TeamRiskEG6

ok, i just recently swapped out my h22 for a stock d series motor. everything was working fine. untill today, i started the car then turned it off, then when i went to start it again it wouldnt start.

For some reason the check engine light doesnt come on when u turn the key. i check every single fuse and only one was blown the 7.5 back up fuse next to the ecu fuse under the hood, so i replaced it and still no good. i also check the main relay on the side of the dash on the drivers side and thats not it either. i tried a different ecu and still no good.
the car has power i can turn on the lights, cluster turns on, so i know its not the battery. im just wondering if there is another relay somewhere i over looked... any help is appreciated, im gonna work on it more in the morning.

TeamRiskEG6

bump

TeamRiskEG6

bump this

vdawg559

this thong????

TeamRiskEG6

nope, i know thong. why?

tortis

so the motor turns over i tjust won't start. if that is the case. are you getting fuel, and spark?

TeamRiskEG6

no it doesnt turn over, the check egine light when u turn the key doesnt come on, im thinking its the fuel pump. cuz when that light come on the off thats the fuel pump turning on and off.

Memnoch

iTrader: (1)

Well if your getting electric, then turn the key to the on position and listen for the fuel pump priming.

As far as the CEL light on the cluster the bulb may be burnt out, that would be the main reason it doesn't test when turning the key to the ON position, try replacing that little bulb behind the cluster for it, get back to us, whats the specs on the car/motor whats the starter look like? Is it making any noises? Check the volts on the battery too, cause once my battery had died and it had enough juice to power load items like the radio/lights but not enough to crank the starter.

TeamRiskEG6

update: its a 92 cx hatch, with a 94 dx transplant. i just replaced main relay and fuse box to from a working car, thats not it. im going to check the bulb to see if its burned out.

when i hold the key on the ON position for a couple seconds then let go, i here the main relay making a noise (kind of what a computer makes when it is thinking or processing)

im also going to check out the fuel pump just to make sure thats not it

thanks for the help guys

TeamRiskEG6

ok the bulb is fine, but im going to check battery first b4 i change the fuel pump

TeamRiskEG6

ok i replaced fuel pump, check battery: key OFF position - 12.3V ; key ON position - 12.2V, im stumped

what is causing the check engine light not to come on when i turn the key to the ON position. i feel like it could be the battery but how if it has 12v. i have power but the engine just doesnt turn.

the only thing i here is the relay above the hood latch click when i turn the key...?

i dunno any help is appreciated

EGFOUR

check all your grounds , mainly the one for the engine harrness , and the tranny

TeamRiskEG6

yeah i check the one the thermo, but ill re check them in all to make sure. and get back at u

TeamRiskEG6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGFOUR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check all your grounds , mainly the one for the engine harrness , and the tranny</TD></TR></TABLE>

check all grounds everything looks good, had a load test done on the battery and it check out fine. i really dont know what it could be at this point. i know a lot about my car, but when it comes to electrical problems i hate it...

Memnoch

iTrader: (1)

How do you know the bulb is working? Did you replace it with a working one like the battery light bulb?

.. and its not turning over at all? Did you inspect the starter?

TeamRiskEG6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Memnoch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you know the bulb is working? Did you replace it with a working one like the battery light bulb?

.. and its not turning over at all? Did you inspect the starter?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i swapped the brake light bulb for the check engine light bulb and it still didnt work and the brake light bulb did. as far is not turning over:

ok i put the key in the ignition turn the key to the ON position and everything works but the check engine light which comes on and then off to initiate everything is fine doesnt come on. so then if i turn the key to turn the car on, i get nothing, the engine doesnt make any noise, i dont think its the started cuz then the check engine light would have initiated when i turn the key to the on position, but ill look into it. i just have a feeling its an electrical problem maybe a ground somewhere.

TeamRiskEG6

ok i just found out the TPS has a crack on the casing, good thing i have another laying around. ill replace it and see if that was throwing it.

burntEG

if that dont work try swapping out your ecu. that is usually a sign of a bad ecu

TeamRiskEG6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by burntEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if that dont work try swapping out your ecu. that is usually a sign of a bad ecu</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok the tps wasnt it i figured that much. i tried a different ecu but it changed nothing.

northkai3

when u try and start the car it makes a noise but doesnt turn over at all? try banging on the starter with an extension while someone trys to start it. another thing lay down and crawl under the dash. there are two plastic grommets in the clutch pedal assembly. if they are cracked broken or missing they will not make contact with the clutch pedal sensor that lets u start the car.

Memnoch

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by northkai3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when u try and start the car it makes a noise but doesnt turn over at all? try banging on the starter with an extension while someone trys to start it. another thing lay down and crawl under the dash. there are two plastic grommets in the clutch pedal assembly. if they are cracked broken or missing they will not make contact with the clutch pedal sensor that lets u start the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok that doesn't explain why his CEL light isn't working... amd the ecu has been swapped/tried...

TeamRiskEG6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Memnoch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ok that doesn't explain why his CEL light isn't working... amd the ecu has been swapped/tried...</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah but i tried a chipped p28, but its a working one off my h22 swap, but the cel light should have came on. im just puzzled.

i was thinking of checking to see if current is being passed to the fuel pump. i have a multimeter but dont know exactly what setting to put it on?

jdmcivicturbo

sometimes the main relay goes bad with alot of multiple cranks of the key... so try swapping that out even though you said its good.... you dont need to focus on getting fuel, because the engine wont even crank, let alone that, you can just take off the gas cap stick a strew driver down the neck to where the protectant flap opens and listen closely with your ear in the gas door have some one turn the key to the one position and that'll help you determine if the pump is getting power...

and have you checked the starter signal wire to see if thats making full contact.. if you got fuel, meaning you did the fuel pump test and its got power leave the key on the on position and jump the starter with a wire or something... im assuming that every thing else lights up just the check engine light isnt correct ?? jump that and see if you can get that to crank, also swap out that alternator, a bad alternator will cause you to not get any cranks..

as far as the check engine light not coming on, that blows my mind cause it cant just go bad cause you swapped back to stock, and it cant be anything too bad of an electrical only considering the electrical only being touched is in the engine bay, nothing under the dash..... i ran into a problem similar to this awhile back, but kinda different also..... i wanst get a check engine light because the ecu was checking for ground through the vtec solinoid, and i didnt have that tapped yet, but thought it would matter.... so i thought i had a bad ecm, did pretty much what you did cause car wouldnt start either.... after finally tapping the vtec wire and ground it started right up with no problems..... but see mine situation was with vtec... and you said you're doing a dx setup..... so dam that beats me... sorry so long...though..

Memnoch

iTrader: (1)

Yea the CEL light is so ODD I've never seen that before, the only thing I can assume why it is not coming on is the ECU is not getting past the diagnostic check where it sends the signal to test the circuit. This has to be a wiring issue/short.. start looking around the bay for crimped/exposed wires.

TeamRiskEG6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcivicturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sometimes the main relay goes bad with alot of multiple cranks of the key... so try swapping that out even though you said its good.... you dont need to focus on getting fuel, because the engine wont even crank, let alone that, you can just take off the gas cap stick a strew driver down the neck to where the protectant flap opens and listen closely with your ear in the gas door have some one turn the key to the one position and that'll help you determine if the pump is getting power...

and have you checked the starter signal wire to see if thats making full contact.. if you got fuel, meaning you did the fuel pump test and its got power leave the key on the on position and jump the starter with a wire or something... im assuming that every thing else lights up just the check engine light isnt correct ?? jump that and see if you can get that to crank, also swap out that alternator, a bad alternator will cause you to not get any cranks..

as far as the check engine light not coming on, that blows my mind cause it cant just go bad cause you swapped back to stock, and it cant be anything too bad of an electrical only considering the electrical only being touched is in the engine bay, nothing under the dash..... i ran into a problem similar to this awhile back, but kinda different also..... i wanst get a check engine light because the ecu was checking for ground through the vtec solinoid, and i didnt have that tapped yet, but thought it would matter.... so i thought i had a bad ecm, did pretty much what you did cause car wouldnt start either.... after finally tapping the vtec wire and ground it started right up with no problems..... but see mine situation was with vtec... and you said you're doing a dx setup..... so dam that beats me... sorry so long...though..</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually good thing u mentioned that, cuz i did tap the harness for vtec for the h22, and now both conections are just there loose, the vtec conection and the vtec oil pressure. on of which has a ground not connected. i will check that out thanks, but i didnt have that grounded from the start and it was working fine