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Hello all,
I was having an issue with a/c blowing hot air, and found that 20A fuse #56 kept blowing. Mechanic, I’ve been going to for 2 decades, took a look and said “bad compressor” so I bought a new Denso 471-7050 and he installed it for me. It worked great briefly, then began to blow hot air.
I checked fuse, OK...Took it back to mechanic, who said “freon leak”, so he refilled it and “added purple dye, so we can find leak”, and sent me on my way. Again, it worked briefly but now hot. I can’t see signs of purple dye, on or around hoses and/or connections, or compressor, from top but not sure, where else to look.
Now, I’ve been trying to get in to see mechanic but he seems to be too busy or ignoring me...So, it looks like, I’m on my own, moving forward.
I appreciate your thoughts!
There are a lot more connections than just those. The lines go all the way around across the front of the car, and through the firewall behind the battery. Inspect everywhere for dye. Dye is usually fluorescent yellow-green, like antifreeze. You can see it if you take one of the blue service caps off. If you have fluorescent dye, it is easiest to see in the dark using a "black light" CFL bulb in your droplight.
When you turn the A/C on, does the compressor engage? Does the condenser fan run? If not, it is possible the fuse is blown. If the fan runs but the compressor doesn't, it is likely that all the refrigerant has leaked out.
The next step would be to see if there is any pressure in the lines using gauges.
There are a lot more connections than just those. The lines go all the way around across the front of the car, and through the firewall behind the battery. Inspect everywhere for dye. Dye is usually fluorescent yellow-green, like antifreeze. You can see it if you take one of the blue service caps off. If you have fluorescent dye, it is easiest to see in the dark using a "black light" CFL bulb in your droplight.
When you turn the A/C on, does the compressor engage? Does the condenser fan run? If not, it is possible the fuse is blown. If the fan runs but the compressor doesn't, it is likely that all the refrigerant has leaked out.
The next step would be to see if there is any pressure in the lines using gauges.
Thanks!
When I turn the A/C on, the compressor does not appear to engage the clutch, if that's what you meant. The condenser fan does run. If I'm understanding you, it sounds as if, it's likely that all the refrigerant has leaked out. If yes, I'll have to inspect, for dye more thoroughly but unfortunately, I don't have a "black light", drop-light or gauges. Are any of these, typically available, on free loaner programs, at auto parts stores? Also, what precautions, if any, do I need to take, if I remove one of the blue service caps off?
Do you have the equipment to verify if the system is currently holding a charge, or is it all done by that shop? What is the year and trim of the Civic in question? What compressor part # did you replace it with?
Any decent mechanic/shop should have a refrigerant leak detector that senses the halogen refrigerant itself. If this one doesn't, it might be time to find a new shop-- or at least an A/C shop that can handle this unit.
Do you have the equipment to verify if the system is currently holding a charge, or is it all done by that shop? What is the year and trim of the Civic in question? What compressor part # did you replace it with?
Any decent mechanic/shop should have a refrigerant leak detector that senses the halogen refrigerant itself. If this one doesn't, it might be time to find a new shop-- or at least an A/C shop that can handle this unit.
Thanks!
My bad, it's a 96 Civic EX.
I don't have the equipment, to verify if the system is currently holding a charge...Is it typically available as "free loaner" from auto parts stores?
To recap...I’ve been trying to get in to see the mechanic, I’ve been going to for 2 decades. He installed a new Denso 471-7050, for me and when it stopped blowing cold air said “freon leak”, refilled it and “added purple dye, so we can find leak”. BUT now, he seems to be too busy, on vacation or ignoring my calls...So, it looks like, you may be right.
Thing is, you can't really tell how much of a charge there is in the A/C unit if you put gauges on there. You can have the same static non running pressure at 3oz and 30oz since refrigerants are condensible.
The 96 Civic is one of the easiest A/C systems I've ever worked on. Almost everything is easy to reach and in sight. I wouldn't take it back to this shop but rather a dedicated A/C shop. A good one will have an all-in-one recovery station that can recover, weigh, charge, and evacuate the system. They will also have electronic leak detectors.
You can kind of skate by with little Walmart cans, a manifold set, and an electric vacuum pump, but you're guessing and it's never worth it on a small unit like this. My recommendation is to find a shop and see what they say. They can recover the refrigerant (if any) and weigh how much was left, and find the leak.
I reread your post and it seems like you may have more going on with the fuse popping. Does that still pop, and does the condenser fan come on with the A/C button on and blower fan on?
The OP said the fuse was blowing due to a shorted compressor, so the compressor was replaced.
It does take an investment in tools to work on A/C yourself. A manifold set would be the first A/C tool to buy, they are about $100. I don't think anyone has them as a "loaner" program since it is a precision item that needs to be carefully taken care of.
If the static pressure drops below 50 psi, which is basically a total leak-out, the pressure switch will open and the compressor won't run. This can also be checked by testing the switch with an ohmmeter if you don't have gauges.
Thing is, you can't really tell how much of a charge there is in the A/C unit if you put gauges on there. You can have the same static non running pressure at 3oz and 30oz since refrigerants are condensible.
The 96 Civic is one of the easiest A/C systems I've ever worked on. Almost everything is easy to reach and in sight. I wouldn't take it back to this shop but rather a dedicated A/C shop. A good one will have an all-in-one recovery station that can recover, weigh, charge, and evacuate the system. They will also have electronic leak detectors.
You can kind of skate by with little Walmart cans, a manifold set, and an electric vacuum pump, but you're guessing and it's never worth it on a small unit like this. My recommendation is to find a shop and see what they say. They can recover the refrigerant (if any) and weigh how much was left, and find the leak.
I reread your post and it seems like you may have more going on with the fuse popping. Does that still pop, and does the condenser fan come on with the A/C button on and blower fan on?
Thanks!
I'll stop by my mechanics and give him a "WTF?" but in the mean time, I'll be looking into a dedicated AC shop, as you recommend.
No, the fuse no longer pops, with the new Denso compressor installed.
Yes, the condenser fan comes on, with the A/C button on and blower fan on.
Yeah dude you can really screw off with this crap. It's Honda-Tech, not Honda-Post-Whoring-Bullshit. We knew what he meant with the freaking A/C system but I guess you didn't.
Per the sticker on the wifey's 96 Civic, it uses 21.2.-22.9oz. They might charge you more since it's outside of the 1 pound range. Just make sure they don't charge you twice because your system has a known leak. Let them know before you agree to whatever it is.
Last edited by sumdewd; 06-16-2018 at 06:29 PM.
Reason: Really?
Just bought a 30 lb tank of R-134a for $120.00. So don't waste it by for example charging a known leaker, but on the other hand don't let someone convince you it's expensive like gold.
Just bought a 30 lb tank of R-134a for $120.00. So don't waste it by for example charging a known leaker, but on the other hand don't let someone convince you it's expensive like gold.
Last June I bought two 30lb cylinders from Samsclub for about 90 bucks a piece to use with my refrigerant scale.
Those Walmart cans are still $4.88 around here for 12oz and it's still legal to do a static charge of R134a for leak checking. That's about the only use I see for them these days, honestly.
You can get a cheap penlight UV dye detector (with glasses) at most Wal-Marts or similar retailers these days. Don't waste your time or $$$ buying the little cans of refrigerant off the shelf though and PLEASE don't buy those cans that have "pre-filled with oil and stop-leak" written on them all you'll wind up doing is costing yourself more $ down the road as the majority of the A/C system will have to be ripped out & replaced.
The OP said the fuse was blowing due to a shorted compressor, so the compressor was replaced.
It does take an investment in tools to work on A/C yourself. A manifold set would be the first A/C tool to buy, they are about $100. I don't think anyone has them as a "loaner" program since it is a precision item that needs to be carefully taken care of.
If the static pressure drops below 50 psi, which is basically a total leak-out, the pressure switch will open and the compressor won't run. This can also be checked by testing the switch with an ohmmeter if you don't have gauges.
Thanks!
Too bad, no loaner, that’d be helpful but fwiw, I saw some gauges at HF, for under $70 that I think might be what I need.
That said, the $29.95 a/c special, I posted is from a general mechanic, like the one I can’t get a hold of, so I’m still looking into dedicated auto a/c shops. Found one pretty close, online with great reviews, so I’m interested to see what he his deal is.
Yeah dude you can really screw off with this crap. It's Honda-Tech, not Honda-Post-Whoring-Bullshit. We knew what he meant with the freaking A/C system but I guess you didn't.
Per the sticker on the wifey's 96 Civic, it uses 21.2.-22.9oz. They might charge you more since it's outside of the 1 pound range. Just make sure they don't charge you twice because your system has a known leak. Let them know before you agree to whatever it is.
Thanks, appreciate ya’!
Ain't got no time, for a troll's
16 oz per pound?
Let them know, not to charge me twice because it’s leaking OR just let them know it’s leaking?
Just bought a 30 lb tank of R-134a for $120.00. So don't waste it by for example charging a known leaker, but on the other hand don't let someone convince you it's expensive like gold.
Originally Posted by sumdewd
Last June I bought two 30lb cylinders from Samsclub for about 90 bucks a piece to use with my refrigerant scale.
Those Walmart cans are still $4.88 around here for 12oz and it's still legal to do a static charge of R134a for leak checking. That's about the only use I see for them these days, honestly.
Originally Posted by jonsey1886
You can get a cheap penlight UV dye detector (with glasses) at most Wal-Marts or similar retailers these days. Don't waste your time or $$$ buying the little cans of refrigerant off the shelf though and PLEASE don't buy those cans that have "pre-filled with oil and stop-leak" written on them all you'll wind up doing is costing yourself more $ down the road as the majority of the A/C system will have to be ripped out & replaced.
Tell them that another mechanic had it full and running a few days ago, so if the problem now is a leak out don't just recharge it: find the leak.
Thanks!
So, basically, be honest with him. I'll tell him there was a leak suspected, it was recharged and dye added. I need him to find the leak and give estimate on fixing it. What would you tell him, if he asked why not bring it back, to the other mechanic?
I mean you could say exactly what you told us. He's ignoring you, not working with your schedule, and is possibly not knowledgeable enough to work on this A/C system.
Might wanna see if the other one could give you a possible refund or some kind of credit, though. That would be the only benefit of going back. Entirely on you.
I mean you could say exactly what you told us. He's ignoring you, not working with your schedule, and is possibly not knowledgeable enough to work on this A/C system.
Might wanna see if the other one could give you a possible refund or some kind of credit, though. That would be the only benefit of going back. Entirely on you.
Thanks!
Sounds good...
Yeah, first, I'll try, to stop by and see the mechanic, who installed the new compressor. Depending, how that goes, I'll check out the dedicated pro, I found, too.
I re-read you, in an earlier post >>> "The 96 Civic is one of the easiest A/C systems I've ever worked on.". That said, if I can pick up the gauges and that penlight UV dye detector kit for less than $100, I'm wondering how "easy" is this job, for a newb?
only thing missing is you need pag 46 oil not 150 or any other #.
helm manual has some good tips too.
can pm you a link if you want it.
the cheapy kozyvac unit i got from ebay is adequate.
rent one free from orly would be my advice
only thing missing is you need pag 46 oil not 150 or any other #.
helm manual has some good tips too.
can pm you a link if you want it.
the cheapy kozyvac unit i got from ebay is adequate.
rent one free from orly would be my advice
Thanks!
Appreciate, the link, to the guide...
Looks like, I need more supplies and equipment.
06-15-2018, 09:41 AM
A/C compressor blowing hot air
Are any of these, typically available, on free loaner programs, at auto parts stores? Also, what precautions, if any, do I need to take, if I remove one of the blue service caps off?
