Diet

Hey guys,

Title says it all, really. I need to adjust the timing on my D16Z6 and I don't have a cover over the timing belt with the little mark used to line up the 3 timing marks on the pulley.

I've tried to google this but I haven't been able to find anything... Anyone have any advice as to how I can adjust the timing without having to install a new cover?


Thanks!
Seth

4dohs4mohoes

Im sorry.... but you never said why you need to adjust the timing.

Diet

Basically, I'm a noob...

The longer version is that I removed the distributor to replace the o-ring and seal (measurable amount of oil was visible through the clear cap). I didn't know until after I removed the distributor that it had a specific place to sit...

So yeah, I basically just need to get the dizzy back where it belongs.


Thanks!
Seth

4dohs4mohoes

Just install the distributor with the top bolt as close to center of the distributor foot as you can. Since you do not have the timing cover.

Wait.... where is the timing cover and why is it off?

Diet

Good question! The best answer I have is "Nowhere near the car!"

I just purchased the car a few weeks ago. I should've done more homework on it before I bought it. Being completely new to Hondas (and an extremely amateur mechanic), I didn't know what-all to look for. And I guess I didn't realize that there should be something covering the timing belt.


Thanks again for the help!
Seth

4dohs4mohoes

well for a temporary "fix" do as I said before. Then find a cover. At least a lower cover.

Also... Are you having drive ability issues?

Diet

Ok, thanks. I'll give that a try.

Drive ability? Ever since I put the distributor back on, it hasn't been able to move out of its own way... I've only driven < 100 yards since I bolted the dizzy back on since it lacks so much power.


Thanks,
Seth

4dohs4mohoes

Did it drive fine before removing the dizzy? Sounds like you could have the firing order wrong.

Diet

Well, kind of a long story there, but yes, it did run and drive alright before I removed the dizzy. The engine overheated though, when I was driving from the PO's house. Since the gauge cluster had no temperature gauge on it (needle had broken off... ), I didn't know it was overheating until the radiator blew and I was forced to coast to a halt.

Once I got it home, I replaced the radiator, thermostat, gauge cluster, and removed the dizzy to replace the o-ring and seal. And it hasn't run really well since then... so I'm trying to get it timed so it's hopefully drivable at least... then diagnose other issues with the engine (that seemed to have popped up when it overheated - a rather concerning white smoke and a rather audible knock that sounds like it's coming from the head (VTEC)).

And starting from the distributor terminal towards the back of the engine, the plugs are plugged in 1-3-4-2 clockwise. Which according to everything I've found, is the correct firing order.

Thanks again for your help!
Seth

Jimster480

White smoke means a blown head gasket. If you blew your radatior up, you probably blew up the whole thing. Its pretty easy for you to warp the head on aluminum engines such as these. And if it is knocking, you could have easily spun a bearing with the milk that your oil probably is. The reason it doesnt have any power is because its most likely blown.

Diet

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. But just incase it's something else, before I decide to get rid of the car, I want to eliminate whatever possibilities I can...


Diet

94EG8

Yep, i'd say that engine is probably cooked.

B18C5-EH2

Unfortunately any parts/money, and time you are throwing into that engine is all WASTED because your engine is 99% likely destroyed.

Overheating to the point of blowing the radiator?

Check.

White smoke from tail pipe?

Check.

Complete lack of power from engine?

Check.

Knocking noises from anywhere within the engine?

Check.

You just filled out the "my engine has a badly blown head gasket and likely other damages" check list.

I'm not being a smart *** here, and I'm not making light of you being in a bad situation. I'm honestly trying to help you from wasting any more efforts on that obviously destroyed engine.

If you really want to help yourself, then spend the money on a block testing kit:



It's cheap, simple to use, and will absolutely confirm that your engine has a badly blown head gasket and is not worth a shred of time and parts in efforts to keep it running. You can also use it multiple times on any type of vehicle if you ever need to check for a blown head gasket.

- Simply draw some fluid out of the top tank in your radiator to create a slight air space

- Start the engine and let it run (ideally a warm engine yields the best results if it has a slightly blown head gasket)

- Using the turkey baster looking piece (with blue tester fluid you put in it) squeeze the bulb to take an air sample from the top tank in the radiator

- If the blue fluid turns yellow or green you have a blown head gasket (the blue fluid reacts to combustion leaks/exhaust gases present in the cooling system when it shouldn't be there)

Trying to band-aid a badly hurt engine isn't productive man.

Diet

Wow, thanks for the advice. I'll see if I can find one of those testing kits locally. I didn't realize that there was a tool that was so straight-forward for testing the head gasket. And I never read any of your help as being a wiseguy or making light of my situation. Your checklist was pretty helpful, really... I keep trying to tell myself it's not the head gasket and that it's another easy fix... Thanks for the advice.

And this car was just supposed to be a cheap winter rat. I don't see it being worth the effort of a new head gasket on an engine that I think has a lot of other issues. If I could find another running engine for cheap, I would possibly consider dropping that in... Or I guess just part the car out.

Any suggestions as to where I should go from here?


Thanks,
Seth

B18C5-EH2

I don't know how much time/effort you're wanting to put into this car if it's a winter beater. I've NEVER been a fan of putting a new head gasket on a badly overheated engine, and in your case with the noises I'd say I'd really not bother.

At the very least you'd probably want to get a head gasket, intake gasket, and a thermostat and also have the head machined to insure flatness.

My gut says find another engine.

Jimster480

He could also just pull the dipstick, and if the oil is milky then its obvious that its blown. You said you drove it home from the previous owners house and it blew up on the way home? Go back to his house and kick his fkn *** for selling you that ****.

Diet

Yeah, that's the thing- this was just supposed to be the car that got me through the winter so I didn't have to put the SRT-4 on the salty NY roads. I don't really care to try to revive an engine that's already overheated to the point of blowing the radiator and has a rather alarming knock.

Thanks for the advice. I think my gut is stuck right now deciding between trying to find a cheap yet running engine or just putting snow tires on the SRT for the winter and skipping the winter Civic idea.


Thanks again,
Seth

Diet

Oh, and I think that'll be my next step...

I did check the oil and it didn't seem to have anything in it besides oil... Didn't notice any odd coloration or milky substance in it.


Seth

EJeff8

Try to tell my friend this. He's redoing the whole engine on a B15B7 so he can drive it for a year.

B18C5-EH2

Hondas and head gaskets are strange in that you can have one blown badly to where the coolant is being burned, compression literally pumps up the cooling system and forces coolant into the overflow bottle to the point that it hisses and spews coolant from it, but the oil and coolant are still perfectly separate from each other.

I certainly would check the dipstick and double check the coolant to see if you've got "milkshake" but that in and of itself isn't the best determinant that you don't have a blown head gasket if the oil and coolant look perfect. Obviously milkshake means death, but lack of milkshake still leaves the question that a block test quickly answers.

Diet

Hmmm... Come to think of it, there is a "hiss" coming from the hose that connects the radiator to the coolant overflow bottle. I think the pressure is escaping from the point where the hose seals onto the cap on top of the overflow bottle. I guess that was something that I meant to take note of/ask about, but it just was forgotten on the wayside. Should there not be that much pressure in the coolant system?

And yeah, I kinda figured that milkshake = bad head gasket, but lack of milkshake = possible head gasket/who knows.

Jimster480

yep. I had mine leaking for over 5k miles and no issues with milky oil until i blew a huge hole into it.

95civickilla

first the timing cover it dosent matter if you have it or not to put it on time the marks are in the head 2nd if you replace the dizzy and everything else you dont have to deal with the timing cover at all 3rd it sounds that you mess up your head gasket for sure and the knocking when you replace your head gasket or who ever is doing it they have to take the head out for sure push every piston down it dosent matter if they are already if one moves down then ou know you spun a bearing for sure or you use mess your lifters of our head but a lucas additive would probably take care od that noise if you didnt spun a bearing

Diet

...and it's the head gasket! Thanks again everyone for the input. I tried the block tester tool (Autozone loans them for free (you get your money back when you return it)) and it's definitely the head gasket. Some major leakage happening...

Thanks again for all the input.

Jimster480

What about the knocking comming from the block.