B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2_Fella &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you think any autopart stores carries them? if not, i will look into harbor freight.
could you show me a picture of it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

$21.00 or so:



Link where I found it - CLICK ME

That exact one might not be THE one you need, but it looks just like it with the exception of maybe the adapters not fitting a Honda style radiator.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not at all, i don't mind spending the lil extra $ to do the right thing. after calling many shops around, i happened to stumble through this one shop 12 miles radius from my place. he said he would "test" it for free. i don't know what kind of test he is talking about. and i asked him again if it's free, he said "yes." he said he just need 20 mins of my time. other shops try to charge me between $50-$100 just to test it. i will come back and update this as soon as i get back home.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My shop would charge $58.00 for diagnosis, but waive the fee if we did any repairs to the vehicle. Free is more than fair, but I'm curious as to how they're checking it out.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one more thing:

some shops ask if i wanted to "adjust the valve." what does that mean? is it a have to? will it improve anything? that thing cost more than a $100.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Most common thing being referred to when they say "adjust valve" almost sounds like "adjust valves" in the cylinder head, which has zero affect on running hot or having coolant flowing into overflow, but not back the engine.

I mean there is a heater control valve on the firewall which has coolant running through it and into the heater core, but again that has nothing to do with the overflow bottle.


Modified by B18C5-EH2 at 3:33 PM 6/20/2008

G2_Fella

*quick update*

did not do it today. will go tomorrow.

BlackDeuceCoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2_Fella &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*quick update*

did not do it today. will go tomorrow.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I am the King of Avoidance & Procrastination!!!

You will NEVER beat me at the A&P Game...

philly91crx

Take it to a shop to diagnose it...I know at Pepboys they have a kit in the shop where they put a solution in what looks like a turkey baster and squeeze it into where the radiator cap goes. If it sucks up any traces of hydrocarbons it will turn a different color.

G2_Fella

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philly91crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take it to a shop to diagnose it...I know at Pepboys they have a kit in the shop where they put a solution in what looks like a turkey baster and squeeze it into where the radiator cap goes. If it sucks up any traces of hydrocarbons it will turn a different color.</TD></TR></TABLE> dude, you got to me kind of late. but better late than never. i will call pep boys up and see what they say.

that's exactly what the shop did for me. exactly the same!

G2_Fella

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but I'm curious as to how they're checking it out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

*UPDATE*

well, i went through the process. that place was 21 miles away, not 12 as to what i stated before.

good and bad news:

the good news is i know what the problem is...it's the freakin HEADGASKET!

and the bad news is...be prepare for a load of cash to flow. it's going to be deep in the pocket. i was gonna buy new tires for the summer. but freakin hg gotta take it away.

what the guy did was, he used some kind of tube(like philly mentioned) he warmed the car up for 5 mins and put it in the radiator neck. the blue liquid quickly turned green. he said, "blown headgasket." i said, "are you positive?" he said, "yep." i said, "what about a block test?" he said, "that is a block test." oohh i get it now..."Hydrocarbon" is the same as "Block" test. compression test is different and leak down test is different.(before the test i asked him what is the testing call-Hydrocarbon)

i might not get it fix at his shop. all i want to "know" is if i have a blown hg. it was free of charge. B18C5-EH2, how much would your shop charge for that?

i asked him about the valves. he said i should go ahead and have the machine shop adjust it because my car is getting close to 200k miles. i really do understand the guy a lot and many thanks to the posters here, especially B18C5. i'm trying to learn and save money.

i do know a mobile mechanic that's gonna charge me 150 for labor but i'm going to see if i can bargain him down to 100. i called honda for hg kit and it's 200+, and to resurface the head and adjust the valves 200+. plus oil, oil filter, coolant. this would be close to 6. i'm trying to fight for 450 or at least 5.

hg kit are weird. some auto parts price are close to the dealer price and some are way too low, like 60 bucks. what do you guys think? should i buy the cheapest one? since i bought the car, most of the parts are oem maintained.

what about machine shop, is any machine shops good? what should i look for?

BlackDeuceCoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2_Fella &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[1] i do know a mobile mechanic that's gonna charge me 150 for labor but i'm going to see if i can bargain him down to 100. i called honda for hg kit and it's 200+, and to resurface the head and adjust the valves 200+. plus oil, oil filter, coolant. this would be close to 6. i'm trying to fight for 450 or at least 5.

[2] hg kit are weird. some auto parts price are close to the dealer price and some are way too low, like 60 bucks. what do you guys think? should i buy the cheapest one? since i bought the car, most of the parts are oem maintained.

[3] what about machine shop, is any machine shops good? what should i look for?</TD></TR></TABLE>


1) Everything, at least around here (Arizona), costs $850 to fix...

A/C compressor replacement - $850
CV/axle replacement - $850
Complete brake job - $850
HG replacement - $850

This is the new mechanic's mantra - $850 and "We take credit cards."

2) If it was me, I'd go with a Fel-Pro kit - not OEM... Fel-Pro is the best IMHO!

3) Machine shops are a dime-a-dozen - finding a good one requires some research though!

Anybody can build a block - all you gotta do is make sure the cylinders are round and the piston rings seal...

Heads are a different matter, however - that's where all your power is made - and racers swap them out several times a season, to stay ahead of the competition! That's where ALL the innovation is...

Personally, when I have head work done, I find a place that works on circle-trackers, sprint cars, half-milers, and such. These guys know all the latest 'tricks', are setup to perform same - and used to dealing with genuine racing parts, high lift cams, yada, yada, yada.

If you just wanna use a regular meat n' potatoes machine shop, look for one where you can eat off the floor. Good machinists HATE to work in a pig sty, and a filthy shop indicates sloppy work ethics...

G2_Fella

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlackDeuceCoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


1) Everything, at least around here (Arizona), costs $850 to fix...

A/C compressor replacement - $850
CV/axle replacement - $850
Complete brake job - $850
HG replacement - $850

This is the new mechanic's mantra - $850 and "We take credit cards."

2) If it was me, I'd go with a Fel-Pro kit - not OEM... Fel-Pro is the best IMHO!

3) Machine shops are a dime-a-dozen - finding a good one requires some research though!

Anybody can build a block - all you gotta do is make sure the cylinders are round and the piston rings seal...

Heads are a different matter, however - that's where all your power is made - and racers swap them out several times a season, to stay ahead of the competition! That's where ALL the innovation is...

Personally, when I have head work done, I find a place that works on circle-trackers, sprint cars, half-milers, and such. These guys know all the latest 'tricks', are setup to perform same - and used to dealing with genuine racing parts, high lift cams, yada, yada, yada.

If you just wanna use a regular meat n' potatoes machine shop, look for one where you can eat off the floor. Good machinists HATE to work in a pig sty, and a filthy shop indicates sloppy work ethics...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i'm not surprise at all. some of the labors are ridiculous,,,3-4 hundred bucks just on labor. yep, i had that happened to me recently; "i do take credit cards." when the f**k did they came up wit that?(mobile mech)

i was thinking pretty strong on the fel-pro too. i like the way its state its ad. and the name too. but i'm leaning more towards the dealer one.

today is sunday and all the machine shops are close and my mechanic is off. i will put in work first thing tomorrow morning. and hope my mech give me the hundred dollar on the labor. =fingers crossed=

i'm just a regular joe that wants quality at a good price and doesn't like to get rip off. especially with today's economy, it's even harder.

i will definately keep you guys up to dated. this thread will live til i get my hg done.

B18C5-EH2

My shop would not do the head gasket job. We have tried to do just the head gasket in the past, and even with AMPLE warnings given to customers when some of them smoked they pitched holy terror bitch fits, and we've stopped doing them altogether. Sometimes when you try to save the customer money (by doing the head gasket job rather than engine swap) you end up screwing yourself and still looking like the bad guy.

If I were you I'd buy another engine and ask that mechanic of yours how much to install the entire engine instead.

This of course is just one opinion.

BlackDeuceCoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My shop would not do the head gasket job. We have tried to do just the head gasket in the past, and even with AMPLE warnings given to customers when some of them smoked they pitched holy terror bitch fits, and we've stopped doing them altogether...</TD></TR></TABLE>


Classic Example

I was going to reference this post in the other thread, but...

I think it makes more sense to reference the other post in this thread!

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlackDeuceCoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Classic Example</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah see I'm not making this stuff up.

King V

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If I were you I'd buy another engine and ask that mechanic of yours how much to install the entire engine instead.

This of course is just one opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I like that one, as a HG job costs about the same and involves about the same amount of labor time as an engine swap. Plus you can either sell the old engine, keep it for spare parts(what I would do) or build the snot out of it as you now have a "spare". B18C5-EH2

SinsEvil666

QUOTE, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »

There's a couple of different symptons a blown head gasket will exhibit, and filling the overflow bottle up is definately one of them.
It's not uncommon in hot climates to see the level in that bottle fluctuate, but if it fills up some then other times it should be below the max line too.

If it keeps filling itself up after you dump out the excess then I'd say chances are you've got a blown head gasket.

One final test could confrim it, and quite possibly fix another issue if it's not a head gasket.

Tool companies sell funnels that screw into your radiator like a radiator cap. You screw it on, pour coolant/water into it about halfway so that your cooling system is full, and there is some coolant visible in the funnel.

Crank the car and allow the cooling fans to cycle a few times. Normal vehicle will purge bubbles up through the funnel until the fans cycle a few times. the bubbles are normal, and this is a great way to bleed out all trapped air in the system. Make sure vehicle is on level ground, or even have front raised slightly.

IF the fans cycle a few times and you still have bubbles then you've got a blown head gasket. This is a 100% positive way to diagnose, and that would explain the overflow.

If during this diagnosis the fans do not cycle, or your lower radiator hose doesn't get hot, then you've got other issues causing the pressures to build up enough to fill the overflow bottle.

Good luck.

QUOTE


After how many times after the fan cycle would u say its definately the Head gasket if indeed there is still bubbles coming out? i fear my head gasket is going bad....i rarely and sometimes see a little amount of oil coming from the hg right in the corner of where the engine code is at.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After how many times after the fan cycle would u say its definately the Head gasket if indeed there is still bubbles coming out? i fear my head gasket is going bad....i rarely and sometimes see a little amount of oil coming from the hg right in the corner of where the engine code is at. </TD></TR></TABLE>

After fans cycle a few times, 2 or 3, if there are still bubbles you have a blown head gasket if the t-stat is opening and the fans cycle normally.

Oil won't leak from your HG there - it's probably distributor, distributor o-ring, or if a VTEc engine the VTEC valve gasket(s). It sure looks like the oil leaks from that corner, but really get to looking and you'll see it's coming from up high, running down, and simply collecting at that corner.

SinsEvil666

Thanx alot b18.....i have b16a, i will go ahead and look more carefully to see where exactly the oil is coming out from, hopefully it is nothing big. is the funnel neccessary to dianose it? or can i possibly try it with simply leaving the radiator cap off? i know my fan cycles normaly, and when i turn off my car, i squeeze the top radiator hose....and i can hear the t-stat open, i would say thats fine. But either way, if i want to bleed all the air out of the cooling system...would leaving the radiator cap off for about 2-3 fan cycles work?

Thanx again.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SinsEvil666 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanx alot b18.....i have b16a, i will go ahead and look more carefully to see where exactly the oil is coming out from, hopefully it is nothing big. is the funnel neccessary to dianose it? or can i possibly try it with simply leaving the radiator cap off? i know my fan cycles normaly, and when i turn off my car, i squeeze the top radiator hose....and i can hear the t-stat open, i would say thats fine. But either way, if i want to bleed all the air out of the cooling system...would leaving the radiator cap off for about 2-3 fan cycles work?

Thanx again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can try with just the cap off, but it could get messy and it's a lot harder to see the bubbles that way.

Also the easiest way to see if the t-stat opens is by checking the lower radiator hose - if it's almost as hot as the upper hose after the temp guage gets at operating temp then it's open, but chances are if your fan(s) cycle normally then the t-stat is opening too since the thermoswitch for the fans is after the t-stat.

G2_Fella

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philly91crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take it to a shop to diagnose it...I know at Pepboys they have a kit in the shop where they put a solution in what looks like a turkey baster and squeeze it into where the radiator cap goes. If it sucks up any traces of hydrocarbons it will turn a different color.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i called pepboys they wanted to charge me 30 bucks. luckily i save myself $ on that.

G2_Fella

*UPDATE*

it's wednesday morning. no more looking around for machine shops for me. i'am so tired running around town and shopping for mobile mechanics online.

i have more than one regular mechanic. one works at home only and one is mobile. the one that works at home charge 150 for labor. the mobile one, which i thought charges 150 for labor said he never quoted anybody for 150. he wants 250. but he said if i let him do everything, it'll cost me 450 parts and labor. that's a pretty good deal i think. but i don't think he would use honda oem gasket kit. this guy is known to use aftermarket parts. i did asked him if he would use honda kit for me, he said yes. but i doubt it. either he would say more than 450 or just slap it on and say aftermarket would be fine...don't worry.

if you guys want to know where do i find these mechanics. i found them online. except for the first 2 mechanics. they been my mechanic for years and found them through word of mouth.

i'am in the market for new mechanics. i have found plenty. but are they any good? can you trust them? if you're wondering where do i find these mechanics, you can find them at craigslist, craigslist is the place to be. i found like 15-20 different mobile mehanics. some of them quoted me 500-1000 parts and labor. and for just labor only, prices ranges from 150-500. most of the average labor prices were 200-250. i'm ok with 150 but i have a feeling that i could find 100, but how well the job be done?

i'am done with machine shops. the lowest i could find is 120 with a complete valve job. i must've went to like 6-7 different machine shops. man, i don't think i can work in those enviroment! it is so hot and stuffy. some shops i never knew was there close to the grocery store where i always shop and passed by. out of all the cars i've owned, i've never had a blown head gasket before. if this didn't happen, i wouldn't even know what a auto machine shops look like. always different things happened to different cars(of mine.)

i decided to go ahead and ordered the hg kit from honda online. i called all the honda dealers in my county, none of them have them in stock. and the prices were from 210-270. f**k that, so god damn exspensive. so i remember people on here talked about hondaautomotiveparts.com. i checked it it out and it was 165 shipped. i hurried the f**k up and ordered it with the quickness. i don't need to be running around wasting gas on this pos. now got that out of the way.

all i need to know now is which mechanic i can rely on for a good price. if not i will have to go back to plan A. my home mechanic does a good job at a decent price but only thing is i don't like to park my car at other people's house. plus he have twins that i see be scratching customer cars and even mine too! they don't mean to scratch it but you know how lil kids are. they're trying to be like their dad already...a mechanic.

so hopefully i can find a mechanic by later this week and hopefully the parts come through by friday or monday.

i'll definately keep you guys updated.


Modified by G2_Fella at 4:21 PM 6/25/2008

B18C5-EH2

Please do yourself a favor and at least take the cylinder head to a machine shop and pay them to at the very least mill the head. This insures flatness. If you have the extra coin a pressure test is also a good idea as you could be paying your mechanic to reinstall a milled, but cracked and leaky cylinder head.

...then once it still shows signs of a blown head gasket it's you vs. mechanic. Having the head milled and checked would at least tell more of the story.

Also make sure this mechanic uses a machinists ruler to check for flatness on the cylinder block deck surface. It's not as exact as having a machine shop check a bare block, but if it's uneven in the least bit your mechanic should stop there and you'd need to buy an engine.

Good luck man. I hope my gut feeling is wrong about you doing an entire engine rather than a head gasket job.

G2_Fella

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please do yourself a favor and at least take the cylinder head to a machine shop and pay them to at the very least mill the head. This insures flatness. If you have the extra coin a pressure test is also a good idea as you could be paying your mechanic to reinstall a milled, but cracked and leaky cylinder head.

...then once it still shows signs of a blown head gasket it's you vs. mechanic. Having the head milled and checked would at least tell more of the story.

Also make sure this mechanic uses a machinists ruler to check for flatness on the cylinder block deck surface. It's not as exact as having a machine shop check a bare block, but if it's uneven in the least bit your mechanic should stop there and you'd need to buy an engine.

Good luck man. I hope my gut feeling is wrong about you doing an entire engine rather than a head gasket job.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wait a minute...so my symptoms is not a blown hg yet? then what is it then?

it's either me or the mechanic that's going to take the head to the machine shop. if he can find a price lower than mine, then i would let him take it. right now the lowest i know are $120 for a complete head that included with the valve job.

i understand that there are 3 different levels? here are the basics:

1) clean, and surface.

2) clean, surface, and pressure test.

3) clean, surface, pressure test, and valve job.

i opted for level 3. which will cost me $120

i have two questions:

is it ok for me to drive the car for now, even though it's been having a hg problem before i even knew about it. what worse can happen?

would a mechanic charge me extra for putting on a clutch? i figure since the head will be taken out, would it be more easier for him to install the clutch. i might have to ask him this.

BlackDeuceCoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2_Fella &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wait a minute...so my symptoms is not a blown hg yet? then what is it then?</TD></TR></TABLE>


A blown HG is usually symptomatic of a larger problem...

HGs don't just blow 'cause they get old - like tires, batteries, windshield wipers, spark plugs and such!

Unfortunately, you cannot Magnaflux an aluminum head and check it for cracks, so you're taking a calculated risk - maybe the HG is fine - but you can at least have your mechanic mill the head and check the block for flatness - that's all he's saying!

Er...

Correct me if I'm wrong, Tom.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2_Fella &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wait a minute...so my symptoms is not a blown hg yet? then what is it then?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No I was saying that if you don't have your current head milled/checked while it's out and that mechanic does the HG job and it still shows symptoms of a blown HG (after he is done) then it's your word vs. his, and he could say that you didn't get the proper head work done and that's why the job didn't work out.

If you get the head milled and pressure tested and it passes then if the HG job doesn't work out it would likely be due to installation error or parts used in the HG job.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i understand that there are 3 different levels? here are the basics:

1) clean, and surface.

2) clean, surface, and pressure test.

3) clean, surface, pressure test, and valve job.

i opted for level 3. which will cost me $120</TD></TR></TABLE>

$120.00 seems cheap enough. My only concern again is doing a valve job and sealing the head up nice and tight, which can lead to bottom end smoking if the bottom end isn't already heat compromised anyways.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it ok for me to drive the car for now, even though it's been having a hg problem before i even knew about it. what worse can happen?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would not drive it. Yeah it could get worse. the head/block deck surfaces can warp worse if it overheats, and the coolant/oil passages could become compromised and start mixing oil and coolant which means that the bottom end gets ruined due to it being "lubricated" with a watered-down version of engine oil, and oil coats anything that should only have coolant in it such as the heater core, coolant passages, etc.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would a mechanic charge me extra for putting on a clutch? i figure since the head will be taken out, would it be more easier for him to install the clutch. i might have to ask him this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The head has nothing to do with the clutch at all actually. They are two completely independant jobs. More logical would be supplying a timing belt/water pump package while he's got the head off though. Shouldn't be much extra labor.

If you think you need a clutch dude seriously buy an engine instead of doing a high-risk HG job!!! While the engine is being swapped there is no extra labor for a clutch install. Kill two birds with one stone, and not worry about if the HG is gonna hold, or if the bottom end is going to hold up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlackDeuceCoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


A blown HG is usually symptomatic of a larger problem...

HGs don't just blow 'cause they get old - like tires, batteries, windshield wipers, spark plugs and such!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right. They usually blow due to an underlying overheating issue. It could be something as simple as a coolant leak from a $10.00 hose, and once the engine gets overheated badly enough even one time the damage is already done. It could be a bad cooling fan, or a bad t-stat - you can fix those issues, but if the HG is blown it's done.

If you're dead-set on paying a guy to just do a HG job you need to stress to him that you're not sure what other cooling system problem caused the blown HG. The mechanic NEEDS to make sure that he checks the cooling fans anf t-stat operation before he says the job is done. If the root of the overheating isn't fixed then that new HG will pop ASAP.

G2_Fella

ok here's a quick memo:

ordered oem gasket kit for $165 - got that out of the way.

found 2 machine shops that could do a complete head for $120.

found 2 mechanics off of CL for $100!

kit will be here by tuesday. i hope it comes in by monday, friday is the big holiday(4th of july).

hopefully the mechanic can get it right and not do me wrong. i really want my car fix before friday.

G2_Fella

UPDATE:

mechanic came and took out the head on the 1st of July. next day took the head in the machine shop, machinist was nice enough to deducted 10 out of 120 cus he said the head is smaller than what he'd thought. wished it was done the same day cus he got it done in less than 3 hours.

only reason it was delay til friday was because of the freakin hg kit from Fedex. they didn't delivered it until 5:16 pm yesterday(pissed me off.) i wanted to drop off the seals to the machine shop and assure my mechanic i have it by 4:30 pm. nope... it did not go my way. mechanic went to another appointment and machine shop was closed at 5:30 pm.

i'm just parlaying at home today and resting, and relaxing. mechanic will come by tomorrow morning and hopefully get it fix by noon.

P.S. is it normal to see oil and black grease on the gasket? i ordered it from hondaautomotiveparts.com

94EG8

I know its already been said on here before and i know you've already gone ahead with this, but putting a hg in a D15B8 is a waste of money, i've never seen them last, i put one in my D15B7, checked the head to make sure it wasn't warped, bought a new hg and new head bolts from honda, cleaned everything up, torqued with a properly calibrated snap on torque wrench, put everything else back together and fired it up, immediately started smoking, BAD, after that it burnt around 3L of oil a day, i could go to work full of oil, drive a bit for work, maybe 30 kms and drive home, check the oil and the dipstick would be dry and the oil light would be flickering, drove that for a week, picked up another D15B7 from a junkyard, it smoked when i put it in, ran it for 6000kms and blew the hg in that, hauled the head off and it head a fel-pro gasket, pulled the engine and dropped in a JDM D15B vtec and haven't looked back