KKRIS

This bolt holds the LCA to the trailing arm. I tried to drill a hole in it after I used a center-punch but I made the drillbit dull by drilling fast! The next day, I found out that I needed to go slow while drilling.

The bolt basically broke like this drawing I did. Only one metal area(?) is being supported by the bolt. I had a friend push my car downwards repeatedly and the one that isn't supported by the bolt is flexing down and up.



My question is, is it safe to drive? I need to get to school!

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Seriously?you think it would be safe to drive like that?

KKRIS

Oh, not at all!!! D; I'm freakin scared to drive it, man!!!

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Well then why was that your question? Drill it out and replace the bolt

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

See that black part? You have to cut that part off. Then get a proper sized nut to use on the new bolt. Ask me how I know.

Or cut the bolt on the other side of the trailing arm so you can remove it. That's where mine broke. That still leaves you with the end of the bolt that you PRAY isn't seized up in that welded nut.

LSVTAK_EK

Dude, school is important but, not that important! Don't drive it!!!!!
The time it took you to make that cool drawing of the issue you could have drilled it out and slapped another bolt in.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

On what planet? Took me a couple of hours on my back and a couple of good drill bits because the stupid Home Depot had no cutting oil.

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

X2 pretty time consuming for what your doing

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Worse when it's raining!!!

KKRIS

Thanks for some of the ideas! I'll see what my buddy can do

D16SiHatch

i didn't want to deal with it and let mine go for a few months. it WILL go out eventually -_-

If i had fixed it before i could have atleast saved a tire and the scary experience, no doubt with the amount of rust i would had to replace the lca anyway.

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

why would you do that?

D16SiHatch

nobody's perfect, definitely a mistake i will never make again.

KKRIS

I have the same coilovers. I bought their LCA too and wanted to replace mine, but because of this bolt I can't put my LCA on... and..... The bushing on the LCA is too wide for the shocks fork(?) how does happen? Lol it's the same brand too...


Or maybe I'm missing a step here...

D16SiHatch

well that's interesting... not sure how you would go about resolving that lol

jbpnoman

You resolve that by calling them and telling them they sent you the wrong ****.

Civic2Fast

I spent 80 dollars in drill bits and a drill doctor when I snapped one of mine.... I ended up throwing in the towl and bought a new lca and strut assemply lol

Civic2Fast

looks like an ef lca and an eg/ek strut.. some say everything is interchangeable between 88-00 but that's only if your swapping a full assembly from one car to another... strut fork and lca widths are different

jbpnoman

There's no reason to spend that much money. Undo the other bolts, take the assembly out, bring it to your local machine shop, and have them drill the bolt out for you.

Civic2Fast

I had done that too... the machine shop toasted my bushing... that was my excuse for buying new LCA's :-)

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

I've spent HOURS drilling these out, that **** is no fun at all. A Drill Dr is almost a necessity for this job.

Sometimes you do have to drill them out to get the car back on the road, but Honda does sell the rear LCA
with bushings installed for about $65 (Majestic Honda)

94EG8

That's a '96 - '00 Shock, the control arm looks bushing is for a '92 - '95 or Integra. Besides not fitting the shock fork it should also be the wrong length for the car.

KKRIS

I got an email saying there were a batch of EK LCA with the wrong bushing and I got one of them. I'll get a shipping label and ship it back and get a correct set.


(long story short, my buddy Zach got it out with a drill lol)
Back to the broken bolt. Zach tried different things to get it out. He first grinded down the pointy end of the stud flat and welded a nut to it, but the bolt would just brake off. He grinded the welded nut that's attach to the trailing arm and was able to pull the LCA off loose. He tried hammering it out with a sledge hammer and then the back of an axe for more power! It wouldn't move anywhere and then he grinded 2 sides of the stud flat so he could put pliers on it and tried twisting it, but the bushing would twist with it. HE then torch it and hammer and torch it and hammer. Zach managed to get it out with hours of drilling

zach53

yea uhhh not a good idea 2 drive on that lol.......kinda important to have that bolted in bro......ur learning tho......HONDA-TECH jus stopped a potental crash lol good job

jbpnoman

Right there with you. New bushing - nonexistant. New OEM LCA - $350. New pair of "performance" LCAs - $100 shipped.