In car piston ring and rod bearing DIY
#1
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In car piston ring and rod bearing DIY
I just finished my rering and rod bearing in car to fix a single low compression cyl.
I was using about 1 qt of oil 1500km
(putting 2 or 3 in between changes.)
this tooo much for me and my miles were low and I wasnt out of round so I got her done now its good.
My question is, do you guy want a new pic by pic writup on it or no?
I think there are enough out there jsut thought Id ask..!!
Steve
I was using about 1 qt of oil 1500km
(putting 2 or 3 in between changes.)
this tooo much for me and my miles were low and I wasnt out of round so I got her done now its good.
My question is, do you guy want a new pic by pic writup on it or no?
I think there are enough out there jsut thought Id ask..!!
Steve
#4
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You didn't hone? prepare for the rings to wear out super fast lol like <3k mi
did you plastigauge? measure rod bolt stretch? if not enjoy thrown rods!
did you plastigauge? measure rod bolt stretch? if not enjoy thrown rods!
#5
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Whats wrongs with you? DId I list any of my steps?
Why shoot your mouth off? ALL I WAS ASKING IS IF YOU WANT A WRITEUP.
not everyone is "as smart" as you and might wanna see how others do it.
Why shoot your mouth off? ALL I WAS ASKING IS IF YOU WANT A WRITEUP.
not everyone is "as smart" as you and might wanna see how others do it.
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Re: (s_vares)
I'd be interested in seeing something ... My B18C is consuming as much oil as yours was, maybe more. Could be because of my PCV, partially but not that much.
If you've done everything right, I'd love to read it. I need a starting point ... and I'm sure other peeps to, too.
If you've done everything right, I'd love to read it. I need a starting point ... and I'm sure other peeps to, too.
#7
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Re: (s_vares)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s_vares »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats wrongs with you? DId I list any of my steps?
Why shoot your mouth off? ALL I WAS ASKING IS IF YOU WANT A WRITEUP.
not everyone is "as smart" as you and might wanna see how others do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
attempting to replace piston rings with the block in the car (not doing a proper hone) will result in ring failure in almost all cases. it's just bad advice.
replacing the rod bearings in car is okay, as long as it's done right. but its always better to pull the motor and do a proper assembly.
beside a good hone job is not expensive and an extra couple hours of labor to pull the block will be rewarded with a strong, reliable motor.
Do it right the first time or don't do it at all
Why shoot your mouth off? ALL I WAS ASKING IS IF YOU WANT A WRITEUP.
not everyone is "as smart" as you and might wanna see how others do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
attempting to replace piston rings with the block in the car (not doing a proper hone) will result in ring failure in almost all cases. it's just bad advice.
replacing the rod bearings in car is okay, as long as it's done right. but its always better to pull the motor and do a proper assembly.
beside a good hone job is not expensive and an extra couple hours of labor to pull the block will be rewarded with a strong, reliable motor.
Do it right the first time or don't do it at all
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#8
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Guess what... you guys know the homie Shata.. Shata f@#k up... Show us the details and then people can say what they want. I would like to see the write up.
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Re: (Sketch_hs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sketch_hs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
attempting to replace piston rings with the block in the car (not doing a proper hone) will result in ring failure in almost all cases. it's just bad advice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
block can be honed in the car. ball hone and little skill = good hone job
attempting to replace piston rings with the block in the car (not doing a proper hone) will result in ring failure in almost all cases. it's just bad advice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
block can be honed in the car. ball hone and little skill = good hone job
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Re: In car piston ring and rod bearing DIY (s_vares)
I'd like to see something on this!
Agree or disagree on if it is good to do or not you do what you gotta do.
The direct quote from the Honda factory service manual is..."Only a scored or scratched cylinder bore must be honed."
I would think honing while the engine is in the car could cause more problems than not honing. Would you ever be sure you got all that grit and metal out of the engine?
Agree or disagree on if it is good to do or not you do what you gotta do.
The direct quote from the Honda factory service manual is..."Only a scored or scratched cylinder bore must be honed."
I would think honing while the engine is in the car could cause more problems than not honing. Would you ever be sure you got all that grit and metal out of the engine?
#12
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Re: (tatmark1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tatmark1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">block can be honed in the car. ball hone and little skill = good hone job</TD></TR></TABLE>
They with give you a very poor hone actually and you won't get the proper cylinder crosshatch that is essential to proper lubrication, compression, and preventing oil consumption.
You will never get close to a machine hone, ever.
My advice is to always remove the block from the car and take it to a shop. It's worth the extra time and effort.
I'm not just talking about of my *** here guys. I've built several motors using no hone, a ball hone, and 3 stone hone. Honestly they all had problems burning oil and running like poo. I used the correct tools and did correct measurement, however because of the lack of a proper hone the rings never seated completely or wore out with in a few thousand miles. The 3 motors I've assembled with a machine hone have all come out perfectly and are running to this day making great power.
Honestly, not honing the cylinder worked the best compared to any of the home brew cylinder honing. My friend still runs the crap out of that b16 (i pretty much gave it to him) and claims about 1.5 quarts of oil every 3k. The other motors i ran for a bit and just disassembled... I'm talking over a quart a week and that horrible smell
cliffs: Machine hone ftw
They with give you a very poor hone actually and you won't get the proper cylinder crosshatch that is essential to proper lubrication, compression, and preventing oil consumption.
You will never get close to a machine hone, ever.
My advice is to always remove the block from the car and take it to a shop. It's worth the extra time and effort.
I'm not just talking about of my *** here guys. I've built several motors using no hone, a ball hone, and 3 stone hone. Honestly they all had problems burning oil and running like poo. I used the correct tools and did correct measurement, however because of the lack of a proper hone the rings never seated completely or wore out with in a few thousand miles. The 3 motors I've assembled with a machine hone have all come out perfectly and are running to this day making great power.
Honestly, not honing the cylinder worked the best compared to any of the home brew cylinder honing. My friend still runs the crap out of that b16 (i pretty much gave it to him) and claims about 1.5 quarts of oil every 3k. The other motors i ran for a bit and just disassembled... I'm talking over a quart a week and that horrible smell
cliffs: Machine hone ftw
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