Jareeb

seems to run good. the exhaust note is lumpy. the cel comes on right after its starts. i think its code 4? or maybe code 5. i dont have a p28 yet and even with vtec unplugged i still get a cel light. drove it down the road and it runs really good. just not sure why the cel is on?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

If you aren't sure what the CEL actually is, how can we help you figure it out?

Figure out exactly what the code is. If you can't, post a video of it so we can help you with it. Also, all car information is required.

Jareeb

does the first flash count as one or is it just the fast flashes after that one that count as the code?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

All flashes count. Give this a read.

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...lists-1901557/

Since you aren't totally sure, let's play it safe here. Make a video of the code, and post it.

Jareeb

has to be code 14 then. but im going to take a video anyway.

Jareeb

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Video is private. Set it to unlisted so we can see it.

Jareeb

you should be able to see it now.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

looks like 10 and 14.

10 is your IAT - in this part diagram, it's #11. Should be on the back of your intake manifold. Make sure it's plugged in. Wires should be green/white and red/yellow, IIRC.



14 is your IACV. Part #17 in this diagram. Again, make sure it's there and plugged in. Wires should be blue/yellow and yellow/black, IIRC.



Given that they're both two pin sensors, and the plugs are the same, you might have them plugged into the wrong sensors.

Jareeb

that could be. cuz the idle isnt right. really the only issue it has. what are your thoughts on chipped p28 pcms from ebay? thanks for your help so far!

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Chip + eBay = quick way to ruin your motor. You can try to run it on a stock P28, or you can call up Xenocron and get a socketted ECU and a basemap to run on, or you can go all out, get a socketted ECU, and take it to a tuner to have them tune it properly. Cost and benefit will vary, from cheapest and worst (comparatively - it should still be functional on a stock P28) to most expensive (socketted ECU is about $100, tune varies, but expect around $500) and best.

Jareeb

switched the two plugs and it didnt make a difference. but i found that my intake is leaking by the number 4 runner. at the head. could this cause the cel? i will be fixing it either way.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Don't just switch plugs ***** nilly - check the wire colors, and make sure they're plugged into the correct sensors. If you go plugging the wrong sensor into the wrong place, you can burn out the sensor, or even worse, burn out the ECU. If your intake is leaking somewhere, it could cause the IACV code, but I don't think it would cause the IAT code.

Jareeb

i have to get a p28 pcm(know anyone selling one at a fair price?) but i understand what you mean. and ill check the colors of the wires. i reused the intake gasket, guess its what i had coming to me. haha also my car still has the original 94 honda ex wiring harness for the d16z6 engine. so what colors are current? also how could i tell if vtec is stuck on? the idle is lopey like it has a big cam.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

The lopey idle is probably related to one (or both) of your current CEL codes, and/or your intake leak. Fix those, and it should go away. Since you don't have a VTEC ECU yet, your VTEC can't be "stuck on" unless you did something to the VTEC wiring. The colors I posted for you should still be accurate.

Jareeb

okay. thank you. think if i use crank case sealer on both sides of the gasket it will hold? i think 15 bucks for a gasket is bs. or just the sealer by its self. i use it on my race scooter for the intake and crank case. its what the factory uses?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

No. It's a paper gasket. Replace it properly, or this problem is just going to keep biting you in the ***.

Jareeb

will do. thanks for all the help.

Jareeb

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

That lublublublub is most likely (like, 99% chance) caused by either the IACV code, or the intake leak you already know you have. Start off by fixing the leak. From there, we can get to the IACV, and then we can worry about the IAT.

Jareeb

that video is with the new intake gasket. and i guess i forgot the injector gaskets. but i put those in. the wire colors match for the IAT sensor. but not the IACV. those colors arent even close. i cant remember what they were tho.

Jareeb

found the right pigtail/harness. i guess its on its own loom and it fell down to where i didnt see it. it idles really good now. but cel is still on. how long does the bat have to be unhook to reset the pcm?

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

10 seconds? Also, I believe you can just remove the "back up" fuse in the engine bay instead of disconnecting the battery.

Jareeb

didnt seem to clear it. ill check the codes. now i just have to find a p28. seems impossible.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Xenocron Tuning: Chipped OBD1 VTEC Honda ECU. #[P28-Equiv]

Not that hard. Give them a call.

As for resetting the ECu, you can do it easily and instantly. After removing the fuse or disconnecting the battery, try to start the car. It obviously won't start, but that'll clear the residual power out of the capacitors, effectively resetting the ECU.