ri_rv

I'm going to be putting a JDM B18c in my EG pretty soon. I want to know what things I would need. Any information about the conversion would greatly be appreciated.

EVIL Hx Coupe

To start you need a USDM ECU for the motor.

Then add whatever sensors and emission stuff the JDM doesnt have.. I dont know exactly what since I dont own an EG.

Jedi_Sol

Youll need:

-USDM gsr ecu (xxx-p72-a01).
-Evap purge control solenoid valve with the connector to the ecu.
-a Cat converter (duh)
-USDM gsr exhaust manifold or any CARB exempt header.
-USDM intake or any CARB exempt intake.
-make sure you keep the paperwork that came with the motor (ie: receipt of sales showing the serial number of the engine because some Ref's will check for this. If you are buying this off of a friend, just have him write a receipt for you).
-make sure you have all of your vacuum lines hooked up the same as a USDM gsr.
-make sure the engine is the same year or newer of your car.
-make sure youre not throwing any CEL codes.

If i am missing anything else, please add on to this. I am in the process of BARing my jdm b18c, failed but im still trying.

James

dohcVTECeg2

i think thats about right

egg_baLLa

also make sure to do routine maintenace such as replacing the spark plugs, ignition wires, and oil. i passed mine not too long ago.

oh and also b18c don't come with an oil pressure switch. it's the little green plug that sticks out of the vtec solenoid. ur gonna have to get the oil pressure switch housing and replace it with the one on the b18c.

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egg_baLLa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also make sure to do routine maintenace such as replacing the spark plugs, ignition wires, and oil. i passed mine not too long ago.

oh and also b18c don't come with an oil pressure switch. it's the little green plug that sticks out of the vtec solenoid. ur gonna have to get the oil pressure switch housing and replace it with the one on the b18c.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Huh? There is an oil pressure sending unit on the back of the block. I am not sure what "oil pressure switch" you are talking about.

Suck my DX

why do u need a usdm ecu for a jdm motor??

ri_rv

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jedi_Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Youll need:

-USDM gsr ecu (xxx-p72-a01).
-Evap purge control solenoid valve with the connector to the ecu.
-a Cat converter (duh)
-USDM gsr exhaust manifold or any CARB exempt header.
-USDM intake or any CARB exempt intake.
-make sure you keep the paperwork that came with the motor (ie: receipt of sales showing the serial number of the engine because some Ref's will check for this. If you are buying this off of a friend, just have him write a receipt for you).
-make sure you have all of your vacuum lines hooked up the same as a USDM gsr.
-make sure the engine is the same year or newer of your car.
-make sure youre not throwing any CEL codes.

If i am missing anything else, please add on to this. I am in the process of BARing my jdm b18c, failed but im still trying.

James</TD></TR></TABLE>


May I ask why yours failed.

Luserkid

Jedi hit that **** right on. Thats all the conversion stuff you need to do. After you get all that do all the basic stuff that you would normally do for a smog test, also drive the car hard for an hour before you get there and leave the car running while you wait so the cat is nice and hot (thats the reason why i failed, the car was off for a hour before i was tested) 2nd time around passed

Jedi_Sol

I failed because of many stupid little reasons:

*Ref could not ID my computer because the sticker with the xxx-p72-a01 was missing.

*Threw a CEL 43 that i forgot to clear before the test.

*My evap purge control solenoid valve was broken, ref said i had to get a new one. Plus the connector for that solenoid was missing. I eventually found it plugged into my IAB's. So i disconnected it from the IAB's and plugged it into the evap purge. So right now i am running with no IAB's. But once i pass the test, i will re-hook it back up to the IAB's.

*My PVC breather hose wasn't clamped down tight.

*My timing was off by one. (I had 19 BTDC, but the range is 14-18 BTDC).

*I FAILED all of the 15mph tests. This was probably cuz the cat cooled down. The ref turned off my car and it took him 30min to finish the visual inspection, so my cat probably cooled down a lot by then. Plus it was really overcast that day.

BTW, i took my test at Goldenwest College.

Yo Luserkid, u sure you passed with no Evap purge?? that was the first thing the ref noticed was missing.

James

Luserkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jedi_Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yo Luserkid, u sure you passed with no Evap purge?? that was the first thing the ref noticed was missing.

James</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im atleast 98% sure, because i dont have it where it would normally be (on the intake manifold above the throttle body) Unless if for so long i was completely wrong and looking at the wrong thing. Also my motor is 94.

Jedi_Sol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im atleast 98% sure, because i dont have it where it would normally be (on the intake manifold above the throttle body) Unless if for so long i was completely wrong and looking at the wrong thing. Also my motor is 94. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a 94 motor as well. Here's a little refresher, haha:

Check the vacuum hose conncection leading from the charcoal canister.

Luserkid

Yup i thought that was the part, i dont have it. Maybe its just hanging somewhere and i never seen it (i didnt do my own swap when i first had it) ill look tomorrow by following the canister line.

ri_rv

Thanks guys. The information provided was really helpful.

egg_baLLa

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Huh? There is an oil pressure sending unit on the back of the block. I am not sure what "oil pressure switch" you are talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

uh, u know that green plug that sticks out of the vtec solenoid...
im pretty sure thats an oil pressure switch?

CivicESi

sureley you dont need the pressure switch for BAR/CARB, if not just short it like most swaps A4 to D6 on OBD1 IIRC not sure about the P72 though, no cels and no switch required

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egg_baLLa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

uh, u know that green plug that sticks out of the vtec solenoid...
im pretty sure thats an oil pressure switch?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its the Vtec pressure switch is the proper name for it. Is not an oil pressure switch in the sense that you made it sound like. Different function.

dantastic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicESi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sureley you dont need the pressure switch for BAR/CARB, if not just short it like most swaps A4 to D6 on OBD1 IIRC not sure about the P72 though, no cels and no switch required</TD></TR></TABLE>

good point. although the USDM ecu will look for it, you can bypass it. the ref won't look for the oil pressure switch since it's not technically emissions related

ri_rv

do you guys think i can get away with doing some internal modifications? for example, if i put in cams, pistons, or get a pnp job.. what is the limit? nothing too extreme though, all OEM parts.

thirty3

there's load of hassels for using a jdm motor

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ri_rv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you guys think i can get away with doing some internal modifications? for example, if i put in cams, pistons, or get a pnp job.. what is the limit? nothing too extreme though, all OEM parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Easily. Without a doubt. I reffed my B17 with PR3 pistons and stage 1 cams in it, no problem. I plan to ref the B18C1 I have now with M22's and USDM ITR pistons. I even did my own headwork as well. The headwork (Pnp) will increase emissions, but not a whole lot. If you are already on the edge of the limits though, you might want to skip it.

Technically its illegal to ref the engine with anything other then the parts it originally came with UNLESS they are carb approved. I don't know what they would have to say about changing pistons with OEM counterparts. I know for sure they won't approve my M22's.

ri_rv

ttt

TallAssFilipino

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jedi_Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Youll need:

-USDM gsr ecu (xxx-p72-a01).
-Evap purge control solenoid valve with the connector to the ecu.
-a Cat converter (duh)
-USDM gsr exhaust manifold or any CARB exempt header.
-USDM intake or any CARB exempt intake.
-make sure you keep the paperwork that came with the motor (ie: receipt of sales showing the serial number of the engine because some Ref's will check for this. If you are buying this off of a friend, just have him write a receipt for you).
-make sure you have all of your vacuum lines hooked up the same as a USDM gsr.
-make sure the engine is the same year or newer of your car.
-make sure youre not throwing any CEL codes.

If i am missing anything else, please add on to this. I am in the process of BARing my jdm b18c, failed but im still trying.

James</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you can keep the original intake manifold that came equipped with the JDM engine?

SD1222

do u guys think paying $800 for a shop to swap the motor in and their gonna make it so that the motor will pass smog is too much or well worth it?

Quiks66

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_spoonEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do u guys think paying $800 for a shop to swap the motor in and their gonna make it so that the motor will pass smog is too much or well worth it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's not all that bad if they are going to include making the motor pass SMOG. There are so many little things like vacuum lines, sensors, etc that need to be hooked up correctly. It's probably not worth the headache for you to search for the little parts yourself if they are going to include it in the cost. I say go for it.