DFW

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Haveing some problems with my cluster and climate control. Both of them don't light
up at all, but on the cluster the high beam blue light comes on, turning signals
and all the normal oil, srs stuff when you first put the key in comes on. The gauges
don't light up or anything else on the cluster. We checked all the normal fuses, like
instument lights, radio clock and some other ones and none of them were blown. My
radio lights up though. Is the climate control lights the same as the gauge cluster and
radio?

Another problem is my windows. It's a 2000 dx hatch so it didn't come with power
windows but the previous owner put some in from a Ex I belive. Both of the
windows don't roll up all the way, they both get stuck half way and they are going off
the track. They go down fine but get stuck going up half way.

Ok last problem is my 2nd gear is poping out/grinding. It's poping out of 2nd gear only a lot and grinds sometimes also. Some times it will go in and be fine for a little bit then pop out and when I try to put it back in it just grinds and won't go in. And When I try to shift into 2nd from 1st going fast it will just grind and won't go in and when I try to down shift into 2nd gear it wont go in, it'll just grind if I try to. All the other gears are perfectly fine.

THANKS!

96CivicBoostCoupe

sounds like your 2nd gear synchro is shot and is going to have to be replaced. Although you maybe able to try some thicker fluid like gm synchromesh or lucas racing gear oil to try and clean it up a little

Darkhour Racing

As far as your gauge cluster and climate control, it sounds like a problem centered around your dimmer switch. It could be a short or a cut wire. Pull out the dimmer switch control box thing and check the connections and wires for the plug, the black, red, and red w/ black stripe. Try moving the black wire back and forth to see if there is a loose connection there, the black wire goes to the gauge cluster and the climate control. Without looking at your car first hand this would be your best bet.

twenty

same problem with my cluster and interior lights

DFW

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96CivicBoostCoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like your 2nd gear synchro is shot and is going to have to be replaced. Although you maybe able to try some thicker fluid like gm synchromesh or lucas racing gear oil to try and clean it up a little</TD></TR></TABLE>

How much and how hard is it to replace the synchro? I guess I'll try some thicker fluid.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Darkhour Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as your gauge cluster and climate control, it sounds like a problem centered around your dimmer switch. It could be a short or a cut wire. Pull out the dimmer switch control box thing and check the connections and wires for the plug, the black, red, and red w/ black stripe. Try moving the black wire back and forth to see if there is a loose connection there, the black wire goes to the gauge cluster and the climate control. Without looking at your car first hand this would be your best bet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alright, I'll try that when I get home from class.

Thanks a lot guys. Anyone else have any ideas on the problems? What about the windows?

snatch

Another idea about the 2nd gear issue, it could be popping out due to a bent shift fork. The grinding is likely the synchro, but I don't think a synchro would cause it to pop out of gear. That's usually a bent fork. In this case you'd be ahead to probably just pick up another d-series tranny, provided you still have a d-series in there.

As for the windows, maybe the regulators are broken or wore out. There are little nylon wheels in there that roll back and forth in the track when you put the window up or down and they tend to wear out after awhile. You might pull off a door panel and then the plastic weather cover and see if you can see any obvious snags or broken pieces.

DFW

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ****** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another idea about the 2nd gear issue, it could be popping out due to a bent shift fork. The grinding is likely the synchro, but I don't think a synchro would cause it to pop out of gear. That's usually a bent fork. In this case you'd be ahead to probably just pick up another d-series tranny, provided you still have a d-series in there.

As for the windows, maybe the regulators are broken or wore out. There are little nylon wheels in there that roll back and forth in the track when you put the window up or down and they tend to wear out after awhile. You might pull off a door panel and then the plastic weather cover and see if you can see any obvious snags or broken pieces.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are tranny swaps hard? How much are d16y7 trannys usally? And yeah I was going to pull the door panels off and so what was going this weekend. Thanks, keep the comments comeing

snatch

Tranny swaps are not hard at all, just time consuming. If you've never done it, give yourself 5 hours or so.

You can find a D16Y7 tranny for dirt cheap, like $100 or so. But while you're at it, why not upgrade to a Y8 tranny for about $250-$300? Shorter gearing, much better acceleration.

DFW

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ****** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tranny swaps are not hard at all, just time consuming. If you've never done it, give yourself 5 hours or so.

You can find a D16Y7 tranny for dirt cheap, like $100 or so. But while you're at it, why not upgrade to a Y8 tranny for about $250-$300? Shorter gearing, much better acceleration.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alright, doesn't sound too bad then. I'm not guna keep the motor, so the stock tranny will be fine untill I get a swap, when ever that is.

EM1_

i do agree...go ahead and do a EX tranny..and i would go ahead and replace the clutch as well..so you'll have that part out of the way in the near future...exedy makes some good clutchs for d series..goodluck man

hondakevin21

I'm with the other guy in saying that it sounds like your synchro is going out, i'm not sure about the cluster problem but the window problem if I were you i'd just replace them back to manual roll up windows and save yourself alot of problems.

DFW

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondakevin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm with the other guy in saying that it sounds like your synchro is going out, i'm not sure about the cluster problem but the window problem if I were you i'd just replace them back to manual roll up windows and save yourself alot of problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah that's what I was thinking about doing if I can't get the power ones to work. But I found an ex tranny for the same price as a dx so we'll see what happens.

DFW

iTrader: (1)

IF my dimmer switch was causing the problem, could I only get a 99-00 one off a hatch or can I get it off any other year ek hatch or coupe.

DFW

iTrader: (1)

ttt

Darkhour Racing

If you want to replace the dimmer switch then you need the one from 99-00, but you don't necessarily need to. The problem is probably in the wires leading to and from the dimmer switch but without looking at it myself, hard to tell.

DFW

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Darkhour Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want to replace the dimmer switch then you need the one from 99-00, but you don't necessarily need to. The problem is probably in the wires leading to and from the dimmer switch but without looking at it myself, hard to tell.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I know, just saying if I need to. Is the coupe the same as the hatch?

DFW

iTrader: (1)

bump

DFW

iTrader: (1)

Pulling out the the door panels t/m hopefully and checking the wires for the cluster too. Hopefully its an easy fix.

95ejjj

Got the same problem with the windows too

Darkhour Racing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DFW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah I know, just saying if I need to. Is the coupe the same as the hatch?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes

JDM_Ej

For the windows, I would grease the tracks. Take off the panel and look in there to make sure that the rubber track isn't folding in on itself as the windows is going up. The problem here is, the factory window regulators are made from some cheap *** sheet metal. One good bind and they are bent to **** and your window won't work right. If you are going to keep power, i would get two new power window regulators and make sure the regulator itself and the window tracks are lubricated well.

As for the cluster problem, there is only one wire that feeds all of that. If it is in fact your dimmer, you should be able to bypass it. I dont know how good you are with 12v wiring, but this should be faily simple. With the help of a shop manual, figure out what color wire runs "illumination" to the dashboard. Provide this with a 12v source, and see if your cluster lights up. Backtrack from there. A "computer-safe" test light or a multimeter would come in handy, as you can check the wire for continutity, or a grounded, broken section.

The tranny question seems to have been covered.

Good luck!

DFW

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the windows, I would grease the tracks. Take off the panel and look in there to make sure that the rubber track isn't folding in on itself as the windows is going up. The problem here is, the factory window regulators are made from some cheap *** sheet metal. One good bind and they are bent to **** and your window won't work right. If you are going to keep power, i would get two new power window regulators and make sure the regulator itself and the window tracks are lubricated well.

As for the cluster problem, there is only one wire that feeds all of that. If it is in fact your dimmer, you should be able to bypass it. I dont know how good you are with 12v wiring, but this should be faily simple. With the help of a shop manual, figure out what color wire runs "illumination" to the dashboard. Provide this with a 12v source, and see if your cluster lights up. Backtrack from there. A "computer-safe" test light or a multimeter would come in handy, as you can check the wire for continutity, or a grounded, broken section.

The tranny question seems to have been covered.

Good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just got a helms manual so I'll look through that. Thanks

DFW

iTrader: (1)

Is Pennzoil Synchromesh fluid as good as GM Synchromesh fluid?

DFW

iTrader: (1)

Ok got both windows back on track, now the passenger is off track again it keeps getting off and stuck on the weather stripping.

DFW

iTrader: (1)

Do I need a whole new window channel?