DanB93

As I came to a stop the other day I put the clutch all the way to the floor, something popped and it would no longer go into gear, luckily I've driven without a clutch before! I've had the gearbox off twice now to check everything (what a nightmare!) because I thought the clutch fork cracked/snapped, but it's fine, along with the release bearing. The diaphragm springs also looked fine. One thing I didn't do was remove the pressure plate to check that a spring hadn't come out from the friction disc and wedged itself against the flywheel, since I've seen a few threads where this has happened, possible? I've re-bled the system, re-built the master and tried adjusting the mc rod throw on the clutch pedal, all to no avail.
The hydraulics still move the slave rod and fork okay, roughly an inch and before I ripped it all apart it would only go into reverse (with a crunch and a bang). I can start it in gear with the clutch down but it creeps so the clutch just doesn't disengage fully.
Do you have any other ideas? I'm well and truly stuck.

Thanks.

apexi_rsx

u sure the clutch disc itself isn't shot and has no more clutch left ive seen this before and it wouldn't move on its own power outta no where

95Sedan

yeah sounds like you could have blew the disc off the plate, happend to me and sucked.

carlos8

^^ as said check the disc for loosen or broken pads.

Not in Honda but my Rotary drag car several times has Damage the pressure plate diaphragm binding one or two forks and the most that happen is the disc blows the splines in the center hub. Sometimes it make a shattering sound or squeals.

DanB93

Clutch dissembled and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it, where the hell do i go from here?!

carlos8

check the fork against other maybe is bended.

If the disc is fine, double check the P.P. Diaphragm sometimes they lose the pressure by binding uniformly the forks to the inside barely noticeable by the eye.

This is taking your word as the hydraulic system is working 100%.

95Sedan

How's the throw out bearing?
how are all the teeth on the pressure plate?
how are the springs in the clutch plate?
is the pedal firm?
Do you have a full clutch fluid res?

drain tranny fluid see if it has metal shavings in it, use a magnet

DanB93

Throw out bearing has no faults.
Don't know what you mean by teeth on the PP? Springs in clutch plate are all there and in one piece but not perfectly flat (only 1 or 2 mm between a couple of them - which the bearing would even out as soon as contact is made).
Pedal is firm all the way (except the few mm of slack at the top). I've tried adjusting the rod in various positions. There used to be a notch at the end of the travel which is no longer there (like when the clutch disengages and something moves - probably doesn't make sense to you).
Clutch fluid reservoir obviously has fluid in it, I've bled the system multiple times.
Tranny fluid was black, but clean. The problem isn't the gearbox however.

I've noticed that sometimes I can push the piston back into the slave cylinder and sometimes I can't, weird?

DanB93

Any ideas?

95Sedan

will it go into any gear?

anyone else think syncro is dead?

DanB93

Yes, all gears if rev-matched.
The problem is within the clutch between the salve and flywheel (the mechanical end).

DanB93

Process of elimination indicates pressure plate failure. It's an ACT Xtreme pp, damn expensive too!

apexi_rsx

over priced if u ask me ... I personally tried a yonaka clutch for the first time and it has been nothing but a good experience so far...ive also tried the XTD hit or miss one and it slipped a lot when I first got it and only lasted about 50k.

DanB93

The pressure plate was taken apart today by a specialist who found a crack. He said it's possible to weld it so that's the plan, has anyone heard of this being done before and if so, did it last?
I got a couple crappy pics:

apexi_rsx

its 50/50 it may last a while or it may last for a month that is the surface ur clutch disc rides on and has to be perfectly flat or it will chew discs or ruin the disc... I don't recommend it .. buy another clutch kit or find one used from here,FB group, craigslist

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Exedy OE clutch kits are like $100-120 on ebay. That's worth not having to take the trans off again.

DanB93

I can do a gearbox drop in an hour now so it's not too bad, this is the 4th time in a week it's been off!
I'll obviously grind the weld back flat where it needs to be, it's getting welded professionally.
If I were to use a replacement it's got to stand up to the power (roughly 325hp/225lb).

DanB93

I can't find a used replacement pressure plate anywhere and I'm not sure what the Exedy equivalent would be but the flywheel, friction plate and pressure plate all have to match so I'd rather stick with a combination I know works.

apexi_rsx

have to match? surface wise they do if u don't see any burns on the flywheel then jus buy a new clutch to throw in. a stage 3 clutch is all u need..

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

"Stage 3" means nothing. Look at the torque handling capacities of different clutches. For those power levels, a Competition Clutch 6 puck hub sprung would do nicely.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

You want to use a repaired pressure plate with a 300+hp setup? Seems like you've convinced yourself this is a rational thing to do. I still wouldn't do it. What kind of clutch are you using currently?

DanB93

I figure it's worth a go at £65 for the repair.
It's running an ACT Xtreme clutch (H025x).
If this repair doesn't work, what kit is recommended and where can I get it from? Ideally from the UK...

carlos8

Why do you not bought a h025 Heavy Duty (310 TQ) For $250-270 brand new, more than sufficient for your set up. (and is new)

The 65euro is $90.00 almost the half way, not to mention have to do the job again if the repair one fail.

Also Till few months ago I run a XTD stage 5 on my 404whp/289tq ls vtec turbo civic with out issues for more than a year and the price is $180-200.