00_EM1_Si

I currently run some Tein S tech springs and its time to upgrade. I don't want to spend more than $1200 and I dont know what would be the best choice. I just ordered Blox Rear LCAs and Blox camber kit to go with this new coilover setup. Stance is somewhat important but if I can go atleast 2 inches lower than stock, that is fine. Handling and drag is the purpose.
Any input is helpful

D Griff

Well I recommend starting be sending your Blox stuff back. I have the LCAs and they're trash. You probably won't really need a camber kit.

Most people will stand by the Ground Control/Koni yellows set up. My konis weren't the most reliable, we'll see how they honor their warranty.

00_EM1_Si

Really? What LCAs would you recommend? Thanks

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Function 7s.

D Griff

OEM. I've heard function 7 are awesome but they're pricey. The Blox bushings wear in like a month. OEM ones last years and don't cost a ton of cash, they just don't look the coolest.

jdmhondas4life

DONT GET SKUNK2 !!!!! if its a daily driver i have the pro s coil-overs and their bumpy as ****!!!

98civdx

If you are dead set on using the blox LCA's, then order ES LCA bushings and replace them. They will need to be trimmed to fit, not a direct replacement.

Lose the blox camber kit. I have heard storys of them slipping out of alignment. (camber changes), as well as the bushings suck too.

As far as qaulity goes, OEM or Funtion7, period.

I take it the car is a SI?

Libertariat

if you have $1200 you have plenty of money for Koni/GC with 350F/550R rates for drag racing. You'll have $500 left over for function7 LCAs. That's enough to have like $250 to play with still.

Send your camber kit back too.

98civdx

Don't forget the alignment! Plan on about 80-90 bucks. Depending on your taxes/how much the shop wants.

lil_cook97

Just wondering, how did that go? did Koni warranty their shocks?

civexspeedy

That can potentially be a dangerous spring rate setup for a street driven car. I wouldn't recommened that esp if we don't know if the car has a rear swaybar. Granted that would be an ideal drag type spring rate setup, those rates will induce quite a bit of oversteer, possibly snap oversteer, on the streets which is NOT safe.

350/450 would likely be a better and safer bet. But again, we need more info.

OP: what kind of ride are you looking for? Is this car a purpose built track car or daily driver? I'm sure you'll get a ton of companies thrown at you by people but that info only goes so far...

00_EM1_Si

This is a daily driver but I plan on taking it to the track and circuit on weekends. I dont plan on it being an all out race car, just a serious street car. I dont have a rear sway bar but if its a must have for a good setup then why not? lol thanks for the input so far. Overall it is a daily driver and I dont plan on more than 400 whp
I guess I'll stick with the stock LCAs, but I do want a camber kit and alignment with the coilover setup. How is omnipower?

00_EM1_Si

Wow thats scary.. seems that function7 is the best bet? Yea its an Si

Deetz

By your user name, i would assume you have an EM1? If so, you do have a rear swap bar, but it can benefit greatly with a bigger one, say from an ITR along with a good subframe brace like a Function7

The oem rear LCA are great, no reason to buy an iffy after market brand. As far as caber kits go, the better companies in my head are Ingalls, progress and Hotchkis

civexspeedy

Since it's a daily driver, how important is ride comfort?

The Koni Yellow Sports can handle springs up to, and not recommended past, 600 lbs/in. Anything above ~400-450 lbs/in and ride comfort really starts to become a bit of an issue(though of course this is somewhat subjective).

Rear swaybar isn't necessarily a must, but depending on setup it can help. You can also use one to induce a bit of oversteer without going high on the rear spring rate. This will keep the ride comfort on the streets a bit better while still getting what you want out of the handling on the track.

GSaura

I don't know why everybody always talks smack on sk2 and blox bushings. I have oem LCA's, skunk2 LCA's, and blox LCA's on my different cars and all of the bushings are fine after tons of track and street use. As long as you load the bushings before torquing the bolts and torque the bolts to the appropriate spec, they last for a long time. If you already bought the blox, use them. Just make sure that you load the suspension before tightening the bolts.

I've used Ingalls rear camber kits and skunk2 rear camber kits. One of the skunk2 pieces bent when I went of track because the bolt going in the shaft is kind of a small diameter. The Ingalls piece is way beefier and just as adjustable (although not as shiny).

As far as suspension for less than 1200, PIC, koni/GC, tein all will work. As far as snap oversteer goes... I've never experienced oversteer in my cars. I drive my integra with 12kF/14kR spring rates and a big ASR rear bar 300 miles at a time to get to track events and have never, ever, ever had "snap oversteer" although due to the spring preload, I've gotten airborne a couple of times... which blows.

spoon.ek9

my current setup is bc racing br type coilovers, skunk2 lca's and an asr 24mm rear sway bar w/ brace. this is nearly $2000 though, but if your budget is $1200 for just coilovers, i would recommend giving the bc racing ones a look. i do agree though, function7 is the cream of the crop for lca's.

98civdx

The amount of negative things that have been said about blox parts proves they are junk..

Yes, it is true some people have had good results with them, and haven't had any issues. However a LARGE portion of them failed, and failed rather quickly.

Blox is crap. Yes I do have personal experience with blox parts. I am speaking from personal experience when I say it's junk.

Skunk2 has some new bushings out, that are supposed to be much better than the last ones. I haven't heard anything about them though. I do have personal experience with skunk2 parts as well.

OP----
Are you still running the factory sway bars?

Si's have a rather large front sway bar, 26mm and a pretty small rear bar at 13mm.( I do run these bars in my car)

So going with a higher spring rate in rear wont affect him nearly as much due to the giant front bar.

450f 380/400r. If you do this, or something similar you would be able to switch the springs front/rear, to try and get what you want.

If your looking to go a little bigger out back a 22mm would be great. Should be a nutural feeling with both bars.

Function7 is the best aftermarket LCA, no questions asked. OEM is in second place to that. You could even replace the bushings in the OE arms with poly/rubber if youd like.

Is there a reason why you want camber kits? Just asking.

Also, you say you have S-techs, whats the reason for wanting to change? Not low enough, not stiff enough?
And also, are you looking for just coilovers? Are or you interested in lowering springs as well?

Sorry for the million questions, but it will make it easier to help point you in the right direction.

00_EM1_Si

Yea I am still running the factory sway bars and I wanted camber kits because I assume the camber will be going negative when I put the coilovers in and I want it to sit at 0. The S tech springs are great but I want stiffer and less body roll when taking turns. I really just want adjustable coilovers to be able to go low if I decide to. How are the Tein super street dampers? Thanks

Libertariat

With $1200 you need to get koni/GC.

Tein is great, but at a low cost/performance ratio. Not a "bang for the buck" if you ask most people.

A lot of suspension gurus will tell you there are only a few options at budget ranges:

Progress CS-II ~$600
Koni/GC ~$800
AMR ~$1200

Otherwise you can rebuild your konis for a price in between koni and AMR.

Really doesn't get much wider in choice there. A LARGE portion of autocrossers use koni shocks. Lifetime warranty and tried and true product is just plain hard to beat.

civexspeedy

People talk smack about Blox products because of numerous bad experiences. I talk smack about them from bad personal experience using them. I had them on my car for maybe a year at most. Daily driven and weekend AutoXer. I'm very meticulous about setting the right tq to every single bolt I touch, this was no different. I set the tq with the car on the ground. I was driving around one day and noticed a strange noise. Pulled over and noticed instantly the back of my car was sitting a bit lower than normal. I found this...






BOTH arms had messed up bushings. Picked up a set of Function7 LCA's and I've had them on my car for atleast 3 years now, with stiffer springs, and no signs of problems.

Why in the world would I recommened an aftermarket part with bushings that can't last even a 1/4 as long as my stock ~12 year old bushings which were still in excellent shape when I replaced them? LOL no way... Judging by the other products Blox sells, they definitely aren't top notch..

Your 12k/14k numbers are equivalent to ~670/780 lbs/in. Tied in with even a fairly large rear swaybar on an Integra, you probably wont experience much snap oversteer. Afterall you're only running about 100 lbs/in stiffer in the rear which isn't bad. I'm running 650/800 with 22mm rear bar(not far from what's on your car) on my coupe that I AutoX and it doesn't have snap oversteer but is does have a good bit of rotation. However, running 200 lbs/in more in the rear than the front with even a stock 13mm rear swaybar will enduce much more oversteer. Even more so than our cars with stiffer springs because the softer rates will allow for greater body roll during transitions. A quick transition in rain or even a steady state turn on the streets can be dangerous. ie: dodging a car on the highway quickly to avoid an accident. Or taking an exit ramp too fast then doing a heavy throttle lift or braking will throw that back end out real fast(snap oversteer).

eg7

PIC select or tein flex.

98civdx

Ok. While camber isn't a bad thing, and can actaully help you, I wont turn this thread into a argument about camber.

My reccomendation is to keep the factory UCA's, unless the camber goes crazy. Meaning -3*+. I got perfect tire wear with around that number, but it is your car, do as you please.

The Tein coil overs are good, but you really can't beat koni/gc for the price. Lifetime warranty on everything, Tein doesn't have that.

I would do, Koni/gc, and hard rubber bushings. I reccomend PIC. They are about $240 for the hole car. And you "may" be able to swap the bushings in the blox camber kit for them.
I am not saying it will work, but its worth a shot.

That brings you to approx $1049

EDIT- I forgot to add, don't forget about tires! All this is a waste with crappy tires.

00_EM1_Si

This is a wide variety lol, ok assuming I have all the money in the world, what Camber Kit and coilover kit is idle with the function7 LCA? I have the money I just assumed 2000 on coilovers is crazy but F it. Buddy club?
Thanks for all the input I just am a noob to the suspension setup since Ive been sitting on these s tech springs for years

Texas4door

I picked up a set of Eibach Sportline Springs with some Monroe Shocks at O'Reiley's for under $500
Still going strong two years later
(though my old Rear Trailing Arm bushings need to be replaced [13 yrs old] )
Pretty bumpy ride on rough roads but VERY smooth on highways
^^