moneybagzz

So just recently bought a 1996 Honda civic EX Coupe with Gsr Swap in it.
Car hasnt been driving how it's suppose to lately.
A little background on the car and known issues.
Had to change oil because it was black nd full of sludge.
The Clutch went out on me so had it replaced 500miles ago.
Does have a check engine light, which i tried to run the codes (manually nd at discount auto parts) but since ecu isnt from my car it wouldnt read it, and when i did it manually. The CEL wouldnt come back on.
There are plugs in the motors wiring harness dat arent plugged but idk if its from "*****-rigging" it. and also an extra injector plug is there but all injectors are plugged in, looked like a left over plug.
Had to advance timing ALL the way just so the car can stay on because at times, coming to a red light.It'll drop in rpm's and just turn off.
Also, been having a problem where the car won't turn on here and there, after trying to turn it on a couple times. Have to really push in clutch or just wait for the car to want to turn on.

now back to the problem at hand.
Car will run fine and perfect for a couple blocks when just turned on.
but after that, the car seems to bog around 2.5k (doesnt do it so much anymore since i changed oil)
and just seems to lack power and not want to go anywhere.
It's still driveable, but i would like to hit my gas however i feel like and not have to "ease" it to speed. Any ideas or information will be welcomed.
Thanks alot!

94EG8

Pull codes and see what's going on (you can do this with the engine running if it wont throw codes with the engine off.

Former User

Sounds like a very sloppy swap job, which is likely the main source of the problem.

While you're waiting for the CEL to reappear, check the mechanical timing and also whether unplugging the primary O2 sensor prevents the bogging problem.

moneybagzz

Sorry, jsut got back into the game so a little noobish here.
But how do i check the codes with the car on? i tried to find information online before i asked these questions but nothing.
and, the 02 sensor you are speaking of is the one connected to the exhaust pipe?

i dont know if i could check the codes though, because i dont have the original ecu for the car. and at discount auto, they said u have to have the original ecu of the car for it to scan. right now im running a chipped usdm itr computer. HELP PLZZZZ,
car always drives perfect if i let it cool down a little and tunr it back on but after few blocks! its back to the same old sluggish *** snail. ;(

94EG8

Jump the 2 pin connector under the dash.

That just isn't true, but it does have to be a USDM/CDM OBD2 ECU, JDM/EDM and OBD1 ECUs will not communicate with a scan tool.

No you aren't. You can't chip an OBD2 ECU. What does the ECU code say? It should be 37820-XXX-XXX where the Xs represent the type and revision.

moneybagzz

its a p73 dat revs to 10k, and its been connected to a scanner already and it couldn't read anything. said it couldnt do it

Koko4

This may or may not be applicable, so take it with a grain of salt. I have an old Jeep that was having similar issues. Would idle / drive fine at first, then would stumble BAD upon even light acceleration.

I originally had it set so the timing was producing a great smooth idle, which seemed like the place it needed to be. But I ended up rotating the distributor a HAIR (retarding it JUST a hair), and this made the Jeep sound a little rougher at idle; it's not as smooth as it was previously, but the difference in driving is night and day. You could try retarding your timing just a bit and see if it helps.

moneybagzz

I've tried setting it to normal and advancing it, but i guess this wont hurt to try.
but still just a temporary fix. i would like to eliminate the problem. CEL and Anything wrong with this car.
I now know i need a new GSR Harness added to the list of shyt i have to buy to get the car to pristine conditions. No wonder i got it at such a steal.

94EG8

Could be a JDM ECU, could be something else entirely in a P73 case, could also be a blown fuse preventing communication with a scan tool.

You can't use a GS-R harness in a '96 - '00 Civic.

moneybagzz

thankyou, si harness im guessing than. still dk how to solve the problem. any other ideas or info will be appreciated, thanks.
I will try to pull the codes with the car on but will it do the blinking with the car on too?
or will i have to connect a scanner tool up to it, and find out why the scanner tool isnt reading my ecu?

moneybagzz

also noticed the head is a 1993 but the block is a b18c1 so a little confused there.
could the dizzy have anything to do with this? maybe not connected correctly, such as in
a obd1 dizzy connected to a obd2 wiring harness?

moneybagzz

so how does it not have a rev limiter? confused

94EG8

You can't use that either. It needs to be a '96 - '98 Civic harness, 5 speed EX preferred.

Yes.

Early production '94 model year engines were built in '93. If the head is stamped P72 It's the correct head.

It shouldn't, it would just not run correctly all the time if that were the case or wouldn't run at all.

It probably does, the factory tach is probably way off. It's pretty common for them to be off that much by the time you get to the far end of the tach.

Pull the ECU and take some good pics with the cover off and I might be able to give you a more concrete answer though.

moneybagzz

the car will drive okay but its still a gsr and doeqsnt have the full power its suppose to, it just drives smoother, without the car jerking as much. and thank u for the help. ill go take a picture in a lil bit . and the rpm tach on my cluster is aftermarket soo yeah it could be way off. appreciate it