Brake problems and noises
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Brake problems and noises
Hello, I'm new to this forum. I drive a 1994 Civic EX Sedan and I got a few problems with it. Hoping someone could answer these ;\
First off is the brakes, I'm not totally sure what it is but I THINK its the ABS. The brake pedal pulsates at EVERY stop. Every stop sign, every traffic light and every time I brake, it pulsates and vibrates like crazy. What could be wrong? A few people told me it could be my brake pads and others say its my rotor. I recently just got my bearings changed for the driver side tire. The thing is, before I got the bearings changed, I've never had this problem. So what could be wrong? Did the mechanic do something to it? ALSO, I hear this ticking noise coming from the dash. Seems like its coming from the passenger side. The ticking is like a time bomb ticking really fast. It goes off every time I go over a bump and every time I brake as well. And yes, the brake problem and the ticking showed up right after I got the car back from the mechanic. I asked him what was wrong and he said it should go away within a week but I don't believe him, What could be wrong with it?
Also, I just started to hear this in the passenger side rear tire, its like a rubbing noise, not a metal on metal noise. More like.. Zink Zink Zink, I don't know how else to explain it but its really loud. You can hear it with the windows down. When I step on the brakes the noise goes away. When I let go of the brakes it comes back.
Its louder when I am going slow and it gets faint as I get faster. Is it the bearings as well?
First off is the brakes, I'm not totally sure what it is but I THINK its the ABS. The brake pedal pulsates at EVERY stop. Every stop sign, every traffic light and every time I brake, it pulsates and vibrates like crazy. What could be wrong? A few people told me it could be my brake pads and others say its my rotor. I recently just got my bearings changed for the driver side tire. The thing is, before I got the bearings changed, I've never had this problem. So what could be wrong? Did the mechanic do something to it? ALSO, I hear this ticking noise coming from the dash. Seems like its coming from the passenger side. The ticking is like a time bomb ticking really fast. It goes off every time I go over a bump and every time I brake as well. And yes, the brake problem and the ticking showed up right after I got the car back from the mechanic. I asked him what was wrong and he said it should go away within a week but I don't believe him, What could be wrong with it?
Also, I just started to hear this in the passenger side rear tire, its like a rubbing noise, not a metal on metal noise. More like.. Zink Zink Zink, I don't know how else to explain it but its really loud. You can hear it with the windows down. When I step on the brakes the noise goes away. When I let go of the brakes it comes back.
Its louder when I am going slow and it gets faint as I get faster. Is it the bearings as well?
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Re: Brake problems and noises (inxekure)
the sedan has abs????
i have a 95 coup and it don't...
but regardless it's your rotors that are the problem
might as well change out the pads while your at it
and yes you could turn them but that still might not solve your problem in the long run
hot spots can return the first time you heat cycle the rotors
now it won't be as bad right away but considering the price for new rotors you should just replace them.
brake job 101
remove caliper and caliper bracket
remove old rotor via the two impact screws
use a hose pinch tool to clamp off the brake line
don't use vice grips or anything else other than a function specific tool
because you can damage the line
hose pinch off tool---> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_1...Tools
open the bleeder valve and use a disc brake pad spreader to compress the piston
don't substitute c clamps channel locks or anything else for this
this will insure that the piston will not bind due to being cocked from using an improper tool.
disc brake pad separator--->
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_1...Tools
you don't want to just compress the piston with out the use of a pinch off tool
you want all that old fluid out of the system via the bleeder valve
not pushed back up into the system along with any corrosion/crud that has collected in the caliper.
esp if it has abs
the sensors and valves used in abs systems are very small and are easily clogged
if your uncomfortable doing this yourself pay someone to do it
you might think it would suck for your car not to start
but think how bad it would suck for it to not stop
and for the record yes I'm a mechanic
and yes I'm ASE brake certified
hope this helps
i have a 95 coup and it don't...
but regardless it's your rotors that are the problem
might as well change out the pads while your at it
and yes you could turn them but that still might not solve your problem in the long run
hot spots can return the first time you heat cycle the rotors
now it won't be as bad right away but considering the price for new rotors you should just replace them.
brake job 101
remove caliper and caliper bracket
remove old rotor via the two impact screws
use a hose pinch tool to clamp off the brake line
don't use vice grips or anything else other than a function specific tool
because you can damage the line
hose pinch off tool---> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_1...Tools
open the bleeder valve and use a disc brake pad spreader to compress the piston
don't substitute c clamps channel locks or anything else for this
this will insure that the piston will not bind due to being cocked from using an improper tool.
disc brake pad separator--->
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_1...Tools
you don't want to just compress the piston with out the use of a pinch off tool
you want all that old fluid out of the system via the bleeder valve
not pushed back up into the system along with any corrosion/crud that has collected in the caliper.
esp if it has abs
the sensors and valves used in abs systems are very small and are easily clogged
if your uncomfortable doing this yourself pay someone to do it
you might think it would suck for your car not to start
but think how bad it would suck for it to not stop
and for the record yes I'm a mechanic
and yes I'm ASE brake certified
hope this helps
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