Leo1195

Hello everyone. Greetings from nor cal. Just bought a 96 civic ex. Stock engine, but it has some problems. My ej8 is throwing misfire codes. Codes are for random misfire, misfire cyl 1, and cyl 2. Changed spark plugs, wires, injectors, valve adjustment, switched out dizzy for my boys from his 98 hx. Problem still there. Did a compression test and results were cyl1 143, cyl2 119, cyl3 142, cyl4 140. Would you guys say cylinder 2 is low on compression? Had a mechanic tell me as long as its over 90psi its good! Any help appreciated. Thanks!

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

its low, but doesn't explain 1 and 2 misfiring. the hx distributor is unique to the hx, testing with it is no help.

Leo1195

So hx motor is d16y5 correct? So i should definately try a d16y8 dizzy?

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

y7 and y8 are the same. b7/8 share the same casting and can be used with the obd-2 harness spliced on.

Leo1195

Ok i see. Ill try doing that then. Ill try a y8 or y7 .

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

the variance in your compression numbers is cause for concern, dont get me wrong there. 10 percent variation is about as far as you should want to see. 10 percent of 140 is 14, you're above that with that cylinder. still, as to the misfire, id start with the distributor.

Leo1195

Yea definately gonna look into that cylinder as well. Also getting a little worried cause there is a knocking sound when i accelerate mainly in 1st and 2nd gear.

angrysmileyface

I thought the service limit for these type of engines was 135. Have you performed a leakdown test to confirm why you have low number 2 cylinder

fragmare

110 is a bit low, especially in comparison to the other cylinders, but should be more than enough to ignite. If you're curious about the low compression, perform a leak down test, as stated.

Crack open your original distributor and examine the rotor and cap. Are they fouled? If so, clean them with a wire brush or a dremel.

Check the spark on all 4 plugs... and not just the fact they have spark, but also the QUALITY of the spark. White or blue is good. Orange is bad.

Verify your mechanical timing. If it has jumped a tooth or more, that can be enough to cause misfiring and wonky compression balance. If it has jumped, you will need to replace your timing belt and tensioner.

Verify your ignition timing using a timing light. If it's off, correct it.

Test that all your injectors are getting power with a multimeter. New injectors don't do you any good if they're not getting pulse.

Are you getting proper fuel pressure? No obstructions in the fuel rail?

What did the old plugs look like? Were any wet with fuel? Fouled?

Jimi Hondrix

Did you do the compression test when engine was cold or at operating temp?
Did you do a dry and wet compression test?

Do it while engine is at operating temp and follow this video..post your results:

TomCat39

I don't suspect anything is wrong with your electrical system (ignition system).

The low compression results in #2 is beyond the maximum variance acceptable for the engine and is the most likely candidate for the misfires.

Doing a wet test can help you determine if it is valve or ring related.

That is my two cents. Good luck.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

it doesnt explain a second cylinder misfiring.

Leo1195

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions i appreciate it.

I did do compression test when motor was a little more on the "warmer side than cold. But i instantly thought it had to be my valve clearance and that i needed a valve adjustment because of the knock i heard up there in the head.

Checked injectors and all are good getting good signal.

Next up on my list would be to check both, ignition timing and inspect timing belt. If that doesnt do it then i will definately do another compression test, dry and wet and get back at you guys with the numbers or any changes. Thanks to you all!

TomCat39

I was thinking about that. I'm not sure which two cylinders are tied together. Is it 1 and 2 then 3 and 4?

I was thinking if #2 misfires then on the second part of the cycle of #2 when #1 is firing it could be a bit off from the original misfire causing the CFK to still be just enough out compared to the CKP of the dizzy so as to report a code for #1 also.

Or am I over thinking it and the code is definitive that there is a true misfire in #1?

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

outer two and inner two move together. not that your theory isnt possible, but typically if the engine is in time (and probably is, since it is only reporting 1&2), multiple and random misfires point to distributor. these things are nothing but problems on our cars. i literally have a bin of damaged d series distributors in my basement.

TomCat39

Understood, yeah I think the Honda dizzy is the most complained about part for the older Honda's from what I've seen.

So 1 and 4 then 2 and 3.... Yeah that wouldn't work well for a 1 and 2 misfire...

Firing order being 1,3,4,2.... Except that 1 comes after 2..... 1,3,4,2,1,3,4,2,1,3,4,2.....

Still your experience far outweighs my theoretical thought processes of it all.

OP is wise to follow all the advise given and is going through all the checks. Hopefully it's something as simple as the distributor.

Leo1195

Definately a lot of good advice.

A couple days ago i tried my boys dizzy from his y8, but problem was still there? Did i have to set the ignition timing with that dizzy?

TomCat39

Most definitely. You always have to set ignition timing anytime the dizzy is messed with, let alone swapped to a different one.\

However that being said, I've not been able to get my car to misfire at idle once warm whether I advance or retard the dizzy off of base timing. It still idles right along.

Not sure if it is just my luck but at idle it was fine the full range of possible dizzy movement for me.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

have you checked mechanical timing?

Leo1195

Will be checking that tomorrow as well as ignition timing with a new distributor