Bmocc

I have a 1992 Honda Civic Hatchback CX. When I got the car, the transmission was bad but the car always started and the CEL would remain on when the key was turned to ON. The only weird thing was my aftermarket head unit wouldn't work. I swapped the tranny out with a working one and a new flywheel/clutch. Put it all back together and the car will no longer crank/start. When the key is turned to ON, the CEL does not appear at all, and the fuel pump does not kick on. When the ignition is turned to crank nothing happens; starter does not kick on. All engine bay grounds are checked and good. All fuses under hood are good. All fuses in the little box under steering wheel are good. I changed the Main Relay and still the same thing. The ignition does work because there is a nice and loud click from it every time. The starter works, we've tested it. The battery is 100% good. The starter also gets power from the battery. Car won't even pop start. What's the effffff is wrong? I'm thinking I shorted something out in the ECU at this point. Also, my radio doesn't work unless the constant 12v from the battery is connected to the 12v of the head unit AND the ignition wire from both harnesses. I dunno if that has anything to do with the problem. Please help me

Bmocc

Also, engine is a D15B, new transmission is S40

Former User

The G1 battery, G3 transmission, and/or the G101 thermostat ground is likely not connected.

Bmocc

This is the G101 Thermostat ground, all good

Bmocc

Here's the G3 ground from the chassis to the transmission, all good, we used an even better ground than stock just for good measure

Bmocc

And we also checked the G1 battery ground, it tested all good

Bmocc

I just swapped the ECU out and still nothing. Does no one have an answer?

09chaplak

Do all the other electrical components still work? Dash lights?

Former User

Measure resistance between the starter body and the (-) battery post. What's the reading?

Bmocc

It read out as 37.9 OHM with the negative connector on the battery and the positive on the starter body

Former User

There may be two separate problems - ECU and voltage to starter.

With the key held in ON(III)/Start, does battery voltage reach the starter solenoid connector?

Bmocc

I'm just so confused because I put a new ECU in, the main relay is not getting anything because the new and old one do not click at all and the CEL never turns on. To check the starter solenoid do I put the multimeter to the positive and check the read out?

Bmocc

Yes everything works

Bmocc

I had a friend turn the key and I held the positive to the starter power wire and the negative to the battery negative terminal and it read 1

Former User

Check fuses 24 and 31.

Former User

The rubber stopper at the top of the clutch pedal may have fallen out.

Bmocc

They're good, I'll check whatever thst is tonight

Former User

You must provide more information than this^ because I generally don't believe unsubstantiated claims. My experience is that claims like this are often wrong, especially on tech forums.

For example, do you know where the two fuses are located?

Bmocc

How would that rubber stopper not allow the main relay to work?

Bmocc

Lol, I've taken out every single fuse in both fuse boxes and examined them and they all look unburnt and clean, and I've even swapped them out with fuses equal to them and still nothing

Former User

Who made this claim?

Former User

Lol, common noob error. (1) You don't always see a blown fuse; (2) Installing a new fuse into a shorted circuit can lead immediately to a new blown fuse.

So answer the question - where are fuses 24 and 31 located?

Bmocc

Alrighty...fuse 24 is located under the dash next to 25, fuse 31 is located under the hood all the way to the upper left corner

Former User

Click the Test Fuses link in my signature. Voltage test both fuses with a multimeter exactly as described at the link.

Bmocc

How could the circuit short out? Just wondering