Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maztur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I didn't say the battery light means wiring.

I said, or meant, if the battery light is NOT on, then it must be wiring (assuming battery light works.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

the batt light is kinda wierd man
do the helms test to make sure its functioning properly.
aside from that, just trouble shoot regaurdless, test the alt/batt first,
cuz they're ez. unless your a master at wiring,
but as i'm learning, wiring is ALOT more complicated than just swaping out a busted part.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maztur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't say the battery light means wiring.

I said, or meant, if the battery light is NOT on, then it must be wiring (assuming battery light works.)

I know my battery lighte works due to a mishap with an alternator belt </TD></TR></TABLE>

Teh light is junk. Do not base anything off that light. Believe me.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cuz they're ez. unless your a master at wiring,
but as i'm learning, wiring is ALOT more complicated than just swaping out a busted part.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You do not have to be a expert, just start from one side and go to the other. It is that easy.

Something to live by when working on cars:
"new born babies died too"

senpai

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Teh light is junk. Do not base anything off that light. Believe me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

why? If it wasn't for that light, then I wouldn't even know that my alternator had no belt. We all know what's going to happen after that ...

Anyways, I fixed my problem.

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maztur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why? If it wasn't for that light, then I wouldn't even know that my alternator had no belt. We all know what's going to happen after that ...

Anyways, I fixed my problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>

well if it comes on you know somethings wrong of course...
his point is just dont base your whole strategy off it if you already know something is wrong.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">his point is just dont base your whole strategy off it if you already know something is wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>



Tad, you get anywhere with your problem?

Tad

just did some learnin on my multimeter,
used the continuity function,
it does have that buzzer.(&lt;20ohms)

anyways,
I've got continuity on the thick white wire(off the top of the alt).

but I'm not really sure how to go about checking the wires out of the green plug..
i've got that circuit diagram... but dont a bunch of them run to the ecu?
cant really get the multimeter leads on the ecu and alt end at the same time.


Modified by Tad at 7:07 PM 7/26/2004

BatuKing

After reading this post I have to say if your not that knowlegable about electrical and how to follow wiring diagrams.. try to find someone in the area where your at to see if they can give you a hand.. and just pay a few$$$ for their time.


Honestly.. by reading.. I have to say it could almost anything but do a check on the voltage regulator, its inside the alternator / generator and it could be the key.. given the white wire is good.

untuned

do you have an alarm? aftermarket deck? gauges?

did you check for draw?

connect the multimeter to check for amps to the negative cable and to the negative battery terminal and then turn the key to ACC II (don't start the vechile)

they turn off the vechile and wait till you see the AMPS drop you shouldn't be drawing more then 50 millamps if you drawing more then you know you have a problem.

also you check if you charging with the loads ON and loads off.

hope this helps

Tad

ARGH! I thought I had it! SO close.

was checking the volts at the battery and I heard a buzzing noise,
so I hunt around to find it, and it sounds like its coming from right where the #2 fuel injector is.. the one right by the pcv valve and where oil was spraying from originally!
it was still kinda oily.
So I took all the connectors off the injectors and cleaned them out with alot of contact cleaner, took the rubber thingie off the back of the #2 injector plugg, and cleaned inside there too.

thought that HAD to be it! .. but no.. batt's still not chargin.. volts are dropping alil below 12 now when running. Doesnt sound like its buzzing anymore though.
hard to tell with my loud *** exhaust and screeching throwoutbearing though...

also I checked the IG(blk/yel) wire on the green plug, helms says it needs to be reading a signal from the batt or there is a short in that wire... batt voltage signal is there.
havent checked the other wires yet.
not sure exactly how to go about it.

untuned: I have simple alpine deck and 2 6.5speakers, thats all.
no alarm no sub or gauges or anything of that sort, dont even have rear speakers.
power NOTHING.
my multimeter cant check amps. Looks like one of those gadgets the helms manual talks about would be handy.

BatuKing: Yes your right I probably could/should use someones help
but thats a veeery last resort. Besides I dont even know who i'd go to,
I wouldnt even trust just any mechanic to be able to figure this out.
i'm thinkin dealership here.. or if I can find a honda specific shop around here..
again.. last resort.

NateTL17

Bump
Help this guy out

Tad

thnx nate

Tad

Hmm, nvrmnd,
that injector is still buzzin!
man I cleaned it out real good too.

doesnt always buzz though,
but that could still be the source of the problem!

can you mess up the electronics INSIDE a fuel injector?? hmm...

oh and yeh.. i'm pretty sure i've tapped out all the HT help I can get.
But thanks amillion to all that gave me input/advice,
i DO really appreciate it

B_CRUZ!

replace it with one from your other motor...

Tad

FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

FIIIIIIXXXEEEEDDDD!!!!

finally!!! wooooot!

And y'kno what it was??
the TRANSMISSION ground!
it was on, but not tight!

I should be mad at myself right now for missing such straight forward sign,
but you know what, I'm so stoked that its finally working, I just dont care.

Thanks again to everyone!

And hey I learned a whole lot about the electrical system and wiring and such.

so in conclusion... ..

jadziasman

I just had the same problem with the tranny engine ground only my problem was a frayed and corroded cable. Replaced the OEM cable with a heavy cable used for a welding stand and bam, it's ALIVE again.

Honda-Tech has saved the day on two occasions this month alone.