canadaek

well i had a crack in my y7 manifold and i passed with no problem's also i have been a certified emissions repair tech in Canada for 8 years and the main cause of failure's on most vehicles is a bad sensor or failed cat not worn plugs wire's or pvc valves the large dent in the side of your o2 sensor means it should be replaced as it's easly damaged . when you get some real experiences let me know.

oneEg1Tc

so i passed the low speed but failed the high one but little , numbers are better than the first time tho and my timing was on 10 not 12 BUT he said im allowed 2 difference , and now he suggested run 91 gas maybe that will help

oneEg1Tc

up

canadaek

So what did you end up doing to it before getting tested again ? and 91 will only make it worse it burn's slower then 87 octane that's how it reduce's detonation an ethanol blend would be better as it act's as an oxidizer and fixing your timing would be a good idea.

oneEg1Tc

I changed Both new o2 sensors , replaceD exhaust manifold with a cat , pcv valve , cleaned the iacv , and pumped 89

canadaek

wow then there is something really wrong with your car . try checking the intake air temp sensor,engine coolant temp,and the throttle position switch . if they check out i would try another ecu. it's not in fuel control

oneEg1Tc

so no 91 ?

canadaek

no 91 ,any history on the car ? is this the medoria hatch ? maybe check the cam timing (timing marks line up)

fleabag

maybe it's time for some seafoam and or ethanol treatment. Is the car idling at its proper 670rpm without any hesitation or other difficulty? Has OP changed his oil? Does OP have any vacuum leaks? If the vacuum hoses are really old, it might be a good idea to replace them.

NotAJDMFanBoy

How many miles are on the cat? I heard they normally last about 80k miles in general. No idea the specifics of a Honda cat. Though an engine like that should be able to pass without a cat.

Are all your vacuum lines on the manifold on and in good shape? You could have a vacuum leak making it run rich. On a 13 or so year old car, it's possible hoses could crack.

As someone said, the grounds could be an issue. The Q101 thermostat housing ground is a sensor ground. If sensors aren't grounded well, they may not read correctly. Just take the cable off and clean both with a little sand paper. Can't hurt anything.


Someone asked about why it's a good idea to get the car hot. The catalytic converter must be up to temperature to operate correctly. It won't do it's job if it's cold. And the engine will run rich while warming up, and when warmed up, should idle at about 14.7:1.

Testing your sensors is a good idea. IAT, ECT, MAP, TPS as it's been mentioned.

oneEg1Tc

O2 sensors are 4 days old , cat super mint , no leaks and idles right under 1k rpm , no leaks I checked my hoses , some people me to put iso heet and take it the same day , I was reading and seems to work but I heard people sayin that using sea foam is the same thing but having sea foam on the car while smog would fail me so I dunno , car had a new oil change , new spark plugs , cap , rotor, wires , and pcv valve any one used iso heet before ?

fleabag

Get an OBD-II reader like a scan gauge of sorts and report back the exact idle speed when fully warmed up.

strategy400

Did you gap your plugs to spec? You know those are what make the fuel burn, right?

Gapping plugs is easy I did my last set while watching TV in the living room. Get the right tool its like $5 for the wire gauge set. Make sure the gauge set includes your specified gap. There's also a little electrode bending tool on most of the gauges I had to modify it a bit with a dremel to make it work right (in red).

Fear my paint skillz


Or you can just get the round ramp type tool and use it to open up the gap. The ramp type is probably fine for regular copper plugs.

Gap too small = not enough zap to ignite fuel properly.

Gap too big = misfire at high RPM.

oneEg1Tc

.
so what is the best gap size ? .44 ? i have it at .44 and what gas then 97,89 , 91 ?

motegicivic

Gap is .44, if you get ngk's they are set at .44

strategy400

If they are properly gapped then you have eliminated that as a possibility.

Carry on.

oneEg1Tc

so i forgot to update this thread and well wanted to help someone out having the same problem ,so car didn't have a thermostast ... cluster would read normal temp but coolant was not passing by so it was sending the wrong info to ecu it was reading the motor cold . thermostat was installed and passed with flying colors

motegicivic

After all that, and no thermostat?

And the gauge never read too cold?

The ECT sensor is what give the computer the temp info to run properly.

fleabag

What was the readings when the car finally passed? Btw, did you ever get around to replacing the PCV valve? If your valve is clogged, replacing it will improve performance and reduce the likelihood of damaging your piston rings by having blowby gasses blowing past them.


What he meant to say was that the car had no temperature sensor and or a working one. I recently got a civic with the exact same issue as the previous owner was too dumb to figure out the issue.

fleabag

That timing is wrong for a car with a D16Y7 engine. For the D16Y7, the ignition timing is suppose to be 12 degrees BTDC +/- 2 degrees. The 16 degrees BTDC +/- 3 degrees is for the B18 motors...

jcmotorsports1

I didn't get time to read all the responses to your smog issue. I'll toss in my 2 cents. Check the threads on the head. maybe a cross thread is keeping the plug from fully seating. leaving the symptoms of fresh fuel smell, white hot point plug tips and really poor fuel economy, and inconsistent high c/o levels. I'm surprised the smog tech was able to keep the vehicle anywhere near time without the ses light coming on?