racin_fool

Alright, since its been hotter lately, I have noticed the car starting to backfire and stutter ALOT, but only after ther car has fully warmed up. I can even feel it when just cruising down the freeway. I have checked the normal stuff like timing, spark plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor. When it does start doing this, it only does it on accelleration and decelleration. It will not do it at idle.

Anyone have any ideas? I just want this fixed already..

Russ713

iTrader: (1)

Could be the ignitor if you've definitely made sure the plug wires are not shorting out somewhere or if there's no water sitting in the spark plug holes.


Double check things like plug wires, rotor button, and timing since they are cheap replacements. Next I would check the ignitor and ecu.

racin_fool

I wouldnt think it was the distributor cap or rotor since those are both less than 8,000 miles old. The NGK plug wires are about maybe 10,000 miles old. I know for a fact there is no water sitting in the spark plug holes since I only had the engine reassembled myself about 400-500 miles ago.

Could running some weird race spark plugs prematurely kill out the ignitor? Just curious since that was what was in the engine when I first bought it from my little brother..

racin_fool

well I am going to check the adjust the valve clearances today after work and see what else I might be able to play with while I'm in there. I might go ahead and retard the timing a few degrees as well and see if that might also help.

Well, Anyone have any further ideas?

tico

actuall my homeboy had the same problem. what he did was lower his fuel pressure to 32lbs andnow it dosent pop or backfire unless he really gets on it

racin_fool

Well there is a possibility that this AEM fpr is giving up the ghost when it gets hot, but I think there is something more than that. I'll check the fuel pressure tonight.. anyone remember what the stock pressure is supposed to be for a 95+ gsr engine?

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tico &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actuall my homeboy had the same problem. what he did was lower his fuel pressure to 32lbs andnow it dosent pop or backfire unless he really gets on it</TD></TR></TABLE>

Eh, nothing like the half *** way of doin it, eh?

Unless ur running above stock fuel prssure, I wouldn't jsut turn the fuel pressure down and hope it stops backfiring...

it probably has something to do with teh FPR though, it is probably set too high

PS:
When you post a problem, dont' wait until 10 horus later to include the rest of ur setup, why don't you tell everybody that ur running an aftermarket FPR the first time? I can't stand when people ask for help and only include half the facts...

racin_fool

alright.. well you want all the details of my setup, then here it goes...

96 b18c1 with .025 overbored CTR pistons, VAFCII, stock gsr head, stock gsr cams, blox intake, AEM afpr, regular NGK plugs, DC 4-1 header, generic short ram intake, jdm p73 ecu with an Si harness and an Endyne breather setup. I am not for sure on the harness since this was something my brother did when he owned it before I bought it. Also, this setup ran just fine before the engine rebuild for the past 2 years or so. The short block has roughly 400 miles on it after the rebuild where everything was balanced with a new Exedy clutch and Fidanza Flywheel. The NGK plugs have as many miles as the shortblock after installing them when I rebuilt the engine. The NGK plug wires have about 10,000 miles on them if that, and the distributor cap and rotor both have about 5-6,000 miles on them if that and still look to be in good working order and not burnt. As for the ignitor and coil in the distributor, I have no idea on the amount of mileage on them.

Alright, so back to the car. The ecu is not throwing a CEL even when it is stuttering and hesitating during accel or decel where it sometimes apparently is shooting flames.

Today after work, I made sure the timing marks all lined up, ensured the valves were adjusted correctly .006" intake and .008" exhaust, re-gapped the spark plugs to .040", and finally adjusted the fuel pressure from where it was set at 53psi with the vacuum disconnected to 44psi again with the vacuum disconnected. I also put a timing light on it and made sure that it was lining up with the red mark on the crank pulley and the mark on the timing cover.

After reassembling the engine it was throwing a CEL for a coolant temp sensor where I had incorrectly plugged in the VTEC oil pressure sensor and the coolant temp sensor. That was corrected and shortly after doing so, that is when it started acting up. For those about to flame me on plugging **** in wrong, yes I should have marked stuff before disconnecting it all and taking out the engine, but again that is where my brother had reconfigured the harness to not make the green plug match up to where it would originally go. As for what he says, the jdm ecu doesnt look for a vtec oil pressure sensor signal so he used it to plug into the intake air temp sensor located on the runner of the blox intake.

Alright, I am thinking it has to do with something electrical and possibly either the ignitor or the coil in the distributor since it will not do it when at idle and will not start it until the car warms up and the underhood temps go up.

That is all I know so far. I am going to see if I can find another coil and ignitor and see if that solves it, but thats is everything I know so far.

racin_fool

Well, another coil didnt help any.. maybe a touch, but not much if any.. going to see if I can find a spare ignitor laying around or here locally and try that in the next day or so..

Russ713

iTrader: (1)

ignitors are notorious for going out and a sign is that they act up when warm. See if you can borrow someone else's distributor/ignitor and try it out to see if there's a change.

BuiltforSin

my car pops and gurgles sometimes. expletive it. it back fired on me one time a long long time ago in a galaxy far away. it never started gurglin though till i got exhaust.

racin_fool

if they are so notorious for going out, then why in the hell do they cost so much from Honda.. haha.. $160 a pop isnt so fun...

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racin_fool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if they are so notorious for going out, then why in the hell do they cost so much from Honda.. haha.. $160 a pop isnt so fun... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Because they know people with more brains than money will try to buy an OEM distributor directly from Honda..

Get one at autozone, I can almost guarantee it's cheaper (everything else is cheaper O2 sensors, plugs, wies, etc.) at autozone....

Except for my GTI VR6

Yeah, they have a rediculous wire policy in the lines of: You need a special tool to put the plug wires on (supposedly located in your tool kit where the jack is 'n ****) and they do NOT sell plug wire sets!!! No, they only sell each wire indidually, they're $26 a piece OEM which is always cheaper than autozone (VW parts are maddd cheaper OEM then from autozone) but then again when u pull the CEL for a misfire it tells u what cylinder it's in so you should only have to replace one at a time...but I don't like to do that..when I get the $ and the apathy goes away I'll have to replace all 6 :-\

Such bullshit..

racin_fool

so what part are you looking for from autozone? i actually thought about it earlier and looked around on their site, but what the hell would they call the ignitor? maybe the ignition control module????

also, does anyone know if it is possible to replace the inner shaft seal for the distributor on a 96 gsr?

racin_fool

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Russ713 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ignitors are notorious for going out and a sign is that they act up when warm. See if you can borrow someone else's distributor/ignitor and try it out to see if there's a change.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, found an ignitor to try out and I'm still getting the same problem... car runs fine until I get on the freeway and start cruising.. from there I start feeling it hesitate and then it starts missing and backfiring when I start to decel in gear..

It feels like its getting worse each day, so I am going to get a few new coolant sensors for the side of the head and the one on the thermostat neck and give that a try..

racin_fool

well it finally threw a check engine light today on the way to work. Found it throwing code 7 for a TPS...

Well, I'll have a new one Thursday and go from there.. nothing else has seemed to work yet..