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Hm, check to make sure your pcv system is working properly. I know its an old engine but still.
Pretty sure that was already done. Brand new PCV valve was put in prior to running. Cleaned breather box installed, new breather box seal, new breather tube (to PVC valve), new breather box grommet. That hole system is almost all brand new.
It is pretty uncommon to push a front or rear main seal out of an engine... unless you have a whole lot of boost pressure and a piston/ring failure. Are you sure you didn't put that front main seal in and accidentally pinch a tiny bit of the lip when tapping it in ??? That seems more likely to me.
It is pretty uncommon to push a front or rear main seal out of an engine... unless you have a whole lot of boost pressure and a piston/ring failure. Are you sure you didn't put that front main seal in and accidentally pinch a tiny bit of the lip when tapping it in ??? That seems more likely to me.
I'm thinking I should take the hit and purchase a leak down tester. I am not sure what would be considered a high percentage to indicate a bad sealing of the combustion chamber but I supose I could learn.
The oil smelled of gas really fast on a fresh oil change.
Also the seal wasn't installed in your normal method. It was installed into the oil pump on the bench after testing the specs of the oil pump. Then the oil pump was installed onto the block. I used petroleum jelly and molybdenum grease to pad the lip of the seal before installing. If I remember correctly there is a groove on both the oil pump side crank snout as well as the transmission side crank snout.
On install, the seal looked perfectly fine but did drop a little oil on running. I attributed that to the groove. Also it took multiple days with sporadic 7000 RPM rips before the lip looks like you see above and the motor pouring oil out of it when running. I can even pinpoint when I did my last 7000 rpm rip in 3rd gear and was glad I was fairly close to home on the freeway or I believe it would have been more than 2 liters lost and a whole different scenario.
I was thinking that all the rings are pretty bad and oil has been sealing them up to give the "good" compression numbers. Driving mellowly doesn't seem to be an issue but when doing WOT 7000 RPM is when I suspected the blow by is at it's worst and more than the PCV system could keep up with.
Will a leak down test collaborate that theory at all?
I'm still waiting for Amazon to get stock in for the crank repair sleeves. I'm thinking a leak down tester will aid in learning which way to go. Maybe the groove caused the lip to curl in a little on install and then the 7000 rpm rips with blow-by just finished the job. Or maybe the cheap motor had way more issues than the seller would ever admit to. It was cheap for being a Z6 motor.
That was the plan. Amazon still doesn't have stock of either one. Been paid for already.
Ordered the % style leak down tester. 50 bucks cheaper than the OTC brand one. Will see what the results show as I will likely receive that before I receive these repair sleeves.
I've used both kinds over the years, but I think I like the % one better since you don't have to do any math with that one. I was really good at maths in school (trig, analytical geometry, calculus, etc.), but simple math is where most of the mistakes happened.
I think you used the wrong crank seal. Only use felpro gaskets and seals, other brands use harder rubber polymer blends that have a tendency to get harder and more brittle
My felpro front crank seals and rear crank seals are always orange. So I suspect the seal is the problem
There is no way you could have enough blow by to blow a seal. I had a turbo eclipse blowing 18psi into the valve cover and the worse it ever did was reek of burnt oil smell under boost. There is no way you could have enough blow by to pressurize the crank case without an extreme misfire. 99% sure you just got a crap seal
I've used both kinds over the years, but I think I like the % one better since you don't have to do any math with that one. I was really good at maths in school (trig, analytical geometry, calculus, etc.), but simple math is where most of the mistakes happened.
Thanks, glad I could save a little while also making life a little easier. I've not been having good luck lately with my car work.
Originally Posted by tony_2018
Be glad its not a dire emergency item right now....
Very good point. I am glad it doesn't put me down for the count.
Originally Posted by chrysler kid
There is no way you could have enough blow by to blow a seal. I had a turbo eclipse blowing 18psi into the valve cover and the worse it ever did was reek of burnt oil smell under boost. There is no way you could have enough blow by to pressurize the crank case without an extreme misfire. 99% sure you just got a crap seal.
This is good to know. JRCivic1 was saying the same thing. Still needed to get a leakdown tester so I can get a better idea of engine health, like if I bent a valve on my Z1 when I spun the crank the other night (sigh). More bad luck and not thinking clearly when working on stuff as of late.
I don't think it was a bad seal, it's OEM NOK like I mentioned in previous post. There is a pretty big groove on both sides of the crank. If anything the soft lip caught in the groove and slightly flipped in on install of the oil pump and just couldn't take the abuse out of position if what you and JRCivic1 says is true.
Things I've done with a pressurized crank case in a turbo car due to blow by or a faulty pcv system
1. Shot the dipstick to the moon. The dipstick is the first thing to unseal from the pressure and pushes oil out all over the exhaust manifold
2. Shot oil out everywhere from the oil cap all over the engine bay
3. Push oil out through the breather tube back into the turbo charger. Yep smoke like crazy
Reasons the d series would never do that
The valve cover breather hose that goes into the corner of the valve cover into the intake hose would push mass amount of oil or pressure back into the intake. There isnt even a way to pressurized the crank case on these cars because that breather tube is basically pressure neutral
100% positive you got a **** seal
Last edited by chrysler kid; 03-20-2020 at 04:27 AM.
Also to be technical the felpro being a fatter seal is better.
However soft rubber does not split like that, it would have torn or ripped first, yours is just plain cracked showing a low elasticity.
A leak down tester in my opinion is a fancy tool to see where you are losing compression at top dead center. If your compression is good then there is nothing a leak down tester will tell you if you set the regulator to be the correct psi
For example after doing a compression test you show 160psi in the cylinder, you then set the regulator to factory new compression let's say 180psi, of course the test will show your piston rings have worn and they are the cause for the 20psi drop from new to current.
A leak down tester in my opinion is a fancy tool to see where you are losing compression at top dead center. If your compression is good then there is nothing a leak down tester will tell you if you set the regulator to be the correct psi
For example after doing a compression test you show 160psi in the cylinder, you then set the regulator to factory new compression let's say 180psi, of course the test will show your piston rings have worn and they are the cause for the 20psi drop from new to current.
Yeah, the leak down tester purchase isn't just for this motor. I have 5 engines on hand at the moment. Three in cars and two that are not. I'd like to know a bit more on the less compression cylinders of the engines than what the compression test tells.
As well as have a better diagnostic tool on hand for future use.
Amazon.ca emailed me today saying they cancelled the Fel pro 16275 repair sleeve due to a lack of availability. Went to order it from another vendor on Amazon.ca for a higher price that claimed to have stock then said screw it and ordered it and the SKF 99123 repair sleeve from Rockauto. Cancelled the backordered SKF from Amazon and also cancelled my order I just placed for the 30 dollar 16275 off Amazon I re-ordered.
So after shipping and conversion I'm paying 70 bucks CAD for 2 Fel pro 16275 sleeves and one SKF 99123 repair sleeve all in stock at RockAuto it would appear. Just the 2 sleeves on Amazon, I was up to 70 bucks so this way I get a 2nd rear main sleeve as that seems to be a very common groove to find.
I also got my leak down tester ABN brand and I won't recommend them. The "percentage" gauge was faulty. I tried messing with it to no avail. So I've ordered 2 liquid filled 100 PSI pressure gauges and will just do the math method after I replace the original pressure gauges in the setup. It's pretty straight forward that way and very easy to see if there is any variance in the gauges prior to test. Also I'm in it for about the same 100 bucks as the OTC tester, difference I think is I will have higher quality/accuracy liquid filled gauges and I think the OTC brand is also dry gauges.
I got my liquid filled 100 psi gauges in yesterday, got all excited and went and grabbed the leak down tester.
Turns out the leak down tester uses the same compression tester fittings of M10 x 1.0 while these gauges came with the standard M14 x 1.5 fittings. I don't have an M10 x 1.0 tap and die sooooo I'm looking for the compression tester adapter for motorcycle/atv that is the M10. I have 1 but seems I can't find a second for a reasonable price. Acklangs Grainger canada has it for 9 bucks each, 28 bucks after shipping for 2. Annoying, shouldn't be that expensive for such a simple yet hardly used adapter. I might bite the bullet and do it anyway, just didn't want to be in this thing over a hundred bucks let alone pushing 120...
Only ever use Honda Crank seals, and if you aren't comfortable with lining it up and installing call a friend over to do it. It must go on completely straight or the wire spring will come out and look how yours does.
And you need a fuse close to the battery for your amplifier.
Only ever use Honda Crank seals, and if you aren't comfortable with lining it up and installing call a friend over to do it. It must go on completely straight or the wire spring will come out and look how yours does.
And you need a fuse close to the battery for your amplifier.
There is a very deep groove on the crank snout. Doesn't matter what seal goes in or how perfect it's mounted, it's going to leak. As well the groove is going to catch the lip enough that when it spins it's going to allow it to grab it and fold it out. It needs a repair sleeve.
I agree with chrysler kid about Fel Pro main seals being beafier than OEM seals. In this case, I did use an OEM seal but even still, with the groove, I personally believe even the heartier Fel Pro would fail.
Why does the fuse have to be at the battery in the weather? If the current draw exceeds 15 amp (on a 10amp amp) it will blow the fuse no matter where on the positive power line the fuse is as far as I understand it. Also, the electrons flow reverse to the positive post, so if anything the fuse by the amp will catch it prior to it reaching anywhere near the positive post.
Why does the fuse have to be at the battery in the weather? If the current draw exceeds 15 amp (on a 10amp amp) it will blow the fuse no matter where on the positive power line the fuse is as far as I understand it. Also, the electrons flow reverse to the positive post, so if anything the fuse by the amp will catch it prior to it reaching anywhere near the positive post.
Expand the thought a little bit... The fuse isn't there for the sake of the component only. It's for protecting the entire circuit. Consider: What if the fuse was right at the component with the battery feed 10ft long? What happens if the wire rubs between the fuse and the battery? Arcing is going to happen and the potential for burning something up exists. I've seen large holes burnt into metal because of stuff wired wrong.
Expand the thought a little bit... The fuse isn't there for the sake of the component only. It's for protecting the entire circuit. Consider: What if the fuse was right at the component with the battery feed 10ft long? What happens if the wire rubs between the fuse and the battery? Arcing is going to happen and the potential for burning something up exists. I've seen large holes burnt into metal because of stuff wired wrong.
It's funny how the brain works so much better in the morning than at night before going to bed.
I just woke up and saw exactly that. The fuse at the positive post is exactly because the electrons flow to the positive post. If the wire rubs through anywhere along the way, there is no fuse between the battery and the wire shorting out to the body which is a major problem.
Thank you guys, you got me thinking about this and even answered it just in case it had not popped into my head as I woke up this morning. It's probably because you answered it that it came to me before I got down here to the laptop. heh. Thank you again!
Originally Posted by 94 Civic Si
Perhaps some fusible link? Then no weather concerns...
The fuse is one of the covered types. The kit I should have gotten has it built in. I'll just have to seal my crimps with some rtv on the wire connection side. It was this silly concern that had me put the fuse in the wrong spot.
03-13-2020, 02:43 PM
Re: Bringing life back to an abused 92 CDM VX
