Clutch not going into gear...
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Clutch not going into gear...
Well its a brand new clutch an tranny that i have so my doubts on it going bad are very low... It's been working perfectly fine since the swap about 3 months ago an since then i've pretty much babied it for the most part... I was driving over the bridge today an had it in third an went to go in fourth an my clutch pedal was like dead, it went straight to the floor an it wouldnt let me go in any gears... well i finally get it in 1st an my car started moving forward almost as if i were on the gas but i wasnt.... im stumped..... thanks in advance...
::edit:: Could it be slave or master cylinders???
Modified by JDM_SOHC at 8:14 AM 9/1/2006
::edit:: Could it be slave or master cylinders???
Modified by JDM_SOHC at 8:14 AM 9/1/2006
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Re: Clutch not going into gear... (JDM_SOHC)
hydraulic system. Either the master or slave cylinders aren't holding pressure on the clutch system. Replace both of them and it should solve your problem.
I say replace both, because if you only replace one, the other that may still be good, will fail if the other is stronger.
A tell-tale sign that one of the cylinders is failing is by looking in the clutch reservoir and seeing the fluid turning black from the corroding rubber seals.
The slave cylinder will be cake to put on while the master takes a few more minutes of patience to install, however you can definitely do it all yourself. Just don't forget to pick up extra brake fluid so you can refill the clutch lines after you install them.
I say replace both, because if you only replace one, the other that may still be good, will fail if the other is stronger.
A tell-tale sign that one of the cylinders is failing is by looking in the clutch reservoir and seeing the fluid turning black from the corroding rubber seals.
The slave cylinder will be cake to put on while the master takes a few more minutes of patience to install, however you can definitely do it all yourself. Just don't forget to pick up extra brake fluid so you can refill the clutch lines after you install them.
#4
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Re: (instrument)
definately sounds like the slave or master cyl.
and as stated, replace both at the same time.
the slave will be easier as its right on the front of the tranny.
the master is more difficult, but only because its a tighter area to work in.
i did mine before and without any previous experience with them
good luck
and as stated, replace both at the same time.
the slave will be easier as its right on the front of the tranny.
the master is more difficult, but only because its a tighter area to work in.
i did mine before and without any previous experience with them
good luck
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Re: (93cb7sedan)
yeah my fluid is like dark black color, it looks like water/vinegar mix... i can see brake fluid but theres like oil like black **** floating around in there looks kinda weird honestly... an yeah all my fluids are always up to date, i take extra good care of my ride thats why i got kinda stumped as to why it just out of no where did this.. and also, is there a way to tell which one is bad instead of just replacing both of them..?? i understand an agree i should do both at the same time but availability might be limited cuz i havent even began to search yet... I'm sure i could find both of'm though..
::edit::
Here are some pics i just took if they help any.... Thats lint on the under side of the master cylinder housing area, haha kinda looks like mold or something but its just like dusty lint type of **** lol...
Modified by JDM_SOHC at 10:18 AM 9/1/2006
::edit::
Here are some pics i just took if they help any.... Thats lint on the under side of the master cylinder housing area, haha kinda looks like mold or something but its just like dusty lint type of **** lol...
Modified by JDM_SOHC at 10:18 AM 9/1/2006
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Re: (sicones)
i take it thats why all that grease is everywhere..??? i figured it was just overlubricated but im not to much of a genius when it comes to brake/clutch parts...
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Re: (sicones)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your master cylinder it totaly shot </TD></TR></TABLE>
so would just replacing my master cylinder be fine if my slave cylinder is fairly new..??
so would just replacing my master cylinder be fine if my slave cylinder is fairly new..??
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Re: (JJDrivesAJazz)
what if ur tires were more like 80% though.. i just put new slave cylinder about 3 months ago, and i highly doubt its wear an tear is the same as a tire.. c'mon let's be a little more accurate im only asking for help...
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Re: (JDM_SOHC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so would just replacing my master cylinder be fine if my slave cylinder is fairly new..??</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it's fairly new as in less than a few months old, it should be fine. Anything more may fail under the pressure of the other. It's good to have them replaced at the same time so that they wear evenly.
so would just replacing my master cylinder be fine if my slave cylinder is fairly new..??</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it's fairly new as in less than a few months old, it should be fine. Anything more may fail under the pressure of the other. It's good to have them replaced at the same time so that they wear evenly.
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Re: (Russ713)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Russ713 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If it's fairly new as in less than a few months old, it should be fine. Anything more may fail under the pressure of the other. It's good to have them replaced at the same time so that they wear evenly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah that makes sence but i did just get new slave cylinder like 2-3 months ago so I figured that should be fine to use still.. Also, im replacing it and I left my manual at my friends dads shop so i'm like working off of step-by-step that I read on here but I cant find the cotter pin that supposedly holds the clutch pedal bracket to the master cylinder... any ideas??
If it's fairly new as in less than a few months old, it should be fine. Anything more may fail under the pressure of the other. It's good to have them replaced at the same time so that they wear evenly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah that makes sence but i did just get new slave cylinder like 2-3 months ago so I figured that should be fine to use still.. Also, im replacing it and I left my manual at my friends dads shop so i'm like working off of step-by-step that I read on here but I cant find the cotter pin that supposedly holds the clutch pedal bracket to the master cylinder... any ideas??
#12
Re: (Russ713)
i dont see the point in replaceing both if only one is leaking. these arent really wearable items (in the sense of traditionally wearable items, brake pads, clutch, spark plugs, ect...). i wouldnt waste the money on replacing both, especially if the slave cylinder is relativly new.
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Re: (NathanielH)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NathanielH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont see the point in replaceing both if only one is leaking. these arent really wearable items (in the sense of traditionally wearable items, brake pads, clutch, spark plugs, ect...). i wouldnt waste the money on replacing both, especially if the slave cylinder is relativly new.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you don't see the point then you haven't paid attention. There's a reason and rhyme for everything that we said.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah that makes sence but i did just get new slave cylinder like 2-3 months ago so I figured that should be fine to use still.. Also, im replacing it and I left my manual at my friends dads shop so i'm like working off of step-by-step that I read on here but I cant find the cotter pin that supposedly holds the clutch pedal bracket to the master cylinder... any ideas??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you lose the item in question?
If you don't see the point then you haven't paid attention. There's a reason and rhyme for everything that we said.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah that makes sence but i did just get new slave cylinder like 2-3 months ago so I figured that should be fine to use still.. Also, im replacing it and I left my manual at my friends dads shop so i'm like working off of step-by-step that I read on here but I cant find the cotter pin that supposedly holds the clutch pedal bracket to the master cylinder... any ideas??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you lose the item in question?
#15
new (not rebuilt) m/c is about $38, a new slave cylinder is about $16, i replace both at the same time whenever one goes out.
But i have bigger problems on my hand; i think my input shaft bearing is going bad... oh well time to rebuild!
But i have bigger problems on my hand; i think my input shaft bearing is going bad... oh well time to rebuild!
#16
Re: (Russ713)
no, i just saw a bunch of analogies to tires, and the recomendation to throw two parts at a problem that may be caused by only one. I could see if maybe you are saying the contaminated fluid would cause the seals to swell or somthing, but you didnt really provide any reasoning other than "if you only replace one, the other that may still be good, will fail if the other is stronger." i dont quite understand this statment. i am completley open to your explination, i by no means think i am a master tech or anything, just a little confused by what you said.
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Re: (NathanielH)
The dirty fluid is the result of the rubber seals in one of the cylinders detiorating.
You want to replace both cylinders at the same time because you want them to wear at an even pace. Since the pressure built up by one cylinder directly pressures the other cylinder, you want them wearing evenly so they can both hold the same amount of strength instead of one being stronger.
Having one stronger than the other is like a teenager pushing up against a frail, elderly person. They're both the same, but one's older and been worked longer. Can you see where I'm going with this? I hope so.
You want to replace both cylinders at the same time because you want them to wear at an even pace. Since the pressure built up by one cylinder directly pressures the other cylinder, you want them wearing evenly so they can both hold the same amount of strength instead of one being stronger.
Having one stronger than the other is like a teenager pushing up against a frail, elderly person. They're both the same, but one's older and been worked longer. Can you see where I'm going with this? I hope so.
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Re: (Russ713)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Russ713 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The dirty fluid is the result of the rubber seals in one of the cylinders detiorating.
You want to replace both cylinders at the same time because you want them to wear at an even pace. Since the pressure built up by one cylinder directly pressures the other cylinder, you want them wearing evenly so they can both hold the same amount of strength instead of one being stronger.
Having one stronger than the other is like a teenager pushing up against a frail, elderly person. They're both the same, but one's older and been worked longer. Can you see where I'm going with this? I hope so.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i understand this completely but in my case it's like a teenager pushing up against his brother who's only about 3 years older... So yeah I'm pretty sure I should be fine, but im still having a bitch of a time tryna find this cotter pin... Maybe mine fell out a while back an was replaced with something else... On the part of the new CMC it came with this little bracket that screws onto the end of the CMC an has a hole in it where that bolt goes through i guess, is that what's held on with a cotter pin..???
You want to replace both cylinders at the same time because you want them to wear at an even pace. Since the pressure built up by one cylinder directly pressures the other cylinder, you want them wearing evenly so they can both hold the same amount of strength instead of one being stronger.
Having one stronger than the other is like a teenager pushing up against a frail, elderly person. They're both the same, but one's older and been worked longer. Can you see where I'm going with this? I hope so.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i understand this completely but in my case it's like a teenager pushing up against his brother who's only about 3 years older... So yeah I'm pretty sure I should be fine, but im still having a bitch of a time tryna find this cotter pin... Maybe mine fell out a while back an was replaced with something else... On the part of the new CMC it came with this little bracket that screws onto the end of the CMC an has a hole in it where that bolt goes through i guess, is that what's held on with a cotter pin..???
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Re: (JDM_SOHC)
Basically that little bracket is for the clutch lever to attach to the cylinder shaft. If you can't find the actual pin assembly, you can just get anything that will slide through the slot to hold it long enough to go by the dealership and get one. It can't be more than a couple bucks.
As far as your slave cylinder, I don't think you're going to have any problems if it's as new as you say.
As far as your slave cylinder, I don't think you're going to have any problems if it's as new as you say.
#20
Re: (Russ713)
i understand what your saying. i guess i am thinking it would be like saying you have to replace all your wheel cylinders and calipers if your brake master cylinder went bad. oh well. i think well have to agree to disagree on this one. lol. either way, i hope the guy gets his car fixed
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Re: (NathanielH)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NathanielH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i understand what your saying. i guess i am thinking it would be like saying you have to replace all your wheel cylinders and calipers if your brake master cylinder went bad. oh well. i think well have to agree to disagree on this one. lol. either way, i hope the guy gets his car fixed </TD></TR></TABLE>
No, that's a little different. It's just that the clutch hydraulic system is a little picky comparitively to anything else. The brake system can be querky sometimes, but is rare compared to the clutch system. If you work on the clutch system a few times, you'll understand what I mean. While it's quite annoying that it's so picky, it's one of those things you just have to do.
No, that's a little different. It's just that the clutch hydraulic system is a little picky comparitively to anything else. The brake system can be querky sometimes, but is rare compared to the clutch system. If you work on the clutch system a few times, you'll understand what I mean. While it's quite annoying that it's so picky, it's one of those things you just have to do.
#23
Re: (Russ713)
i got ya. ill take your word for it, because you probably do have more experience with replacing the hydraulic components of the clutch system. thanks for explainging yourself without being a dick
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Re: (chrisw85)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">new (not rebuilt) m/c is about $38, a new slave cylinder is about $16, i replace both at the same time whenever one goes out.
But i have bigger problems on my hand; i think my input shaft bearing is going bad... oh well time to rebuild!</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have some good prices there. I just priced a slave the other day and it was $66 here. Cheapest I could find it.
But i have bigger problems on my hand; i think my input shaft bearing is going bad... oh well time to rebuild!</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have some good prices there. I just priced a slave the other day and it was $66 here. Cheapest I could find it.