Brakes are shot?
05-16-2004, 09:59 AM
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Brakes are shot?
My rotors are lookin pretty shady and my pads are gonna be be down to metal soon. Dont really know what would be the best bang for my buck. 4 lug eg help it out thanks for feedback. 
Modified by JDCiv at 11:41 PM 5/16/2004
Modified by JDCiv at 11:41 PM 5/16/2004
05-16-2004, 11:14 PM
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i dont really get what you're saying but
here's a link for rotors at a great price
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=831188
and as for brake pads, i hear aem are good for those.
here's a link for rotors at a great price
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=831188
and as for brake pads, i hear aem are good for those.
05-17-2004, 12:29 AM
#4
Re: (EJcoupe)
dealer pads are good, see if you can get your rotors machined instead of buying new ones. any machine shop will do them. sears does it. thats where i work. let me know if you need help.
05-17-2004, 05:52 AM
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Re: Brakes are shot? (JDCiv)
Go to a local Advance Auto Parts, say what kinda car you have and tell them you want rotors and pads. I have a 93 cx hatch and rotors for my car are 16 somthin a piece, and the bendix gold brake pads are like 25 bucks. So that means for around 60 bucks, front breaks are taken care of, and for like another 25 more, so are the backs. Just stick with stock breaks unless you are doing 130 mph at the end of the 1320 or your autocrossing or something dumb like that.
05-17-2004, 06:08 AM
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Re: (IVI)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dealer pads are good, see if you can get your rotors machined instead of buying new ones. any machine shop will do them. sears does it. thats where i work. let me know if you need help.
</TD></TR></TABLE> i have worked in shops for a few years.. i would personally NEVER machine rotors.. they warp very quickly.. they rarely ever last the life of the pads.. spo then you gotta buy rotors and another set of pads.. just replace the rotors also.. you can get them from a parts store for like 20 bucks a pop...
</TD></TR></TABLE> i have worked in shops for a few years.. i would personally NEVER machine rotors.. they warp very quickly.. they rarely ever last the life of the pads.. spo then you gotta buy rotors and another set of pads.. just replace the rotors also.. you can get them from a parts store for like 20 bucks a pop...
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05-17-2004, 08:23 AM
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Re: (ekb18cCivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekb18cCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i have worked in shops for a few years.. i would personally NEVER machine rotors.. they warp very quickly.. you can get them from a parts store for like 20 bucks a pop... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Theres your problem if you buy the cheap rotors then yes they will warp faster and they are prob at if not near minimum thickness sometimes. If your saying that rotors warp faster due to machining rotors then you must be doing something wrong. I have machined rotors and if you do it right it will be equalivent to a new rotor and will work just as good.
You should measure and see if your rotors can be resurfaced it will save you $$$$.
Theres your problem if you buy the cheap rotors then yes they will warp faster and they are prob at if not near minimum thickness sometimes. If your saying that rotors warp faster due to machining rotors then you must be doing something wrong. I have machined rotors and if you do it right it will be equalivent to a new rotor and will work just as good.
You should measure and see if your rotors can be resurfaced it will save you $$$$.
05-17-2004, 08:27 AM
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Re: (BatuKing)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BatuKing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Theres your problem if you buy the cheap rotors then yes they will warp faster and they are prob at if not near minimum thickness sometimes. If your saying that rotors warp faster due to machining rotors then you must be doing something wrong. I have machined rotors and if you do it right it will be equalivent to a new rotor and will work just as good.
You should measure and see if your rotors can be resurfaced it will save you $$$$. </TD></TR></TABLE> all the rotors are measured before and after cutting ... cheap rotors are better then cut rotors... this is what i ahve noticed after 3 years of working in shops...
Theres your problem if you buy the cheap rotors then yes they will warp faster and they are prob at if not near minimum thickness sometimes. If your saying that rotors warp faster due to machining rotors then you must be doing something wrong. I have machined rotors and if you do it right it will be equalivent to a new rotor and will work just as good.
You should measure and see if your rotors can be resurfaced it will save you $$$$. </TD></TR></TABLE> all the rotors are measured before and after cutting ... cheap rotors are better then cut rotors... this is what i ahve noticed after 3 years of working in shops...
05-17-2004, 08:28 AM
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Re: Brakes are shot? (Miracle Swap16)
I recently bought Brembo Blanks and EBC GreenStuff pads all the way around for my Del Sol Si. I am happy with them. If you remove the whole caliper (shouldn't have to if you dont have to replace the caliper) make sure to bleed your brakes good.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Miracle Swap16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just stick with stock breaks unless you are doing 130 mph at the end of the 1320 or your autocrossing or something dumb like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you are saying that racing on a track is dumb? Not a smart thing to say on a car forum that is dedicated to function over form.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Miracle Swap16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just stick with stock breaks unless you are doing 130 mph at the end of the 1320 or your autocrossing or something dumb like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you are saying that racing on a track is dumb? Not a smart thing to say on a car forum that is dedicated to function over form.
05-17-2004, 09:07 AM
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Re: Brakes are shot? (Miracle Swap16)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Miracle Swap16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...or your autocrossing or something dumb like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What's so dumb about autoxing, asshat?
to you, n00b.
What's so dumb about autoxing, asshat?
to you, n00b.
05-17-2004, 10:03 AM
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Re: Brakes are shot? (JRI94)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRI94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">brembo blanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what i was thinking .. saw em for a great price. I cant however resurface the bitches im running cross drilled's right now. If anyone can link me to a good place or even sell me some i might be interested. 
Thats what i was thinking .. saw em for a great price. I cant however resurface the bitches
im running cross drilled's right now. If anyone can link me to a good place or even sell me some i might be interested.
05-25-2004, 03:36 PM
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Re: (BatuKing)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BatuKing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Theres your problem if you buy the cheap rotors then yes they will warp faster and they are prob at if not near minimum thickness sometimes. If your saying that rotors warp faster due to machining rotors then you must be doing something wrong. I have machined rotors and if you do it right it will be equalivent to a new rotor and will work just as good.
You should measure and see if your rotors can be resurfaced it will save you $$$$. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree
Theres your problem if you buy the cheap rotors then yes they will warp faster and they are prob at if not near minimum thickness sometimes. If your saying that rotors warp faster due to machining rotors then you must be doing something wrong. I have machined rotors and if you do it right it will be equalivent to a new rotor and will work just as good.
You should measure and see if your rotors can be resurfaced it will save you $$$$. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree
05-25-2004, 03:37 PM
#16
Re: Brakes are shot? (JDCiv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDCiv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My rotors are lookin pretty shady and my pads are gonna be be down to metal soon. Dont really know what would be the best bang for my buck. 4 lug eg help it out thanks for feedback.
Modified by JDCiv at 11:41 PM 5/16/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
you cant tell if rotors are bad just by looking at them unless they have metal grooves in them. The runout on them cant be seen. You can see the runout once you machine them when your making the first couple of cuts. You should measure them with a micrometer and see if you can have them machined.
Modified by JDCiv at 11:41 PM 5/16/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
you cant tell if rotors are bad just by looking at them unless they have metal grooves in them. The runout on them cant be seen. You can see the runout once you machine them when your making the first couple of cuts. You should measure them with a micrometer and see if you can have them machined.
05-25-2004, 06:30 PM
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Re: (ekb18cCivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekb18cCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i have worked in shops for a few years.. i would personally NEVER machine rotors..</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess American Honda and all the dealerships are dumb. They recommend for us to cut (machine) rotors on cars that have vibration. We get a lot of newer cars that have warped rotors (usually customers fault) . Customers with new cars (less than 12 months & 12k miles) get their rotors cut for free.
I guess American Honda and all the dealerships are dumb. They recommend for us to cut (machine) rotors on cars that have vibration. We get a lot of newer cars that have warped rotors (usually customers fault) . Customers with new cars (less than 12 months & 12k miles) get their rotors cut for free.
05-25-2004, 06:33 PM
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Re: (BatuKing)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BatuKing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Theres your problem if you buy the cheap rotors then yes they will warp faster and they are prob at if not near minimum thickness sometimes. If your saying that rotors warp faster due to machining rotors then you must be doing something wrong. I have machined rotors and if you do it right it will be equalivent to a new rotor and will work just as good.
You should measure and see if your rotors can be resurfaced it will save you $$$$.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
100% correct
Theres your problem if you buy the cheap rotors then yes they will warp faster and they are prob at if not near minimum thickness sometimes. If your saying that rotors warp faster due to machining rotors then you must be doing something wrong. I have machined rotors and if you do it right it will be equalivent to a new rotor and will work just as good.
You should measure and see if your rotors can be resurfaced it will save you $$$$.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
100% correct
05-26-2004, 03:28 AM
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Re: Brakes are shot? (HUBB)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HUBB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** i need brakes too...drums are killin me and my fronts are worn to the metal 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think Brembo may make a drum now also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I think Brembo may make a drum now also.
05-26-2004, 08:29 AM
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Re: (ekb18cCivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekb18cCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i have worked in shops for a few years.. i would personally NEVER machine rotors.. they warp very quickly.. they rarely ever last the life of the pads.. spo then you gotta buy rotors and another set of pads.. just replace the rotors also.. you can get them from a parts store for like 20 bucks a pop... </TD></TR></TABLE>
It really depends on WHY you are machining the rotors. Personally, I wouldn't machine warped rotors. However I would machine a good set of rotors when changing brake pads to get a clean surface and establish a new transfer layer with the new pads.
It really depends on WHY you are machining the rotors. Personally, I wouldn't machine warped rotors. However I would machine a good set of rotors when changing brake pads to get a clean surface and establish a new transfer layer with the new pads.
05-26-2004, 10:07 AM
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Re: (kommon_sense)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kommon_sense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It really depends on WHY you are machining the rotors. Personally, I wouldn't machine warped rotors. However I would machine a good set of rotors when changing brake pads to get a clean surface and establish a new transfer layer with the new pads.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont know where you worked or whose cars you worked on, but the whole purpose of machining a rotor is to correct warping, runout, thickness diffrences. Drums can also be machined aka turning. Why would you machine a good set of rotors? that makes no sense. All you have to do is sand them down. Also make sure to sand down the mating surfaces so you get a flush contact so you cut them properly.
It really depends on WHY you are machining the rotors. Personally, I wouldn't machine warped rotors. However I would machine a good set of rotors when changing brake pads to get a clean surface and establish a new transfer layer with the new pads.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont know where you worked or whose cars you worked on, but the whole purpose of machining a rotor is to correct warping, runout, thickness diffrences. Drums can also be machined aka turning. Why would you machine a good set of rotors? that makes no sense. All you have to do is sand them down. Also make sure to sand down the mating surfaces so you get a flush contact so you cut them properly.
05-26-2004, 10:43 AM
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Re: (IVI)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i dont know where you worked or whose cars you worked on, but the whole purpose of machining a rotor is to correct warping, runout, thickness diffrences. Drums can also be machined aka turning. Why would you machine a good set of rotors? that makes no sense. All you have to do is sand them down. Also make sure to sand down the mating surfaces so you get a flush contact so you cut them properly.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree. Haven't had any problems with my rotors.
i dont know where you worked or whose cars you worked on, but the whole purpose of machining a rotor is to correct warping, runout, thickness diffrences. Drums can also be machined aka turning. Why would you machine a good set of rotors? that makes no sense. All you have to do is sand them down. Also make sure to sand down the mating surfaces so you get a flush contact so you cut them properly.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree. Haven't had any problems with my rotors.
05-26-2004, 10:55 AM
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Re: (IVI)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont know where you worked or whose cars you worked on, but the whole purpose of machining a rotor is to correct warping, runout, thickness diffrences. Drums can also be machined aka turning. Why would you machine a good set of rotors? that makes no sense. All you have to do is sand them down. Also make sure to sand down the mating surfaces so you get a flush contact so you cut them properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Call up any performance brake pad manufacturer and ask them... Not all brake pad compounds are compatible. If you are using brake pad A and switch to brake pad B, there will be remnants of brake pad A embedded in the rotor which can prevent you from properly bedding in brake pad B. Machining/turning the rotor removes those remnants and gives you a fresh rotor surface to work with thus allowing you to properly bed in brake pad B. If you don't believe me, then do as I said, call up a performance brake pad manufacturer or just go ask the folks in the roadracing/auto-x forum....
Call up any performance brake pad manufacturer and ask them... Not all brake pad compounds are compatible. If you are using brake pad A and switch to brake pad B, there will be remnants of brake pad A embedded in the rotor which can prevent you from properly bedding in brake pad B. Machining/turning the rotor removes those remnants and gives you a fresh rotor surface to work with thus allowing you to properly bed in brake pad B. If you don't believe me, then do as I said, call up a performance brake pad manufacturer or just go ask the folks in the roadracing/auto-x forum....