slammed92si

sorry if I'm posting to wrong forum new to the site, I have a 92 civic si that I bought with a d16y7, long story short I bought a d16z6 with bad rings so it would burn a lot of oil, never had a chance to change, one day it started ticking from the valve cover, changed lost motion assembly and adjusted my valves and the ticking is still there, what else could it be? This is my daily driver and I haven't driven her since so any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks in advance!

slammed92si

Bump

TomCat39

Ticking is normally normal for Honda valve train.

However, I suspect from your post you are getting a sound that was not there before.

Trying to "diagnose" a sound based on a textual short post is nearly impossible.

It's this challenge that causes me to believe why everyone is staying away from this with a very large pole.

I'm not even sure a video will capture the sound you are concerned with.

slammed92si

Well I can post a video anyway just in case, anything helps, but I forgot to mention, when I adjusted my valves I turned the car on with it lifted in air and my driver side wheel off and with it in neutral the hub started moving, but with the clutch in it stayed still, ticking was their either way

slammed92si

civic402lx

Uh. That sound more like engine knocking and not valve train ticking.. More like a rod knock..
btw the link need to be edited.
​​​​​
sounds like engine ran on low oil, not enough lube, spun one of the bearing, toast the rod. IF, indeed it is a rod knock noise from the video.
Good luck

slammed92si

I have a y7 I can use the block off of it if it indeed is a rod knock, thanks for the advice!!

slammed92si

i don't know how to edit the link, and also the car did run low on oil once, burns a lot of oil due to piston rings, thanks again though!! At least I know more or less where to start

TomCat39

That does sound pretty horrendous.

Get a mechanics stethoscope, their like 20 bucks at the auto parts store. Lisle makes a good one.

Listen around on the block while it's running and see where it is loudest at, top of block, bottom of block, which cylinder or if it's in the head.

This will give you a better idea where it's knocking.

White_EG1

I would replace the LMA's as a last step if no change in noise it's definitely gotta be from the block.

Since your rings are going out I'd just throw the y7 block in regardless, but I would also replace the rings and bearings in the y7 first.

Dont forget to send the head to a machine shop have them check for warpage.

slammed92si

i cleaned lma currently in there and they seemed fine, didn't stick or nothing, and I have looked everywhere and can't find new ones only used, but thanks for reply back y'all guys are a lot of help, not really good at diagnosing.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

dont even need a mech. stethoscope if you are low on funds. long screwdriver/prybar. hold it to the block, ear to handle end.

CX-Adam

This!

Good suggestion, eghatch.

TomCat39

I used to do this, but unless you have the 3 foot screwdriver, it's really difficult to get to the bottom of the block on cylinder 2, 3 and 4 with the exhaust manifold/header.

That's why I suggested the mech Stethoscope so you can hit all the spots on the motor easily regardless of how hot the header is without worry of burning yourself.

slammed92si

they are 3.99 at harbor freight, or should I get a better one? Not really going to use it that much anyway?

TomCat39

Totally up to you really. I personally am glad to have one. The difference in what you hear is night and day and the ease of use I felt was worth the money. But I also buy used motors and such so, it's just another tool in my arsenal.

slammed92si

i have a question about the LMA's are they suppose to be really stiff to were I have to compress them with both thumbs or should I be able to push them down fairly easy? They don't stick but they are really stiff