Coolant turned to sludgelike foam??
07-22-2005, 01:57 AM
#31
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Re: (upallnite)
This is turning into one big joke. 
Hurry and flush that **** (no pun intended) so people can tell you "nice job" instead of making jokes at your expense... if it bothers you, of course.
Hurry and flush that **** (no pun intended) so people can tell you "nice job" instead of making jokes at your expense... if it bothers you, of course.
07-22-2005, 07:02 AM
#32
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Re: (_Cyclone_)
The EK's d-series have metal head gaskets, but I know my D16Z6 has a paper type of headgasket. I am rebuilding it and I am going to be cold tanking the head and replacing the headgasket and head studs. Did you warp the head when you took it off? I like to take my time and unbolt it little by little to be extra careful. Some people go two turns per bolt, but I only do half or quarter turn. I have also heard of copper spray stuff that your suppost to coat the headgasket with before you put it on. Anybody know if this is a must? I am going to try it, and maybe you should give it a try.
07-22-2005, 07:14 AM
#33
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Re: Coolant turned to sludgelike foam?? (turbotime)
When you flush It, I would get one of those kits that hooks up to a garden hose that you leave the engine running and it pushes everything out that way. It would propably be the best way to get all that stuff out of the block and radiator.
07-22-2005, 07:43 AM
#34
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UPDATE:
Ok, i did a non-running engine flush, flsuhed the radiator, then pulled the thermostat and flushed the block and all. As we speak the hose is still out there flushing. Good news is gunk seemed to be isolated to mostly the resevoir and top of the radiator. When i pulled the lower rad hose fluid came out, and when i pulled the thero fluid came out as well (as opposed to gunk). I am flushing both now, i got the water running almost clear at this point.
If I connect everything back up, leave the thermo out and the top rad hose off... could i connect a garden hose to the top of the radiator (where the top rad hose would go) and leave water running then run the engine? This way the water pump would also help push **** out and the crab would just dump out the hose coming from the head that goes to teh top rad spot? Can i do this? I would just hold the hose to the top raditior inlet... lmk as ill do it but i dont wanna do anything to cause more damage.. although the car does run fine....
So lemme kno if i should try that ^ cause if so i wanna do it before i pull the head to check the guts of the thing... oh and when i pulled teh head the first time i did it in 1/2 turns in order, until i could finger-loosen
keep up the help! jokes can go tho
Ok, i did a non-running engine flush, flsuhed the radiator, then pulled the thermostat and flushed the block and all. As we speak the hose is still out there flushing. Good news is gunk seemed to be isolated to mostly the resevoir and top of the radiator. When i pulled the lower rad hose fluid came out, and when i pulled the thero fluid came out as well (as opposed to gunk). I am flushing both now, i got the water running almost clear at this point.
If I connect everything back up, leave the thermo out and the top rad hose off... could i connect a garden hose to the top of the radiator (where the top rad hose would go) and leave water running then run the engine? This way the water pump would also help push **** out and the crab would just dump out the hose coming from the head that goes to teh top rad spot? Can i do this? I would just hold the hose to the top raditior inlet... lmk as ill do it but i dont wanna do anything to cause more damage.. although the car does run fine....
So lemme kno if i should try that ^ cause if so i wanna do it before i pull the head to check the guts of the thing... oh and when i pulled teh head the first time i did it in 1/2 turns in order, until i could finger-loosen
keep up the help! jokes can go tho
07-22-2005, 07:51 AM
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Re: Coolant turned to sludgelike foam?? (turbotime)
yeah that my friend is oil.... you have a busted block or warped head/block. the only way for oil to get into your radiator is to get in to the coolant from a crack in the block..... hope you werent over revving that b16... good luck.
07-22-2005, 07:57 AM
#36
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ok lets clear some things up-
this is my dads car, never revved hard, its a d15b7, and my engine is being worked on (b17a1) by pros
wasted too much loot on that to **** it up myself.
Anyway, ok so what about the running engine flush?
if you let me kno if thatll work ill do that and then go ge ta new headgasket (felpro), thermo, and some of that copper spray and pull the head
this is my dads car, never revved hard, its a d15b7, and my engine is being worked on (b17a1) by pros
wasted too much loot on that to **** it up myself.Anyway, ok so what about the running engine flush?
if you let me kno if thatll work ill do that and then go ge ta new headgasket (felpro), thermo, and some of that copper spray and pull the head
07-22-2005, 08:33 AM
#37
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (turbotime)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok lets clear some things up-
this is my dads car, never revved hard, its a d15b7, and my engine is being worked on (b17a1) by pros wasted too much loot on that to **** it up myself.
Anyway, ok so what about the running engine flush?
if you let me kno if thatll work ill do that and then go ge ta new headgasket (felpro), thermo, and some of that copper spray and pull the head</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I worked at a mechanics shop (I was the helper monkey) and they use to disconnect the top hose, put the water hose in there and then the lower hose wold push the water out of the top of the rad. Just remember that it always need water, so don't let it run dry or things will get hot quick. A car can run on straight water, it's a must on older vehicles at the drag strip. I have never done this before and still don't really like the concept. It's risky, so maybe get someone who has done it to give you the low down. I just don't want you doing it, then really overheating and have me be at fualt. Try calling a mechanic and I am sure they will tell you what to do.
this is my dads car, never revved hard, its a d15b7, and my engine is being worked on (b17a1) by pros
wasted too much loot on that to **** it up myself.Anyway, ok so what about the running engine flush?
if you let me kno if thatll work ill do that and then go ge ta new headgasket (felpro), thermo, and some of that copper spray and pull the head</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I worked at a mechanics shop (I was the helper monkey) and they use to disconnect the top hose, put the water hose in there and then the lower hose wold push the water out of the top of the rad. Just remember that it always need water, so don't let it run dry or things will get hot quick. A car can run on straight water, it's a must on older vehicles at the drag strip. I have never done this before and still don't really like the concept. It's risky, so maybe get someone who has done it to give you the low down. I just don't want you doing it, then really overheating and have me be at fualt. Try calling a mechanic and I am sure they will tell you what to do.
07-22-2005, 10:04 AM
#38
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UPDATE:
just got a backflush kit and some "super flush" about to do the backflush, then new thermostat and headgasket, and head bolts also gonna lay down some copper spray as suggested
just got a backflush kit and some "super flush" about to do the backflush, then new thermostat and headgasket, and head bolts also gonna lay down some copper spray as suggested
07-22-2005, 10:22 AM
#39
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Re: (turbotime)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">UPDATE:
just got a backflush kit and some "super flush" about to do the backflush, then new thermostat and headgasket, and head bolts also gonna lay down some copper spray as suggested</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, my brother did a engine rebuild and really suggested that people use it more with their headgaskets.
just got a backflush kit and some "super flush" about to do the backflush, then new thermostat and headgasket, and head bolts also gonna lay down some copper spray as suggested</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, my brother did a engine rebuild and really suggested that people use it more with their headgaskets.
07-22-2005, 11:00 AM
#40
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Re: (Bond)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpkelly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You replaced the head studs too didn't you? OEM headstuds can only be used once since they stretch. ARP ones must be retorqued after some usage but I believe are re-usable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Was waiting on that statement.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moto1320 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I haven't ever seen a Honda headgasket leaking externally. Working for the dealer for years that puts my head under the hood of thousands of them...Sooooo, the good and bad news is that the head is probably not warped because you changed the gasket when the leak was most likely elsewhere. If the head was warped that bad before you changed the gasket you would have been overheating like a **** and blowing white smoke out of your exhaust like a mosquito fogger. I would bet it's on upside down and/or it's the aftermarket parts that got you. Get an OEM gasket and roll up your sleeves. i would also get a new radiator, thermostat, reservoir, and flush the living hell out of your block and heater core. Good luck man, I haven't ever seen anything like that on a honda. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The 98 era accods have this problem, calls for a new block.
__________________________________________________ ___
Get new studs and oem head gasket.
Was waiting on that statement.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moto1320 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I haven't ever seen a Honda headgasket leaking externally. Working for the dealer for years that puts my head under the hood of thousands of them...Sooooo, the good and bad news is that the head is probably not warped because you changed the gasket when the leak was most likely elsewhere. If the head was warped that bad before you changed the gasket you would have been overheating like a **** and blowing white smoke out of your exhaust like a mosquito fogger. I would bet it's on upside down and/or it's the aftermarket parts that got you. Get an OEM gasket and roll up your sleeves. i would also get a new radiator, thermostat, reservoir, and flush the living hell out of your block and heater core. Good luck man, I haven't ever seen anything like that on a honda. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The 98 era accods have this problem, calls for a new block.
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Get new studs and oem head gasket.
07-22-2005, 11:30 AM
#41
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which hose is the coolant inlet hose:
one going from firewall to thermostat
or
one going from firewall to cylinder head
i got a flush kit and i need to splice this T into one of those 2 lines, not sure which is the inlet (one its supposed to be spliced into)
please help
one going from firewall to thermostat
or
one going from firewall to cylinder head
i got a flush kit and i need to splice this T into one of those 2 lines, not sure which is the inlet (one its supposed to be spliced into)
please help
07-22-2005, 12:44 PM
#42
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Re: (turbotime)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">UPDATE:
just got a backflush kit and some "super flush" about to do the backflush, then new thermostat and headgasket, and head bolts also gonna lay down some copper spray as suggested</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe you should check the head for warpage before putting that all on again.
(and think about some ARP studs, so you can reuse them, cuz it sounds like you do head swaps alot).
just got a backflush kit and some "super flush" about to do the backflush, then new thermostat and headgasket, and head bolts also gonna lay down some copper spray as suggested</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe you should check the head for warpage before putting that all on again.
(and think about some ARP studs, so you can reuse them, cuz it sounds like you do head swaps alot).
07-22-2005, 05:01 PM
#44
Honda-Tech Member
inlet?
anything going to/from the firewall is just dealing with your heater anyways..
my guess is the one going to your head is the inlet
just a guess though
anything going to/from the firewall is just dealing with your heater anyways..
my guess is the one going to your head is the inlet
just a guess though
07-22-2005, 05:03 PM
#45
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Re: (turbotime)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">which is the inlet hose jesus can anyone answer my question</TD></TR></TABLE>
The one leading into the firewall is simply for your heater core. The hose is about half the size and you should see the hose going in and another coming out. I would suggest putting the heat in the car all the way up so the heater core gets a nice flush too. Generally the inlet hose is the top hose going from the rad to block. Just remember it flows from the rad->Block->heater core or back to rad. Hope that helped.
The one leading into the firewall is simply for your heater core. The hose is about half the size and you should see the hose going in and another coming out. I would suggest putting the heat in the car all the way up so the heater core gets a nice flush too. Generally the inlet hose is the top hose going from the rad to block. Just remember it flows from the rad->Block->heater core or back to rad. Hope that helped.
07-22-2005, 09:16 PM
#48
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Re: (eg94civic)
do not use copper spray. OEM doesn't use it and neither should you, read around a bit and you will see more problems than solutions have come from it.
