UndisputedH22a

i got a b18b1 in my 98 civic hatch it bogs bad before 3000rpm after that its fine it just did a crank fluctuation sensor bypass since i used an obd2 Ls ecu. Now why would my car still be bogging. it bogged before and after the bypass i was throwing code 54,and 9 but code 9 went away after the 54 was supposed to also help please

burnykawizzle

if you turn on your car and you dont give it gas does it rough idle or does it struggle then shut off? do you have to rev high to take off and drive the car? did this problem happen recently or did it happen as soon as you put the swap in???

Former User

Are all codes now gone? What condition are the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor? Is the ignition timing set to spec?

UndisputedH22a

It started as soon as the swap went in last tues... The car starts up and starts at 900rpm then goes up to 1500rpm,The to take off i gotta stay at 2000 or up to go because it will bog to the point that it will shut off. i dunno im lost its getting on my nerves

Former User

Did you read post #3?

UndisputedH22a

My car was throwing
3. Map Sensor
9. Cylinder Sensor
41. Primary O2 Sensor heater
54. CKF Crank Fluctuation Sensor
65. Secondary o2 Sensor Heater wires(Black)
17. Vss Speed Sensor

Now that i did the bypass CEL 9,and 17 Are gone but the bypass was supposed to eliminate the CEL 54 Also so im lost it feels and kinda sounds like its runnin on 3 cylinders

The plugs Brand new Ngk's,Wires brand new Xact plug wires,Cap is off my single cam and the distributor is from an ls vtec set up(but car had same bogging issue with the single cam distributor on it,and rotor is in great shape

burnykawizzle

ok thats very very good source of information to let me help you out with the issue.. first thing first always do a full tune up when you buy a engine from another person.. oil,sparks,plugs,rotor,dizzy cap also go a engine and tranny flush so you get all that old oil out of there so you can run nice clean oil.. once you do that start your car and give it gas up at 2000rpm and let it chill at 2000 then if it starts to have trouble and starts to drop dont give it gas or let go of the gas if it starts off clean your intake manifold and also the ivac and BUY NEW VACUUM HOSES remember its an old engine and you should also change your hoses with doing the swap so you can be sure its 1 less problem.. i did everything that i stated above because i had an issue like that and i changed my hoses and the problem was fixed... aint that a bia?

Former User

Codes 3 and 54 will make the engine run like crap. Focus there.

UndisputedH22a

i havent got to change the oil but everything else is new including trans fluid i need to replace all the vacuum lines because there iis 2 leaks or so in the lines somewhere.

UndisputedH22a

Well i dunno about 3 because the map sensor is hooked up could be a crappy vacuum line to it or it could be the intake sensor that was hooked up to my single cam stock air box

Former User

Glad you have spare cash because you can replace parts at random until the cows come home but your problem will still be there if the codes I mentioned are. Good luck.

UndisputedH22a

so how can i eliminate CEL 54,....Map im pretty sure i gotta drill a hole in my intake and use a rubber grommet and stick that plug into it...and also replace my vacuum lines too

UndisputedH22a

work bump

UndisputedH22a

home bump

unautomobiled

bad ground on starter or somewhere else ? causing ignition/sparking issues. dunno

UndisputedH22a

i will have to check into that...but in mean time still need to figure out why my CEL 54 still there and a suggestion on fixing the CEL.3.