deschlong

iTrader: (8)

That's A13.

Ohhh, I see, you thought there was a wire that needed to be added or whatever to sub in for the wire for the ignition key light, but then realized you can just leave it blank/empty.

tony_2018

ah, got it. didn't see the civic pins at the end of the line.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

The notch for the rear window sprayer can be notched out of the plastic with the help of a dremel and a file. No need for a whole new rear spoiler. All the mounts are there. This is originally how I did my retrofit.

However, I would DEFINITELY recommend a complete rear window glass replacement since the rear defrost wiring is all different on the glass, and gluing on top of the defrost wiring is .... not good. It will severely limit or effectively disable the rear defrost. Just buy the whole unit including the motor and all the wiring from that 95 donor. (I guessssssss, in theory the plastic with the notch for the sprayer is swappable onto your green spoiler, buttttt these things plus the tabs that hold them in place are quite brittle after all this time and I would NOT recommend it.)

TomCat39

If anything, I could repin my car right now and just tape off the 4 rear window wash wires for later use and get the added light on reminder of the CRV ICU. Then when I figure out the rear window wash stuff on my car, be even more prepared to fix up wife's car that already has rear wiper and wash but not the CRV ICU yet..

tony_2018

If you're prepared to go back under there again....

TomCat39

Yeah, that part is short work. Especially since it's pretty stock wiring under there now. All the mess is elsewhere.

The part that caused me to pause was the rear washer/wiper bit since the civic doesn't go through the ICU. It meant rewiring or depinning certain areas less accessible.

TomCat39

So with my sore, weak and aching hands I decided I would attack the radio not working after wiring in the stock radio plug etc. Digging into it I found I was not getting ignition 12V only the constant battery 12 volts. So I start tracing back and looked into my ETM to find the wire runs back to the under dash fuse panel and utilizes fuse #23. At some point I pulled what ever fuse junction was there (think they had a 20 amp in there with a wire running off it). Anyways, radio wasn't coming on as there was no fuse in #23. Plug a 15A fuse in and radio comes on but right speaker doesn't work. I then tear even more apart accept the glove box and blower motor section and begin doing continuity tests back to the radio. Got continuity all through out so I think I miss plugged the speaker spades in. The reason I suspect this is as after I had everything apart and did all the tests and replugged the spades to the speaker, all worked fine. go figure. Got the car mostly back together but leaving the door panel off as I want to pull the mirrors back off to finish cleaning plastidip off the car. Mainly rubbers and seams is what is left.

Also looked at the poly I used on the door and it's 6 mil thickness so either just as thick or a little thicker than the OEM poly. Should last a good long time.

My hands are too sore from work to do anything major but next step is to drop the tranny and put in my DX tranny. As previously mentioned, the VX one has issues that need the case cracked open to fix. Worse case value, I transfer the gear sets over to another small bearing S20.

Tomorrow I think I'll pull the ICU out and do the repin to the CRV unit. Should be 20 minute job if all goes well. Then I might at least put her back up on stands to prep for the tranny job.

TomCat39

I felt a bit better today and decided to clean up the garage and get the car prepped for the tranny swap. Part of that prep was cleaning a container for the brand new tranny fluid. Saving it as it's brand spanking new fluid with the molyslip additive etc. It can go into the DX tranny.

I am tired of fighting with lighting on the interior as well as any work on the passenger side so I thought I'd be funny and put the car sideways in the garage. It actually works out very well and I still have room for the engine hoist in front of it. It also hides my mess on the back side of the garage.




This is in the process of repinning the 15 pin connector on the CRV ICU with the 8 pins (of a 10 pin connector) of the civic stock harness. I tested everything once complete and everything works perfectly, alarm, all lights and the light on chime is an awesome addition. To make life easy I put 1,2,3,4,5,6,..... down the 15 pin connector and followed my list above. I noticed for #B3 I forgot to put the colors down of yellow/blue. If you are going to grab the list and leave your rear window wash stock, add Yllw/Blu to the lead in of B3. All the rest is there and pretty accurate. Not sure if the steering column side notes are accurate for the CRV but I know it's the steering column of the civic hatchbacks. I also capped the 5 unused wires and left them the CRV default wires as place holders in the connector for now. It's wrapped around the 8 harness wires going to the connector. You can see 2 of them shooting off in the picture below. Oh, and yes I undid the negative on the battery before I started. Don't want to fry anything by trying to do it with a live fuse panel.


Since I didn't feel up to doing any heavy or under car work for the tranny besides draining it, I decided to pull the driver door panel as I was needing to anyway to be able to remove the mirror for plastidip cleanup. The vapor barrier wasn't as bad but still peeled back so needed repair. Notice the speaker orientation, it will change as the installer cut the cups horribly and only secured the speaker with 2 screws. I fixed that with new cups with the back cut out leaving all screw holes intact. I then used all 7 screw holes to secure the speaker. As you can see I folded the open part of the poly in behind itself so you could see the extent of the damage. The rest of it is still in fine shape.




Here is after I cut the damaged section out.




Here is after I've glued in (with permatex the right stuff) replacement 6 mil poly, trimmed and tuck taped it to the good OEM poly sealing the door back up to OEM standards.



This is a pricture of the full final results of the door, including the speaker fix.



I also put in the OEM Stanley corner lights. All that's left to do is to swap the tranny to my good working DX tranny and finish cleaning off the plastidip out of all the crevices and rubbers and figure out what I'm going to do with the sunroof. Plastidip and tranny is minimum requirements to begin driving her. I will clean up and tape the sunroof up to seal it for now until I have a more permanent fix. She's coming along and should be on the road in the next week or two.

TomCat39

So Tuesday I pulled the passenger fender off and the cowl to inspect the seam seal in the TSB and for rust under the windshield. All looked well as can be seen in the photos below. I am even more confident the problem was the wire harness door jam grommet being pulled out of place and not sealing the jam from rain and water.


Lots of seam seal as well as lots of dirt and grime from road/rain water running down the seal.








Under the cowl is pretty good shape, no rust is apparent.






This wire harness grommet was not in the frame and until I removed the fender I was unable to work it back into place. And in the photos you can see water trails which without that grommet flows right into the passenger cabin by the ECU. I'm pretty sure this is where the majority of the passenger floor water has been coming from.




After this, I replaced the head light lenses as the passenger had a broken frame so the corner light didn't have anything to hang from or screw to. And the drivers side had a crack. I get to aim the lights once she's ready to roll.

Thursday I started prepping for the tranny swap by unhooking all the wire harness connectors, pushed the bitch pin out and unhooked the linkage support bar as well as took off the VX exclusive exhaust to transmission bracket as well as unbolted the rear tranny/motor mount.

Tonight (Friday) I popped the lower ball joints, pulled the axles out of the tranny, bagged them and tied them up out of the way of the tranny. I then unbolted the bell housing and unbolted the tranny side mount and dropped the VX tranny with the help of my floor jack. Then with the help of a ratchet strap and my floor jack I mated my DX tranny to the engine. Did all of this solo as is most of my work on the car(s).

I just get to put the axles back in, do up the lower ball joints again and redo all the wiring plugs etc and fill with fluid. Will be driving her next week.

tony_2018

Even with a trans jack I'd still struggle getting it on...I guess the angle is what gives me the most grief.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Crigey, nice work TomCat. Thorough investigation of your water leak, too. My father's 92 Si has one on the driver's side and we were never able to track it down. He just parks it in the garage, now. (I keep a list of projects to tackle when I visit.) If all the seam seals look good and that grommet was off then there's a good chance you've found it. You'll find out soon enough given you're on the Wet Coast!

Curious why you want to temp mount the DX trans instead of fixing the VX one and reinstalling it? So you can drive it sooner? Seems like a lot of mucking around for not much benefit if you're going to swap in the VX one again in short order.

All I managed to do yesterday was my first valve stem grommet job on the ZC head. Baby steps. 😎

TomCat39

I found a pretty good trick. I use my above engine support beam I made out of 2x4's and I put the floor jack under the engine on the oil pan with a chunk of 2x4. I then use a ratchet strap to raise the transmission to height. With the floor jack I can raise and lower the engine to get the right angle. And with the ratchet strap attached to the front bracket and the linkage support bracket bolt I can easily tilt and manipulate the tranny.

It's lowering where I think I messed up and broke the VX tranny. The back end banged into the concrete floor and is where the bad sound is coming from.

Yeah to get it on the road sooner. I know myself and it could be a bit of time before I fix the VX tranny. Now that I've re-arranged the VX exclusive exhaust tranny bracket bolt setup. Doing a tranny swap is pretty easy. I didn't even remove the inspection plate this time or any exhaust, it was purely the shift linkage, that exhaust bracket, the wiring, pop the two lower ball joints, pull out the air box resonator, the tranny torque mount and rear mount and that's about it. Oh and did take out the dizzy so it's not in the way.

This way I can be over 40 MPG instead of averaging 28 mpg and premium fuel while I get some other projects done like my wife's door panels and take my time going over the VX tranny. Or even repair my Si tranny. Or finally blue print my B7 blocks fully etc. Or the around the house projects like finish painting the Master Bedroom or other things wife would like done.

Oh and begin my secondary employment doing deliveries. The '07 Si isn't that good of a delivery vehicle with the super stiff suspension and coupe design.

chrysler kid

I use a floor jack and a ratchet strap to shimmy the transmission into a workable area

I thought I used this method on my old ex, but all I can find is when I did it on the eclipse.

I think on the d-series I used a bolt and nut in one of the mounting holes and then layed a piece of metal across the engine bay. Or maybe strut bar

TomCat39

Very similar. I should take a couple of pics. I made a support to hold the engine when tranny is out. I feed a rachet strap around the engine to the tranny side of the fuel rail so as to not put any pressure on the fuel rail. I have a small hole in the IM the strap runs through that also misses the breather box and just sits inside the widening of the block that connects to the bell housing.

That same bar lets me use the ratchet strap to the d-series tranny. I found putting the bolt back in to the shift linkage support bar bracket is a prime spot for one hook and the other hook slides right into the hole of the bracket that has the plastic main rad hose holder. I always take out that plastic rad hose holder so I don't break it messing with the tranny. The mount hole for it is pretty big and that bracket on the tranny is nicely located on the front side.

I can set it up real qwik today for a picture or two. I suspect it could be helpful for others doing the old tranny fight.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

^ Indeed! Next project after getting the RTSi up and running is to replace the clutch & flywheel & misc seals on the hatchback.

TomCat39

As promised photo's of my one man tranny swap setup for the 5th gen D-series civics.


My home made 2x4 engine/tranny support. The 2x4 flexes but is strong. Wood also doesn't harm the metal or paint.




Tranny hooked up to the support. As I ratchet I pull one strap or the other to rotate the tranny. And when I need tilt, I can reach over the fender and grab the sides towards the back of the tranny and lift or drop to tilt as needed. I also slap my crank pulley tool in the holes of the pulley so I can turn the crank CCW a slight bit at a time until the Input Shaft slides into the clutch disc.




These next two pictures show exactly where I hook into on the tranny when I'm lifting it into place. This is the backside on the shift linkage support bar bracket. I used a valve cap bolt but usually just put the regular bolt back in. Currently it's on the tranny in the car.




Then on the front, this blurry picture shows the hook in the bracket. One of the previous pictures shows the same bracket. The hole the hook is in normally holds a white plastic rad hose holder.




Now showing how I strap the engine so as to be able to drop the tranny without pulling the engine.




This is where I run the strap to avoid the fuel rail, water pipe and breather box.




This shows where the strap comes down past the IM on the back of the block.



Different angle of the same area of the strap.



And here is where the strap comes up from under the engine, staying on the engine and not interfering with the tranny.



I also will put my floor jack under the shallow portion of the oil pan and put a small chunk of 2x4 on it's side to fit up right next to the exhaust pipe. This allows me to lift and lower the engine to change the tilt by a few degrees. Also you can loosen the strap etc to get the right angle for tranny insertion.

After doing it a few times, I can solo it in about 6-8 non rushed hours, unhooking and hooking everything up as well as torquing all the bolts to spec etc.

tony_2018

Nice, now to find me some more free wood on craigslist.

TomCat39

It was way easier to make than to try and see if I could spend a small fortune getting the fancy metal support setup from Honda.

Yesterday I put the car back together with new bumper filler and the new bumper cover metal top bar from the salvage yard. Car didn't have either one. Also drilled out the bad bolt hole and carbide ground it open enough for a M6 x 1.0 rivnut. I now have all five rubber washer bumper bolts holding the bumper cover on. After putting the tranny fluid in, I started her up and she sounded normal thankfully.

Today is get her out of the garage, do a bit more plastidip cleanup around the edges and rubbers on the windows etc. Give her a bath and I'll be driving her to work tomorrow.

I did find that the DX tranny is going to hurt the fuel economy a bit on the highway. 100 KPH shes sitting at 2500 rpm and the ECU says upshift but there is no 6th to goto lol. The VX 100 KPH was roughly 1500 rpm. Around town I can just shift to a higher gear to keep the rpm down but on the highway I'm gonna lose a bit. Looks like I should focus on the VX tranny sooner instead of later.

tony_2018

mpg is amazing but the power is non-existent. Its fine by me, I bought the motor for specifically mpg savings. I might be an owner of a 3rd gen prius soon so this might be a project civic. Will find out what the condition will be when I get back to Austin.

TomCat39

Did you get the tranny with the motor or just the motor and slapped it into a car?

tony_2018

tranny with motor, I did some testing with an automatic, got it to engage eco mode WITH the automatic, but went back to the 5spd that it came with. If I had to replace I probably would've gone with a dx/lx since I had plans to boost with the edelbrock turbo kit.

tony_2018

When I get back I'll confirm the rpm it sits at while going 75mph.

TomCat39

Wow nice, not sure how you managed to run the engine and an auto and get everything working. I didn't know any of the standalone systems or chipped setups would work the 4th and lock out of the auto tranny.

For a turbo setup, I would think the 3 stage motor would be the best option, get all the worlds, power and economy.

tony_2018

dual ecu, crazy setup. It was through trial and error, studying the FSM and going for it.

TomCat39

That's insane Tony. I tried wrapping my head around the idea trying to imagine how it would work, not sure how you kept it from fighting each other. That's something else.

So Tony, when you drive the D15Z1, does the engine sound different than the normal 1.5 and 1.6 liter motors? Mine sounds pretty rough in low rpm and sounds more normal after 3500 or more rpm. Almost sounds like a whole lot of piston slap when taking off in first gear.

I spent almost all day yesterday cleaning the plastidip off all the rubbers and handles etc. I'll have to replace some of the window weather stripping. I ripped a couple of them. After washing the car, I didn't feel any water down in the ECU area but I'm going to check after a solid day of rain to be sure.

Here is how she looks now:







So I left the gas door gold plastidip and the rear tailgate. Everything else has been stripped. The wheel were painted white, might be plastidip. One has peeled while two are pretty solid with some black gunk in them and another started bubbling with the pressure sprayer yesterday. So 1 silver and 3 white rims.

I didn't bother with the tailgate as I need a new one as they screwed a metal screw through the tailgate after breaking one of the top plate bolts off. I also haven't cleaned and put back the roof strips yet and will need to tape up the sunroof a bit better, can hear air coming in which means water will to.

40 bucks to fill from empty and I believe it will last me a week instead of just 3-4 days. I'm looking forward to better economy.

Tony, or anyone else familiar with the D15Z1 motor, does it sound different under low rpm load than the other D series motors?