Archidictus

ARP #208-4301 is the number on the box that we received from Summit Racing. It says "D16 10mm" on the label and the pitch and coarseness of the studs are correct.

However. When we thread the studs into the block - a Y8 block - and set the head down over top of them - a normal D16Z6 VTEC head - the thread on the tops of the studs doesn't even come close to touching the mating surface on the top of the head bolt mounting...flange or whatever

No, the supplied washers don't make it any more close as there is a good 1/2 inch of clearance between where the head surface ends and the thread begins. Yes, we've tried putting the studs in both ways - upside down and right-side-up, as it were - and both scenarios provoked the same result. Currently - as it was the second way we tried them - the hex-socket end of the studs (the short thread end of the studs) is down in the block.

9 of the 10 studs sit at 4 5/8's inches above the deck height and the intake-side corner at cylinder one (closest to the timing belt, back side of the engine) sits at 4 1/4th inches. Anyone have an explanation for that?

Just let me know what you guys think.

Soccerking3000

lol, did you clean out the holes in the block for the studs, although i cant see them all having some sort of blockage at the same height, i would just throw 10 washers on each and call it a day, but i dont think thats the best way to go about things

MikeD718

i think the studs for d16y's and d16z's are different. perhaps the head for the y8 is a little taller? just a thought.

sohc-8

one stud for d16z's is longer than the rest.
d16y studs are the same length. i think its because
of the head.

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol, did you clean out the holes in the block for the studs, although i cant see them all having some sort of blockage at the same height, i would just throw 10 washers on each and call it a day, but i dont think thats the best way to go about things </TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha...don't think I haven't considered it.

I'm really confused. I'm reasonably sure that the Y8 head is not 1/2 inch taller than the Z6 because the ports aren't much bigger or in too different a location. That tells me that Honda would not put a .25 inch pad around them on the top and bottom because of materials costs.

I can only assume the box is mislabeled? I mean, 9 of 10 sit dead-on acurate at .5 inches over where they're supposed to be and the other one is just barely correct. And yes, I did make sure to clean the holes

Soccerking3000

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Haha...don't think I haven't considered it.

I'm really confused. I'm reasonably sure that the Y8 head is not 1/2 inch taller than the Z6 because the ports aren't much bigger or in too different a location. That tells me that Honda would not put a .25 inch pad around them on the top and bottom because of materials costs.

I can only assume the box is mislabeled? I mean, 9 of 10 sit dead-on acurate at .5 inches over where they're supposed to be and the other one is just barely correct. And yes, I did make sure to clean the holes </TD></TR></TABLE>

you never know those columbus people sometimes make me wonder . As for your problem the only thing i would do is call ARP and ask and see what they say and if they have something that will work, like you said have 9/10 of them exactly .5 inch over seems odd...

willyboyK20

There is another member on this board with a turbo d and he said he had to use one d16z6 stud and all other head studs were y8 studs.

This was because he was also using a z6 head and y8 block

I wish i can remember his name

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you never know those columbus people sometimes make me wonder . As for your problem the only thing i would do is call ARP and ask and see what they say and if they have something that will work, like you said have 9/10 of them exactly .5 inch over seems odd...</TD></TR></TABLE>

The thing is, it's some other kid's engine and I'm helping him out of the goodness of my heart . I need to figure something out though, because I don't want this issue to bother me for the rest of the week.

Bense

for a d16y* head on a d15* or a d16z6 or a d16a6 block you use 9 d15/d16a6/d16z6 head bolt and 1 d16y* head bolt. Take my word for it, I seriously just had to do this like two weeks ago.


for a d15/d16a6/d16z6 head on a d16y* block you use 9 d16y* bolts and 1 d15/d16z6/d16a6 head bolt.


if you notice on the d15/d16z6/d16a6 heads where the bolt goes through the head, on the corner of the passenger rear (vtec solenoid corner) it is raised.

the d16y* blocks are different in that threaded area in the block for the head studs is closer to the cylinder head. All the other d15s, d16a6, d16z6 have threads further into the block with the exception of the corner near the vtec solenoid. To prevent people from mixing the bolts up and ******* the engine all up, honda decided to raise that corner so that it could use the same length bolt.