retarded noob bout how are ignition timing and the firing order of the pistons not the same if you time one you time the other explain it to me honda master.....oh sorry if you do reset your timing to tdc on piston one make sure your distributor is set to your number one contact many of them ARE numbered inside your distributor after you take the cap off oh gee look now they are the same thing.


Modified by venomzz at 9:19 PM 1/17/2008

yoffer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by venomzz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im actually bored and drunk and have had a lot of experience with cars and timing and am just throwing it out there because its alwasy the best place to start and maybe I am a retarded noob bout how are ignition timing and the firing order of the pistons not the same if you time one you time the other explain it to me honda master</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your funny eh? Ignition timing is set via timing gun and moving the dist. back and forth to advance/retard the timing to a desired setting Ex:16* btdc. Ignition timing is the actual timing where a spark is ignited within the cyl. to ignite the fuel, (aka:gas). The degree's in which the timing is set corresponds to crankshaft rotation, 0* being top dead center. You can advace or retard the ign. timing to gain horsepower (using a dyno of course) and if not set right can actually lose power and/or damage your engine.

venomzz

and ill bet you if you reset your timing to tdc on one and set your distributor itll be so close to perfect you don't need a timing gun and this procedure works with every different kind of car now if you wanna get extreme and start messing with your timing advancing and retarding it and adjusting your timing curve and such you can do all that crap but if you just did a SWAP and want it to RUN you can do what i said and it WILL work.

yoffer

I never said that it wouldnt run if you didnt use a timing gun now did I? You basically questioned my knowledge on the subject so i explained it to you so that you would understand. You asked me about the difference in ign. timing and engine timing (timing belt) and i explained them to you as best i could for you to understand. I do not see the problem. Sure go ahead, just turn the dist. till it sounds right and bolt it up. I know many people that do this and have no problems, but i prefer to set mine to factory specs. And maybe its just me reading the OP but i dont believe that the OP did a swap, just a rebuild and turbo.

venomzz

Well Id say that we both know what we are talking about and the reason we are arguing
is because I took offense to the random post comment so at this point to continue arguing would be pointless and I apologize and I would do a shot with you if you were here......cheers!

zebvaj

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95delsolz6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I installed the socket kit and the base map with ease. Is there a certain direction I needed to install the capacitors on c51 and c52?
Anyways, I installed the ecu and the car did the same thing, tried to turn over but didn't start. Now I have a solid CEL and the SRS flashes when the key is on the second click. I'll try to figure out what's going on, any help is appreciated.


Modified by 95delsolz6 at 3:52 PM 1/17/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

No the capacitors doesn't have polarity so anyway is fine. Solid CEL means you have a bad CHIPPING job or a bad BURN, BASEMAP, or CHIP itself. This is a P28 right? What program are you using to create your basemap? What kind of chips? If its Crome you need to "remove checksum routine" and if you are using SST chips, start the burn at 8000 (address) using Willem or whatever your device is. Trouble shoot everything.

95delsolz6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yoffer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is completely wrong. I am assuming since you know how to rebuild a engine that you wouldnt have over-looked the possibility of your timing belt being off. But about the part with the codes being throw, where are you getting this from?? O and just to clarify this off-topic post, the cam gear marks should be horizontal when setting the #1 cyl to TDC.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually by the sound of all the problems and complications I've been having I really thought everyone would have known that this is my first build. Yes I understand how to rebuild an engine, but with no prior experience I was in over my head, had a little help, but not enough. I have been going between my chilton and a borrowed haynes repair guide, because I still have no idea where to get a Helms. I thought that the haynes said to place the #1 cylinder at TDC and match the cam gear to the vertical mark, because that's what I did and my friend didn't no any different. So that's where the problem lies and I'll get on that as soon as I'm not sick anymore, GD cold . As for the codes, I was checking a wire plugged into both sides of the jumper plug by the ecu. I've been told it was my soldering job, I'll have to take a look. Thanks for all the replies


Modified by 95delsolz6 at 6:59 AM 1/18/2008

95delsolz6

I got all of my supplies including the base map for my p28 from phearable here on HT.

boosted_dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95delsolz6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually by the sound of all the problems and complications I've been having I really thought everyone would have known that this is my first build. Yes I understand how to rebuild an engine, but with no prior experience I was in over my head, had a little help, but not enough. I have been going between my chilton and a borrowed haynes repair guide, because I still have no idea where to get a Helms. I thought that the haynes said to place the #1 cylinder at TDC and match the cam gear to the vertical mark, because that's what I did and my friend didn't no any different. So that's where the problem lies and I'll get on that as soon as I'm not sick anymore, GD cold . As for the codes, I was checking a wire plugged into both sides of the jumper plug by the ecu. I've been told it was my soldering job, I'll have to take a look. Thanks for all the replies


Modified by 95delsolz6 at 6:59 AM 1/18/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

hopefully you werent off by alot or you could have bent some valves in your head

Landon

bakadesuyo

Go online to get the Helms book.
Helms: http://www.helminc.com/helm/se...1BE31

Once you do throw away the chilton and haynes. It's not cheap but you'll recover it in repairs and fustration.

Not being smart, but how do you know you have spark? How did you check?

95delsolz6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bakadesuyo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not being smart, but how do you know you have spark? How did you check?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I checked, by putting a spark plug on the valve cover.
Which manual would I want, Service and Owner Information?


Modified by 95delsolz6 at 2:15 PM 1/18/2008

95delsolz6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hopefully you werent off by alot or you could have bent some valves in your head

</TD></TR></TABLE>

F---! That would either end my car tuning adventure or give me an excuse to upgrade internals with money I don't have. I'll hope for the best, but expect the worst.

95delsolz6

Okay got the timing cover off and looked at the cam gear. The cam gear on the z6 says UP, which is the position it needs to be when the #1 cylinder is at TDC. This I did perfectly so I don't know where my problem lies now. HELP please!


Modified by 95delsolz6 at 6:53 PM 1/19/2008