PeteABread

Hello I have been rebuilding my eg6 for two years, one donor car later I thought I was done but I have had ongoing idle issues ever since the D16 Z6 motor got dropped into the car. I understand these things are very hard to diagnose without contact with the car but fresh brain thinking about the problem from a different perspective.

*regarding the engine:

New Crank Bearings
New Piston Bearings
New Piston Rings
New Valve Stem Seals
New Thrust Bearing
New Idle Control Valve
Valves Ported and Polished
Piston Chambers Honed
Crankshaft Polished
New Spark Plugs
All New Gaskets
New o2 Sensor
AEM fuel pressure regulator
Half Weight Race Flywheel
Stage 3 Clutch

*regarding the PROBLEM.

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gj_A...ature=youtu.be

Over fueling heavily smells ripe at the back
Misfires
Struggles to catch idle after throttle

This happens in both fast idle and regular idle although when it has warmed up it does get worse.

When accelerating it works well

*regarding the solution

Compression tested and was all good
No suspected Vacuum leaks
No check engine light

*regarding the cash reward

If someone happens to hit the nail on the head I would be happy to PayPal a small reward in the area of £20/$25 as a token of appreciation

98EJ7Y8

u may not be throwing any codes but did you check your throttle position sensor .. and/or your idle set screw in ur throttle body .. and also your bottom end may need timed with a light if that has not already been done

KandabashiDevil

My best guess? Faulty fuel pressure regulator.

redm3turbo

A friend of mine had a similar issue on a domestic. You change the fuel filter lately?

Might be a real long shot---however its a cheap easy fix if anything

hannslebo

Timing correct?

98EJ7Y8

my car runs the same way .. check the things i said in my last post ... i dont believe the car would run like this if the crank slipped a tooth but hey its worth a shot .. but def check all the others

PeteABread

not checked the tps but apparantly they never go wrong. idle screw thingy was tightened up i dont understand what you mean by bottom end timed as the crank is attached to the pistons then the bottom end timing should be relivent to the head timing, please explain if i am getting this wrong.

PeteABread

yes it has been checked and apparantly it is correct

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Keep thinking that.

PeteABread

hello boys and girls when reseting my valve clearance on my d16z6 trying to cure a misfire problem i noticed that the inlet and exhaust valves on my 4th cylinder have been placed in the wrong way (hopefully or the other 75% are wrong lol) anyway i was wondering if this kind of thing could actually cause my misfiring and idle problems

Many Thanks Pete

PeteABread

lol yea i get how ignorant that sounds but really am very sure thats not the issue

I found out today that one of the cylinders has had the inlet and exhaust valve springs mixed up however i dont know if that could even be the source of my problems!!! ahhh full stress

Former User

Only one thread per topic is allowed. Related threads merged.

PeteABread

Ok a quick update on the problem still need bags of help...]

THIS HAS SOME VERY SKILLED AMATURE MECHANICS STUMPED

ok so currently when the car is started to begin with (hot or cold) it goes great for a couple of seconds litrally and then begins to idle like a barrel of mince. It is overfueling, when throttle is applied it picks up rapidly but when you hold it at a certain rpm you can still hear that it is experencing the same problems that it is on idle i.e. the overfueling and rough when holding rpm!!! NO ENGINE LIGHT ON wtf really not impressed taken me nearly 3 years to get to this point and i just want to drive the F***er

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Post #11. Fix that condition.

PeteABread

i need some ideas. non mechanical problem i think

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

So you don't think this is an issue you need to address? Did you ever check the TPS? I really don't care if you don't think it's the issue or not because if you knew what the issue was you wouldn't have posted. It would take you all of 5 minutes to check it and rule it out.

What IS your fuel pressure set at? Why do you have an aftermarket FPR in the first place?

Misfires. Did we ever bother to check mechanical or ignition timing?

Others have given suggestions as well and you seem to be waiting for the one you like before you act on it. That's not how troubleshooting works. I re-read this whole thread a few times and it looks like you've done nothing that anyone has suggested.
This is what has been suggested.
You have either dismissed or ignored the advice altogether.
Why bother posting?

PeteABread

i have checked both idle control sensors on the inlet manifold.
i dont have a spare throttle position sensor or know how to check without a spare.
replaced the fuel pressure regulator with original.
new o2 sensor
checked for valve lash
i have checked all the ignition components.

i am unsure how to check the timing!!!

also i am very curious about wether the 1.5 lsi (carbourated) the car was could still have components on it that could upset the 1.5 injection system

to be honest i dont understand how timing check works but i will look into it

PeteABread

swapped the inlet / exhaust valve and that wasn't the cure........... RAGE

PeteABread

to grumblemarc.

sorry about this i am new to forums and very busy with work and college reciently. I was testing all suggestions that i could sorry about the lack of updates i will keep all those who are kind enough to offer there help informed about how there suggestions barrel out

JdmLoki

This might sound silly but when you put your injectors in, it's fairly easy to lose the plastic filter type piece that goes into the top of them, that slides into the Fuel Rail, I would suggest checking it if you were missing more than one it could cause the engine to be getting to much fuel, also as someone else stated the screws on the TPS can be loosened and it can be , moved around to adjust the idle, I would try that first.

PeteABread

yea sild them out again to make sure. i replaced the fpr with a standered one it didn't help though just going to leave it on until the problem has been sorted due to it being set for the car.

MySickSi

I would check the tps and set the idle on the screw near the throttle body. Theres guides on how to dp both amd if both dont help you can rule out another two things

PeteABread

these suggestions have been listed already. I have no means of testing the tps until i can borrow a spare. fast Idle screw has been set

strategy400

Checking the mechanical timing involves making sure the crank and cam are in time via proper installation of the timing belt.



To set the ignition timing you must jump the service connector under the dash near the ECU. Then you connect a timing light (battery terminals and #1 cylinder spark plug wire), start the engine and warm up making sure the idle is near 700 rpm then point the light at the crank pulley and verify the mark on the pulley lines up with the pointer on the timing cover. I think the correct mark is the center mark of the 3 marks that are very close together (16 degrees before top dead center? someone can verifiy this). The mark all by itself is the top dead center mark, not used to check ignition timing.

You change the ignition timing by loosening the distributor bolts (3) and rotating the distributor.

Let me know if you need more info.

Good luck.

PeteABread

Cheers stratagy,

wipped of the belt cover to check because i couldnt source a strobe but timing all seems in check, adjusting the ignition timing only made the situation worse unfortunately,
Might be getting a running eg6 to borrow parts, and possibly sections of the wiring loom. Could a duff ECU cause this sort of problem ?

I have a theory that some electrical components to run the injectors properly may have been missed in the swap although i dont have the experiance to know if bits like this have been overlooked