jdm_ek_noob

Hello HT. So I've been having the CEL 8 (top dead center sensor) for my car for awhile now. I have a 1994 B18C1 GSR (OBD1) motor in my OBD2 1999 Civic hatchback. I replaced the distributor awhile ago for some other issue that my car had, but that didn't fix the CEL 8 code. I decided to look at the wires that connect to the distributor plugs and I noticed that they have been soldered together. I'm not sure if this was done because the wire ripped, or if it was part of the obd1 to obd2 conversion. Anyways, I'm guessing that there isn't enough current passing through which caused the CEL8 to pop up. It is also taking my car longer to start, and i read that the TDC sensor can cause this. Do you guys think that the soldering of the wires is the issue here? If so, can I buy some other harness that is made for the distributor and harness? I'm not really sure what these wires are called so I posted up a picture

jdm_ek_noob

Someone has to know....

92siturbro

Soldering will not effect it. Its actually a better connection than connectors or twisting the wire together. Replace the tdc sensor. If that doesnt help then check the rest of the wiring.

carlos8

This is a distributor conversion harness, check continuity between the two plugs on the same wire. This tell you if something is wrong with the solder or a open wire. If this test fine, check if the TDC ohms are in parameter.

If you want a new one Rywire sell them.

carlos8

Check the diagram on post 10.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/95-civic-limp-mode-tps-ckp-cel-codes-please-help-3040811/

Good luck.

jdm_ek_noob

Turns out that there is continuity between the 2 wires. There is also sufficient Ohms on the dizzy terminals (assuming I did the test right). I downloaded a service manual for a 94 integra and it says that I have to replace the distributor housing. I'll be honest, I bought the distributor for like $80 on ebay brand new lol. Even though it's new, does that mean it can be defective?

ej1b18c1

Ebay distributors are crap. Some people claim they have success but for racing I would not recommend it because high rpm it starts to break up and misfire. I Used distributor king once and NEVER again, would rather use a oem used distributor before any aftermarket. Came brand new defective.

Consider getting a professional conversion harness for the distributor for peace in mind.. www.Rywire.com

ej1b18c1

A crappy solder job can possibly effect it.

carlos8

Yes, it happen I buy a few ones for clients on eBay and at least two of them not even start the car.

When you reset the ECU the CEL come on right away start the car or take some time (hours, days).

jdm_ek_noob

I'll probably end up buying one from autozone with lifetime warranty if it comes down to that. I looked at my ohm reading and it said 0.411 k with the ohm symbol next to the "k". Does that mean 411.0?

Edit: I'll reset the ECU, and report back if the code pops up

jdm_ek_noob

how does the solder job in the picture above look? There's continuity so I'm guessing it's fine.

By the way, I got the swap from some dude and he installed it for me. On the way home, the car ended up dying and took about 10 minutes to start up again. I went back to the guys house, he took off the distributor harness wires (the one in the picture above), and started soldering up some stuff. I'm thinking of borrowing someone's dizzy plugs and connecting it to my dizzy to see if the code still pops up

ej1b18c1

I say peace in mind because a new one runs about $25 online and it's legit. I always stay away from hack jobs from another people. Solder doesn't seem too bad but no way to tell how it's really connected unless you broke apart the solder.

Probably fine, but it's a cheap and easy replacement that for me is way worth it.

jdm_ek_noob

So I checked my CEL codes and #8 is gone. The odd thing is that I also had CEL 41 which was the 02 sensor (my car is missing it) and now that CEL is gone too. A new code popped up, which was CEL 6 (Engine Coolant Sensor). I went to look at the coolant sensor and saw that one of the wires from the harness was ripped How the hell do I fix that? Do I solder it? Lmao. And why is there so much oil around the damn plug? I have no leaks around the car at all

ej1b18c1

Just get another connector that has pig tails and solder it to your harness. Glad you found the problem!!! This is a common problem with 90s Hondas.

HondaPartsHero

You can fix it but it's going to be a bit tricky to resolder the pins. You're best bet it to replace the connector and solder it on to the existing wires.

jdm_ek_noob

Yeah, I'm going to get a new connector from the junk yard and just solder it to my car's existing wires

jdm_ek_noob

So my CEL 8 showed up again. I know there's continuity between the wires. Was my Ohm reading correct? The keys were off the ignition, i connected the two probes from my multimeter to the 2 different terminals on the dizzy plug and got 0.411 kΩ

If the reading is correct, and continuity is fine, is replacing my dizzy the only option left?

Edit: According to the Haynes manual, the next step after checking continuity and getting a positive result is to replace the distributor housing. Does that mean replace the entire dizzy?

carlos8

Yes, this is because Honda sell the Distributor Assy. alone.

0MOTORVATIONS

iTrader: (1)

Ohm resistance is only half of the battle here... continuity is also critical because the distributor pick-ups are polarized. This means that if the wire pairs between the distributor and the ECU are inverted, the timing event is out of phase, and thus, creates an engine error code. The positive (+) wires are on the top row of the "D" plug at positions 11,13, and 15. The negative (-) wires are on the bottom row at positions 12,14, and 16 respectively. So, to check continuity, you must probe the wires at the distributor end of the OBD-1 -> OBD-2 adapter plug (while it IS plugged into the engine harness, but not plugged into the distributor) and their corresponding position on the "D" plug. When viewed at the distributor side of the plug, the three sensor pairs are positioned vertically: Orange over White, Orange/Blue trace over White/Blue trace, and Blue/Green trace over Blue/Yellow trace. Proper phasing means that all three wires on top at the distributor end will also be on the same row at the ECU end on the "D" plug. If you have one pair that is backwards, you must flip that wire pair to make it right. I have a suspicion that the flipped pair is in the distributor adapter, so check the same test I have outlined above from the OBD-1 distributor plugs on the engine harness WITHOUT the adapter and see if the phasing is correct. If so, flip the offending pair at the OBD-1 side of the adapter because it is easy to unpin.

Good luck.

jdm_ek_noob

I traced over all the wires and they are all in the correct spot. I actually thought this was going to be the issue.