TheTealHatch

Ok ive searched and im confused what is causing my car to run like crap.
Lets start from what i know of my car.
94 cx with a d16z6 w/ cx tranny (just for now)
there is no 02 sensor as of right now waiting for it to come in also i have an aftermarket tb.
Aight to the point.. my car feels like crap right now..when i floor it hard it accelerates but then when it gets to around 3 grand it jerks foward. It feels like its not getting enough power or something.

Also when i start up my car and let it sit for awhile and let it warm up it and i drive the temperature rises past the half way mark. Then after i drive for awhile it suddenly starts rising higher.

Any help?

truevietluv636

check thermostat, fuel pressure, fuel injectors... vac leaks.. and coolant temp sensor.

viahiptop

throwing any codes? has it been crap or just started to run like crap?

TheTealHatch

i checked and it was like blinking 13 or 33. but there is not such code as 33. Also i know for sure its throwing code 1 cause i have no o2 sensor. Also my thermostat went out and i did that little hook up to keep the fan running costantly until i cant swoop up a new one.

ima have to check the fuel pressure and fuel injectors. where do i check for the coolant temp sensor and fuel pressure??

TheTealHatch

Please help me out guys.

slowcivic2k

Change the thermostat now, you'll be lucky if you didn't overheat that block. Your better off ripping the damn thing out and running without one. As for no o2 sensor, if you don't have that, your gonna run very rich, and throw the short and long term fuel trims way off, which will cause the annoying misfire condition due to too much fuel, and no way to meter it. This will cause your low rpm bog, and it whould pick up slightly at 3500-4000 due to increased airflow.

I would suggest to not modify anything on your car until everything else is fixed, all you'll be asking for is more trouble.

Code 13 is an atmospheric pressure (BARO) sensor, and if you are in fact certain this code is correct, your ECM/PCM is faulty. (As per the flow chart provided by Honda, as this sensor is integral to the PCM.) Reset your PCM and post back if code 13 comes back on.

Coolant temp is gonna be on the thermostat housing (or near it) or the side of the head. One is a switch and the other is resistor that senses temperature. To check them you must suspend them in water and record the reading as well as monitor the water temp it is in, to tell if it is bad. If your coolant system has air pockets in it this will cause the reading to go off the map because air gets hotter than a liquid that cant boil.

Leave the fuel system alone, most likely you are running pig rich anyways. Injectors either work, or they dont. How much comes out is a different story depending on age. to do a quick check, simply unplug the vac line from the fuel regulator and hold your hand on the tube so it doesnt suck in air. The idle speed should rise, if it does not, you will need to service the fuel system as well.

Fuel pressure is checked at the filter and some will have a service bolt which allows for a fitting to be installed, don't install at any other point on the system. some will require a special bolt with hold the banjo on, as well as a fitting for the gauge. (most 96 honda's will have the service bolt, 99-00 for sure dont have it. 92-95 is a shotgun blast, they are all different.)

TheTealHatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Code 13 is an atmospheric pressure (BARO) sensor, and if you are in fact certain this code is correct, your ECM/PCM is faulty. (As per the flow chart provided by Honda, as this sensor is integral to the PCM.) Reset your PCM and post back if code 13 comes back on.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

What is he PCM and how do i do this?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Coolant temp is gonna be on the thermostat housing (or near it) or the side of the head. One is a switch and the other is resistor that senses temperature. To check them you must suspend them in water and record the reading as well as monitor the water temp it is in, to tell if it is bad. If your coolant system has air pockets in it this will cause the reading to go off the map because air gets hotter than a liquid that cant boil.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is there any other way of checking out if that coolant temp is bad? And this should stop the increase of rising in my temp right?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Fuel pressure is checked at the filter and some will have a service bolt which allows for a fitting to be installed, don't install at any other point on the system. some will require a special bolt with hold the banjo on, as well as a fitting for the gauge. (most 96 honda's will have the service bolt, 99-00 for sure dont have it. 92-95 is a shotgun blast, they are all different.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is this one necessary?? Or could it be my last opinion to check?

TheTealHatch

Just checked the fuel system and its fine

slowcivic2k

The fuel check is not necessary, I saw something in here so I decided to post a bit on it. The coolant temperature sensor needs to be tested as if it were in actual operation to tell if it's good.

Oh, and sorry for the use of ECM/PCM, as a tech, I have a habit of calling ECU's PCM's.

The 92-95 service manual specifies 200-400 Ohms resistance for the engine coolant temperature sensor (on the side of the head) at room temperature, if that is out of spec, replace it.

No self test is available for code 13, if it continues to throw this code, you will need to replace the ECU.

The fan switch, which is on the thermostat housing, is a heat activated switch that closes the contacts in your cooling fan relay and allow the fan to run, you can do the test in car if its hot, or put it in 200F water, and place a ohmmeter across the terminals. IF you get a OverLimit OL reading, or very high resistance, the switch is faulty, and will need to be replaced as well. Typical resistance is 1-10Ohms.

The cause of your high temp reading could be a challenge. As I said before, an air pocket will quicky heat up and throw the temp sensor way off because water vaper has the ability to become hotter than the water that contains it. One of the reasons when a car overheats, and the cap is removed, it erupts everywhere and will send the temp sensor sky high. What we are doing is eliminating the chance of a faulty sensor. If your sensors all test good, and that code 13 comes back, replace the ECU, and start over for the coolant portion. makes sure you have at least a 50/50 mix of coolant, any more will cause insufficient cooling, because antifreeze is one of the worst heat transfer mediums out there. Water happens to be on of the best. a 55/45 mix of water/coolant is what I recommend. Also replace that damn thermostat, its like 9 bucks at Autozone.

TheTealHatch

Well im going change the thermostat tomorrow so lets see how it is from there.
And ima check on the fan switch too and the coolant temperature after i go pick up a ohnmeter

What is code 13?? Ive tried doing that self CEL method to find out what it was but im not really sure if its 13 cause it blinks once then it pauses then it costantly blinks three times and it doesnt start over on a diff CEL. I know i already have a CEL on 1 cause of the no o2. So could the CEL be 3?

TheTealHatch

Also i found this..where does this go to?

t0p_sh0tta

If people would do things right the first time around, it'd make life much simpler.

To start, get an O2 sensor. I've never tried running without one, but one would think that the ECU/PCM/ETC. would go into limp mode without one.

That hose and the canister that it's connected to are part of your emissions system and do not affect drivability.

TheTealHatch

Yeah just ordered it and its coming in

slowcivic2k

When you jump the 2 pin SCS connector to make your CEL go into morse code mode, one long blink is 10, one short blink is 1, each code will be separated by about a 1 sec delay, to tell the codes apart.

TheTealHatch

Aight so it had one long blink thats 10 and then it constantly did short blinks three times then pause. then three again then pause then three again.. continuing over and over.. so is that CEL 13?