jadugartir

I dont know a whole lot about camber kits, but id like to figure out how i can correct my camber. A friend told me to go with ingalls, but when i looked at them i saw ball joint ones, and some other type, im not sure of the name, but heres a link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

That kits says front and rear, and im not sure how the one in the first pic works but the second one looks like its just a fuggin bolt with washers. is that really a complete ingalls kit?

Heres my setup: im running tokico blues with tein s tech springs, which are a 1.75" drop more or less. my negative camber is noticable in the front and the rear, however im not sure of the actual degrees that its off. i need to know the best way to correct it. I was told the ball joint one is not the way to go. any advice would be much appreciated.

Oh btw, im not sure how much this has to do with tha camber, but when i was dropping my car is was so rusted that i had to literally cut my struts off, then proceed to drill out every single bolt and i ended up just replacing the whole suspension, i mean the whole hub/trailing arm/control arm assembly with junkyard parts, and i had to use a LCA from a different car, which doesnt include the hole for my sway bar o bolt up. so im looking to buy aftermarket LCA's so i can hook up my sway bar again. are there LCA's that have anything to do with adjusting the camber?

Solracer

Did you get an aligment after you lowered the car? Is it just the inside edge that is worn? If so this is Toe wear, camber wear will be spread out over more of the tire than just the inside edge.

jadugartir

Im going to get an alignment after i get a camber kit. I dont have any tire wear.

But before i get a camber kit, i need to know what is the normal negative degrees for a drop similar to mine. because when they sell camber kits, they have different ones to correct different degrees of negative camber. I need to know whats normal on a 4 door eg with a not-too-aggressive drop. just a little under 2 inches.

3.point.2

get an alignment first, you may not need the camber kit after the alignment

jadugartir

lol thats not what i wanted to hear ill prolly end up doin it anyway though. whats an alignment cost, 40 bucks?

IHateJDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jadugartir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol thats not what i wanted to hear ill prolly end up doin it anyway though. whats an alignment cost, 40 bucks?</TD></TR></TABLE>

4 wheel alignment is usually around $75-80. I'm running that ingall's camber kit on my car with ~2" drop. With about 1.75" drop, you should be ok with that kit. Negative camber isn't necessarily a bad thing, its the toe you want corrected when you get an alignment. Negative camber is good for cornering, where 0 camber is good for drag racing.

jadugartir

Or do you think it would be better to just get it put up on the machine and get a printout of the angles of my wheels, without actually having them adjust it.

jadugartir

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4 wheel alignment is usually around $75-80. I'm running that ingall's camber kit on my car with ~2" drop. With about 1.75" drop, you should be ok with that kit. Negative camber isn't necessarily a bad thing, its the toe you want corrected when you get an alignment. Negative camber is good for cornering, where 0 camber is good for drag racing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Youre running that exact kit i posted as an example? because i am skeptical that the one for the rear on that ebay page is actually a ingalls kit. thats just an longer bolt and some washers lol. i have that in my garage. I would go with those fronts, but i would get the adjustable control arm for the rear i think

IHateJDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jadugartir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Youre running that exact kit i posted as an example? because i am skeptical that the one for the rear on that ebay page is actually a ingalls kit. thats just an longer bolt and some washers lol. i have that in my garage. I would go with those fronts, but i would get the adjustable control arm for the rear i think</TD></TR></TABLE>

I only have the front kit on my car. I like the neg camber in the rear, but that is the correct rear kit, it is just a longer bolt and washers, you can make your own rear camber kit very cheap.

jadugartir

yeah i looked up the part on ingalls website, its a real kit, but it only adjusts to +.75 in the rear. so since i probably wont need the other ingalls rear kit, which has a much bigger range, i think ill go with that one. I doubt ill need +3 degrees to correct my camber in the rear with only a 2 inch drop. the other kit is an adjustable UCA with poly bushings. Itd be nice to have but i just dont think itd be worth the money with my application.

So yeah i think im gonna go with the ingalls front and the bolts/washers for the rear, for the ingalls front and expensive ingalls rear the total is 240 on ebay, and for the same front but cheap ingalls rear the total is 160. so im pretty sure what im gonna go with.

Design

That should help out on your toe wear. Lowered cars (yours especially) are more prone to alignment issues.

With agressive camber, toe wear is concentrated on the repsective side of the tire, with the slightest misalignment creating an agressive wear pattern on the innermost corner (negative setting). On more neutral camber settings, toe wear is spread out over a larger surface area.

If you run an agressive camber setting (positive or negative), I'd suggest checking your alignment every 5K miles.

Solracer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That should help out on your toe wear. Lowered cars (yours especially) are more prone to alignment issues.

With agressive camber, toe wear is concentrated on the repsective side of the tire, with the slightest misalignment creating an agressive wear pattern on the innermost corner (negative setting). On more neutral camber settings, toe wear is spread out over a larger surface area.

If you run an agressive camber setting (positive or negative), I'd suggest checking your alignment every 5K miles.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Camber has nothing to do with Toe Wear, toe Wear is cause by your toe setting being out of spec. On a lower car I would set the toe to 0 and not but the camber kit... but what do I know I only got 35000 miles out of 2 sets of tires with track events with -2.5 camber in the front.

Design

I agree, but camber complicates toe wear if left unattended. Negative camber is certainly not a bad thing, but the slightest toe misalignment on a positive or negative camber setting will cause accelerated toe wear proportional to the lean of the wheel.

Solracer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Design &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree, but camber complicates toe wear if left unattended. Negative camber is certainly not a bad thing, but the slightest toe misalignment on a positive or negative camber setting will cause accelerated toe wear proportional to the lean of the wheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would agree with that.

Design

This article does a decent job of summarizing toe-in and toe-out wear:

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racet....html