rustydusty1717

just did a compression test on my b16 and it read 135 across all cylinders. they're all the same so i'm guessing that's good. now whats the car suppost to be hot or cold when i did it? i've also heard that you're suppost to have your foot on the gas pedal. is this true also?

turbojdmhatch

dood its suppose to be above 200psi for a b16

rustydusty1717

that's why i asked if the car was suppost to be hot or cold and if i was suppost to press on the gas. but it read the same on all cylinders so i'm guessing it's fine and i just didn't do the test 100% correct

2wheelhunter

running temp full throttle

rustydusty1717

that would explain it. would it be alright to assume that if it was same across all cylinders when the motor was just warm not running tempature tempature that it's fine? or should i do the test again with the car at tempature and full throttle?

2wheelhunter

still a little low.. i would try again under the correct conditions make sure u crank it 5-6 times at least

rustydusty1717

okay will do. thanks for all the help everyone

crick_james

yep, thats a lil low my firend

DTA-Zombie

low as hell...redo it - even when mine was cold I got at least 160-180 across all cylinders you should be near 200

EkFG

make sure your not getting fuel in the cylinders when your doing that. before you do it again have the car at operating temp and when doing the test (when Cranking have your throttle at WOT)...if you still get low numbers do a leak down test.

crick_james

make sure u undo your dizzy as well because if you dont you may burn it up.. correct me if im wrong.

SinsEvil666

I just did a compression test on my b16a2, i got all About 210 on all four while the car overnight cold and i did not have it at WOT. Also, some gauges might read different if im not mistaken.

But this is exactly what to do when your doing it.

1. Drive car around for a better reading (higher numbers as it expands the rings and stuff when hot) I did it while cold
2. Unplug your distributor Plugs (i took of both that i had in mine) MUST - This will prevent any shock or killing your ECU i believe.
3. Take off fuse 15 on the engine bay fuse box. MUST - This will prevent any gas to be sprayed in the cylinder while cranking the car
4. Remove the spark plug cables from the spark plugs (not the dizzy)
5. Remove all 4 Spark Plugs (Recommended to place each spark plug from where it came out from) I'd Say it's a Must just incase
5. Starting at Cylinder 1 (Furthest to the right while infront of the car facing engine continuing going left through 2, 3, and 4th cylinder WHILE Keeping your car at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). I forgot this step on mine.
6.On my car, the gauge stopped moving at 4 revolutions on cylinder 1, so i kept it at 4 revolutions through-out all four cylinders. Gave me Almost the same number all across which was 210.


Modified by SinsEvil666 at 10:51 AM 9/16/2008

rustydusty1717

maybe my gauge is wrecked or just sucks. the more i cranked the motor the more it showed. but i did it 5-6 cranks on each one and they all came up low. i'm using just a crappy tire gauge so that could be the problem. but it did register the same on all cylinders so even if something is wrong it shouldn't be anything more than a head gasket which i'm replacing shortly anyways so i can run more boost. if i got different on all cylinders then i should be worried right? someone correct me if i'm wrong.

SinsEvil666

yea from what i know, if ur numbers are all equal or close enough then ur bottom end should be ok...but as far as such low numbers, since u just mentioned boost....did u build the bottom end for boost? (Low Compression forged internals?)

rustydusty1717

bone stock b16. only been boosting it for 4 months. and only on 6 psi for now. reason i'm doing is a compression test is to see if i need to do more than a headgasket or not.