better braking force
#1
Thread Starter
better braking force
I was driving a few other cars today, and they're relatively new. I noticed that the other car's brakes are much more responsive. Like when i touch the brakes, the car brakes instantly, where-as half of my pedal doesnt do anything till i feel pressure till it start to slow the car down. How do i get rid of all this slack without changing out the whole brake system?
#5
Re: (nd8ch)
my mom's newer accord is like that compared to my EF I have right now... Someone told me there is a screw above your brake pedal that adjusts where your brake pedal begins to stop... I dunno, maybe it gradually moves over time?
anyone have some other ideas?
anyone have some other ideas?
#6
Re: (Steve90HB)
you can adjust the booster but I don't think you're supposed to... Once it's set (from the factory) I don't think it should change...
It's easy to adjust though... 17mm just use a open end wrench and turn it... Not sure which way does what but it'll be obvious...
When the car is off and you pump up the brakes does the pedal sit high or low?
if it's high then the booster adjustment isn't your problem... I'd make sure the master is full and I'd flush the fluid out for new stuff... I'd also check all the rubber lines to make sure they're in decent shape...
If it's low then you may want to adjust the booster but I think it's a sign of a problem... I don't think it'll fix anything but the symptoms and possibly wear the part more/faster...
As mentioned SS lines will stiffen/raise up the pedal... but I'd give everything a good look/service first....
It's easy to adjust though... 17mm just use a open end wrench and turn it... Not sure which way does what but it'll be obvious...
When the car is off and you pump up the brakes does the pedal sit high or low?
if it's high then the booster adjustment isn't your problem... I'd make sure the master is full and I'd flush the fluid out for new stuff... I'd also check all the rubber lines to make sure they're in decent shape...
If it's low then you may want to adjust the booster but I think it's a sign of a problem... I don't think it'll fix anything but the symptoms and possibly wear the part more/faster...
As mentioned SS lines will stiffen/raise up the pedal... but I'd give everything a good look/service first....
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#8
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Re: better braking force (nd8ch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nd8ch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was driving a few other cars today, and they're relatively new. I noticed that the other car's brakes are much more responsive. Like when i touch the brakes, the car brakes instantly, where-as half of my pedal doesnt do anything till i feel pressure till it start to slow the car down. How do i get rid of all this slack without changing out the whole brake system?</TD></TR></TABLE>
this happens to all cars with drum brakes. i bet you have drum rears. its normal and cant do much.
if you have too much "slack" adjust your drums and it'll take away some but not all. all the things
mentioned above wont do **** if you have drum brakes in the back.
this happens to all cars with drum brakes. i bet you have drum rears. its normal and cant do much.
if you have too much "slack" adjust your drums and it'll take away some but not all. all the things
mentioned above wont do **** if you have drum brakes in the back.
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Re: better braking force (Mr. Choi)
brand new pads, rotors, drums and shoes will put the stiff pedal feel back to the top of the pedal travel... as long as the fluid is free from air bubbles too.
#10
Re: better braking force (Mr. Choi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Choi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
this happens to all cars with drum brakes. i bet you have drum rears. its normal and cant do much.
if you have too much "slack" adjust your drums and it'll take away some but not all. all the things
mentioned above wont do **** if you have drum brakes in the back.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh yeah... sorry I'm a retard... i swapped out my drums and blocked out all memories of them...
ALL you have to do is adjust the rears... it'll bring the pedal up and make it nice and solid for at least a week... YEAH DRUMS... no seriously though... I'd inspect the rears and see if you can adjust them... it's really easy... although not as easy as it could be... some cars adjust the rears by driving in reverse and yanking up the e-brake... it's SOO easy...
Your you have to pull the wheels then drums then there is an adjuster screw... you use a flathead screw driver to leverage small turns out of it... then you put the drum back on and try to spin it (obviously have the car jacked up with the ebrake off)... you want it to be hard to spin... like not get a full rotation out of the drum... then put the wheel back on and do the other side...
It should solve your problem but not for long... If you want a consistant pedal you need to have rear disks...
this happens to all cars with drum brakes. i bet you have drum rears. its normal and cant do much.
if you have too much "slack" adjust your drums and it'll take away some but not all. all the things
mentioned above wont do **** if you have drum brakes in the back.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh yeah... sorry I'm a retard... i swapped out my drums and blocked out all memories of them...
ALL you have to do is adjust the rears... it'll bring the pedal up and make it nice and solid for at least a week... YEAH DRUMS... no seriously though... I'd inspect the rears and see if you can adjust them... it's really easy... although not as easy as it could be... some cars adjust the rears by driving in reverse and yanking up the e-brake... it's SOO easy...
Your you have to pull the wheels then drums then there is an adjuster screw... you use a flathead screw driver to leverage small turns out of it... then you put the drum back on and try to spin it (obviously have the car jacked up with the ebrake off)... you want it to be hard to spin... like not get a full rotation out of the drum... then put the wheel back on and do the other side...
It should solve your problem but not for long... If you want a consistant pedal you need to have rear disks...
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Re: better braking force (NonovUrbizniz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh yeah... sorry I'm a retard... i swapped out my drums and blocked out all memories of them...
ALL you have to do is adjust the rears... it'll bring the pedal up and make it nice and solid for at least a week... YEAH DRUMS... no seriously though... I'd inspect the rears and see if you can adjust them... it's really easy... although not as easy as it could be... some cars adjust the rears by driving in reverse and yanking up the e-brake... it's SOO easy...
Your you have to pull the wheels then drums then there is an adjuster screw... you use a flathead screw driver to leverage small turns out of it... then you put the drum back on and try to spin it (obviously have the car jacked up with the ebrake off)... you want it to be hard to spin... like not get a full rotation out of the drum... then put the wheel back on and do the other side...
It should solve your problem but not for long... If you want a consistant pedal you need to have rear disks...</TD></TR></TABLE>
pulling on the ebrake while reversing isnt as effective as getting down on your *** and doing it the right way.
sure its a bit work but much more effective on removing some of that slack on the drums.
you should adjust the dums so it drags a little. not too hard, jus enough so it'll drag and wont spin
freely like the front wheels. enough force to stop the momentium of the wheels.
Oh yeah... sorry I'm a retard... i swapped out my drums and blocked out all memories of them...
ALL you have to do is adjust the rears... it'll bring the pedal up and make it nice and solid for at least a week... YEAH DRUMS... no seriously though... I'd inspect the rears and see if you can adjust them... it's really easy... although not as easy as it could be... some cars adjust the rears by driving in reverse and yanking up the e-brake... it's SOO easy...
Your you have to pull the wheels then drums then there is an adjuster screw... you use a flathead screw driver to leverage small turns out of it... then you put the drum back on and try to spin it (obviously have the car jacked up with the ebrake off)... you want it to be hard to spin... like not get a full rotation out of the drum... then put the wheel back on and do the other side...
It should solve your problem but not for long... If you want a consistant pedal you need to have rear disks...</TD></TR></TABLE>
pulling on the ebrake while reversing isnt as effective as getting down on your *** and doing it the right way.
sure its a bit work but much more effective on removing some of that slack on the drums.
you should adjust the dums so it drags a little. not too hard, jus enough so it'll drag and wont spin
freely like the front wheels. enough force to stop the momentium of the wheels.
#12
Re: better braking force (Mr. Choi)
It doesn't do much if anything on our cars..
I was mentioning it because some cars are designed to be adjusted like that... there is NO adjuster screw internal... they are adjusted solely by reversing then yanking the ebrake till it's stiff...
doing so on a car not designed to be adjusted like that is pointless.
I was just groaning that our cars weren't made like that... not suggesting that he do it like that.
I was mentioning it because some cars are designed to be adjusted like that... there is NO adjuster screw internal... they are adjusted solely by reversing then yanking the ebrake till it's stiff...
doing so on a car not designed to be adjusted like that is pointless.
I was just groaning that our cars weren't made like that... not suggesting that he do it like that.
#13
Thread Starter
Re: better braking force (NonovUrbizniz)
i have rear disc brakes, but thanks anyways.
I checked the brakes today with the engine off...and pumped a few times. the pedal sits really high and firm...so im guessing its just how honda designed our brakes?
oh yeah, and the fluid level is normal..and lines look great
I checked the brakes today with the engine off...and pumped a few times. the pedal sits really high and firm...so im guessing its just how honda designed our brakes?
oh yeah, and the fluid level is normal..and lines look great
#14
Re: better braking force (nd8ch)
could be a master or booster issue...
does the pedal ever get really hard or really soft... more so than normal?
The pedal does sit kind a low and you can have the brakes engaged with out them putting out too much braking force...
The SS brakelines will raise that pedal for you if that's what you're looking for.
does the pedal ever get really hard or really soft... more so than normal?
The pedal does sit kind a low and you can have the brakes engaged with out them putting out too much braking force...
The SS brakelines will raise that pedal for you if that's what you're looking for.
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Re: (JMU1337)
Definitely adjust the booster last. If you do it too much the piston in the booster will crack the wall in the MC. I would do what everybody else said and get SS lines first.
#20
Re: (nd8ch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nd8ch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i decide to go with SS lines, im gonna replace the fuild in there now...what are some good brake fluids?</TD></TR></TABLE>
here's some links discussing brake fluid... if you search there are more..
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=554567
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=514163
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=466324
motul
ate
castrol
valvoline syn.
here's some links discussing brake fluid... if you search there are more..
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=554567
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=514163
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=466324
motul
ate
castrol
valvoline syn.
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