D16 z6 IM fit on d16y7
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D16 z6 IM fit on d16y7
Does anyone know if the d16z6 IM will be a direct fit to the d16y7 engine/head. Will any wiring need to be done. I know with the y8 IM wirng needs to be done and holes to be plug. Is that the case with the Z6
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Re: D16 z6 IM fit on d16y7 (wdskuk)
It will fit, and as it is called a bolt on, is a pain. I got a d16y8 IM on my D16y7 engine. You'll have to get one from a automatic, as your IACV is still in your throttle body. you'll need a new throttle cable connector plate on the throttle, new gasket, drain coolant. Its a pain, but can be done. Search for a REAL install, as people make it OVER simplified, took me 6 hours to do (this included scraping off the gasket). Make sure to get a Helms manual, as this is ALMOST a necessity, but not really.
Wait, does this intake manifold got the Idle Air Control on the side? Also, is your IM a 96-98 or a 99-00, cause the 99-00 has air injection, and the z6 IM don't, but I'm sure something could be fabricated easily, like sharing a vacuum line, with a T joint or some ****.
Wait, does this intake manifold got the Idle Air Control on the side? Also, is your IM a 96-98 or a 99-00, cause the 99-00 has air injection, and the z6 IM don't, but I'm sure something could be fabricated easily, like sharing a vacuum line, with a T joint or some ****.
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Re: D16 z6 IM fit on d16y7 (Redline96LX)
My car is a 97 ek hatch. I read somewhere that someone on this board has done the the z6 IM installation on the y7 and it is a direct bolt because it doesn't have those opening holes on it while the Y8 does. Y8 is a bolt on also but wiring and connection needs to be done on it.
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Re: D16 z6 IM fit on d16y7 (wdskuk)
It's easy as fudge, i did mine in two, start to finish. you HAVE GOT TO have a helms or some honda repare manual, if you dont have one...your fucked. Its just a WISE investment , and you will have it forever =o) all 92-98 IM bolt right up and arn't a problem. like the guy said before, you'll have to **** with the throttle cabole. I have a y8 IM on a y7 head/block, I had no problems. You should probably get a y8 IM instead of a z6...there might be a few electrical problems, a z6 is OBD1 and your y7 is OBD2
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wdskuk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My car is a 97 ek hatch. I read somewhere that someone on this board has done the the z6 IM installation on the y7 and it is a direct bolt because it doesn't have those opening holes on it while the Y8 does. Y8 is a bolt on also but wiring and connection needs to be done on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
**** what you heard, you can just throw a y8 IM on a y7 with no problem, no fabrication. bolt on, plug in, taa daa!!! it works. your full of ****.
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Re: (wdskuk)
Go with the y8 intake manifold. If you run into any problems feel free to PM me. I've done a couple y8 intake manifolds onto y7s. Just make sure you get a 99-00 if you have a 99-00 car and a 96-98 mani if you have a car from those same years. There are extra air injection holes, and it's just more of a mess that you don't have to mess with if you don't need to.
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Re: (Ricey McRicerton)
Ok ive done two manifold swap, one on my car and one on a friends car. I did the 99 y8 with jb weld on all the air injection holes and such. Took 6 hours or so to trouble shoot and get the tb cable working right, but i got it there.
Then on my friends car we did the z6 IM, what a pain... The bottom center bolt we could barely get to with the tools that I have, which is alot. Then we had to drill out the y7 fuel rail to fit on the z6 IM, took forever aswell didnt have the right tools. Then finally around 3 am we extended the harness got it done started up, and ran into problems immediatly. One of us for got to tightly rap the wires with electrical tape, no heat shrink, so we fryed all the sensors as well. That sucked. Lesson learned, always have proper tools and supplys to finish a job.
And when tightening the IM down, go from the center and work your way out. If you need more infor just say so.
Then on my friends car we did the z6 IM, what a pain... The bottom center bolt we could barely get to with the tools that I have, which is alot. Then we had to drill out the y7 fuel rail to fit on the z6 IM, took forever aswell didnt have the right tools. Then finally around 3 am we extended the harness got it done started up, and ran into problems immediatly. One of us for got to tightly rap the wires with electrical tape, no heat shrink, so we fryed all the sensors as well. That sucked. Lesson learned, always have proper tools and supplys to finish a job.
And when tightening the IM down, go from the center and work your way out. If you need more infor just say so.
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