VTECwalka

Ok so after having a really hard time trying to figure out problems with my car and have changed

Distributor rotor and O rings, Spark plugs, Fuel pump sock, and a bottle of injector cleaner in my tank

This is what is NOW happening with the car.

I said in the title "redlining" because that's what it looks like. MOST the time it will get up too 2000 go a tap above it then go back down to 2000 and do that process over and over again.

Sometimes i would get lucky and get the rpm's past 2000-2500 and the car would run great. anywhere above 2500 i didn't have a problem but if i let the idle go under 2000-2500 it would get up too 2000 and do the hole redlining thing

It seemed to have gotten worse the more i drove it. When i first started my car and drove it cold. Not a single problem. Then soon after i got a little stutter when i hit the gas. Then that went away and began doing the hole redline thing.

Anyone have any experience with this? I don't have the slightest clue what could be wrong anymore.

kyden

is the check engine light on?

VTECwalka

Sorry that should have been in my first post, Nope CEL turns off after a couple of seconds when the key is turned(II)

JuggerNaut-CTR

k so thats normal....

is it actually hitting a rev limiter or will it just refuse to go past such rpm?

VTECwalka

Sometimes i can give it more gas and get it past 2000 so id say it just doesn't want to go past the rpm It's not the same as when you hit a rev limit its in a slower motion

JuggerNaut-CTR

Kinda sounds like the honeycomb inside your cat broke apart.

Similar thing happened to me a few years ago...car just would not accelerate past 2500 rpm, had to ride the shoulder on the freeway cause it would struggle to get up to 40 mph.

Did a google search and saw several posts about the cat breaking apart, and sure enough, I remove the cat and all the pieces started falling out.

VTECwalka

When this happened too you did the car sometimes go past that rpm? Every once in awhile i would get lucky and give it more gas to get it past it.

But it does feel as if my exhaust is clogged in a way.

JuggerNaut-CTR

Didnt have much experience with that problem. Replaced the cat the same day. Just remember couldnt be on the freeway doing 40-45mph and wouldnt rev past 2500ish

VTECwalka

I'm sure i could find a cheap high flow one. Yea mine is still stock.

Is there anyway to test this? Or did you just change yours on a hunch and it turned out to be the problem? lol

JuggerNaut-CTR

I read other peoples accounts of what their car was doing (which was what mine was doing)...and saw the result in which the problem was.
I went out to the car, remove the cat (all of 5 min of work) and the chunks of honeycomb were coming out. Replaced cat...car drove like normal.

The way to test this is to remove your cat, look inside and see if its broke, drive the car with the cat off and see how it drives

VTECwalka

Alright. I will do that after lunch.

What do you recommend i should get for a new one. I found this ebay that looks very promising
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRX-CIVIC-De...375eb1&vxp=mtr

thatcivic96

Not a fan of eBay exhaust parts at all, they tend to fail rather fast. For around $100 a muffler shop usually can weld in a new one.

JuggerNaut-CTR

Not to mention that in the link it is titled as a high flow cat and in the pics the inside of it looks more like a test pipe or a resonator.

VTECwalka

I am on a pretty tight budget with this as i have already spent money on trying to fix this Id say $50

Plus i want to eventually put a hole new exhaust on that's from a recommend seller(skunk2,Greddy) I have allot of miss matched crap on it right now.

But for now i just need something that will work. What's the difference in a CAT and test pipe resonator? Why Shouldn't i get ca test pipe/resonator?

That was really the first one i found at a cheap price so i thought id through it out there.

Does this one look any better? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Test-Pipe-CA...f93153&vxp=mtr

Sadly i don't have allot of money at the moment so ill have to go with something "ebay"

Unless theres another bolt on out there for around $50. I still have my stock one on with the stock piping without a muffler right now and a OBX header with a Ebay down pipe. So far everything ebay i have has not gone bad but i have only had it for 2 years

JuggerNaut-CTR

Dont get too far ahead of yourself...dont buy something that you dont know if you need yet.

A testpipe is to eliminate your cat...with one you wont pass emissions
A resonator is like a straight thru muffler that is installed after the cat and before the muffler. It helps cut the noise down.

You want a cat...not a testpipe

thatcivic96

Same thing just someone else selling it essentially. The difference between the two is:
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=difference+betw...+and+test+pipe

If you have emissions you will NOT pass. Also eBay stuff tends to be junk, especially if it is something as vital as a cat. Your catback exhaust will rust out eventually from eBay, it generally isn't 100% stainless even advertised as so.

VTECwalka

So this is around what i need to be getting?http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...?apwcid=nextag

JuggerNaut-CTR

^Yes thats more like it.

but....

thats what you need to be getting if the problem is in fact what I suspect it to be

troubleshoot...confirm...buy...

VTECwalka

OK. Well it's raining right now so i still have not gotten to prop the car up and take a look.

But, I have my muffler that's just been sitting in its box for about 4 months now.

I can get a cheaper converter around $70 that needs to be welded on.

How much to shops usually do it for? I was thinking if i buy one and have them weld on my converter and muffler no more than $40?

Or is that not possible? As i need my car to make money I kinda have to pay more to get it going. so much for $50 lol

thatcivic96

Will vary from region to region. Shop here in town will weld me a cat or muffler for $15. Usually $30

VTECwalka

Well i couldn't get the CAT all the way off i got the spring loaded bolts off that where connected to the downpipe from he header. The other side was like rusted and there was no way i was getting them off.

Anyway Inside was black And i shined a flash light in it and the honey comb wall wasn't damaged what so ever. No cracks or anything all in one piece... Not able to drive without the CAT because the people around me(mainly my father) doesn't want naughbors mad.

Sense the honeycomb wall is compleatly in tacked does that mean it's not my CAT?

If so...Back to square one.

Patryk_98

Check your transmission
"i got a little stutter when i hit the gas. Then that went away and began doing the hole redline thing."

Kinda seems like it was slipping gears and now it could need rebuilding.
:/
I'm no expert but correct me if I'm wrong.

chrysler kid

Your fuel pump is failing. Same thing happened on my firebird.

VTECwalka

The fuel pump failing would cause me to not get over a certain RPM?

Is there a way to test the fuel pump. I know it is pumping gas to the lines or it was the other day because i changed the pump sock and after i put it back together i didn't tighten the bolt all the way down and as i went to turn it over i smelt gas and it was slighlty coming from under the bolt untill i tightened it

I just don't want to change the pump and it end up being something else

ElectronBlue00

Is your car an auto, or a manual transmission?

If its an auto, does it still not raise above 2500 RPM while in park or neutral?

If its a manual, does it do the same while in neutral?