travis b

Okay so I have an ek with a y7 in it, complete stock. I put it in the car probably 6 months ago and ended up selling it. I actually just got the car again and it has the same idling issues. What it does its randomly it'll drop to like below 4-500 and the battery light will cut on and kick it back on and sometimes it'll cut off. Starting it completely cold it was idling at around 800rpm (warm day however). Sometimes it will idle just fine, others not.

I put new plugs in it, new wires, the cap and rotor look kind of shitty and I had a clean cap as an extra so I put that on. Gonna try the rotor next. I cleaned the IACV back when I put the motor in and it never helped. throttle cable is adjusted correctly. I'm going to try spraying tb cleaner into the iacv to see if it helps.

Any ideas on what I should replace or check for? I'm pretty stumped on it. I'll get someone to check the dizzy timing if I get a chance. Other than that it runs fine and accelerates fine so I'm assuming it's not the mechanical timing.

Former User

What car? What car did the swapped Y7 come from?

travis b

motors in a obd2a ek hatch, came from a obd2a ek sedan.

Former User

Adjust the idle speed - see FAQs sticky.

travis b

I've done that. Like I said, it's not constantly low. Just randomly. Sometimes it'll hold fine right at ~800 others it just dips way down and cuts off.

Former User

Did you follow the procedure in the diagram that matches your engine?

travis b

Yes, I actually checked the FAQ beforehand, and have known the proper way to do it. I did it way back when, when the motor was dropped in.

Former User

Bleed the cooling system and test the ECT sensor.

Any CEL codes?

mdtsdca

have you also checked the screen in front of the fuel pressure regulator? it's behind the intake mani. Two 12mm bolts. Mine was clogged w/sut and it greatly improved idle after cleaning.

travis b

No CELs. the light works, I unplugged a sensor just earlier today to test. Would air in the system cause the IACV to mess up or something?

And how do I test the ECT? That's the sensor on the thermostat housing correct? And what would I be looking for.

travis b

I said I cleaned the IACV in the OP, but thanks for the suggestion.

Former User

Yes, that's why I suggested you do it. Suffice it to say that I'm not going to suggest you do random useless tasks.

No. It's the 2-wire sensor below the distributor. When the engine is fully warmed up, measure resistance across the two sensor terminals. It should read 200-400 Ohms.

travis b

Haha, I figured just as much so, I was just inquiring as to what it would cause. I'll do that now.

I'll do that as well if I can find my trusty old *** voltmeter thing

Former User

Air in the cooling system can discombobulate the ECT sensor by interfering with its ability to read coolant temp and creating pockets of hot and cool coolant.

travis b

My normal multimeter is missing, I found one but I'm pretty sure it doesn't read ohms or I'm half retarded. Probably the later. Bleeding the system now though.

Former User

Bleeding the cooling system may take 20-30 minutes.

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push/turn the dash heater lever/**** to MAX heat. Fan need not be on.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below

travis b

I made a video, it's still processing so HD might not be available. As you see when I start it, sometimes it's fine. Other times it falls down.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yNcA-T2on0

Former User

Have you tested the alternator?

travis b

I put my multimeter on the positive and negative terminals of the battery and im getting about 14.5 constant reading. Isn't that a tad high, which is the sign of a bad alternator? I have another D series alternator but it is from a obd0 d16a6 motor, it worked fine though. Can I use that?

Former User

I think 14.5V is at the high end of normal. Is that at idle? What happens to the voltage if you turn on the high beams and the vent blower on max?

travis b

Yes that was at idle while it was holding at ~800rpm. It's hard to get an EXACT reading with my analog multimeter but 14.5 is what I would guess it to be at.

Just tried with lights, radio and blower on. Was getting what I would estimate to be 13.0-13.2.

Former User

That's too low. Should be almost 14V.

travis b

So you think maybe that the alternator could cause this? Or did we just uncover another issue? Ha. But like I said, I have that obd0 one, can't I swap the plugs from the casing? Or I have the obd0 harness I can use the plug and splice them together. Orrrrr I can just go buy an alternator.

Former User

Either or both. If your voltage readings are correct, the alternator is not able to keep up with demand.



I don't know. My knowledge is weak on compatibility. Create another thread asking that question.

93delsold16z6

subscribed. my 91 ef hatch does same